Clamp-Style Battery Terminal Questions

[Wackyrig1]

I’m new to these boards, and not electrically or mechanically inclined. I saw on another board a bunch of knowledgeable members suggesting to use a clamp-style battery terminals to get the best connection for your cranking motor. The clamps should be either tinned or brass and stainless lock nuts should be used on the threaded part. I know the non threaded studs on my Odyssey battery are not really a cylinder shape but rather a truncated cone. Not sure if all marine batteries are like this. Would the clamp on such a shape still be a better connection than just using the exiting threaded posts on the battery itself? Also, the positive stud is a bit bigger than the negative, so should I be getting two different sizes of claim-style terminals, or is one good enough? Finally, I’m not sure of what the term “tinned” means. Is it the same a zinc plated?

[fishnfireman]

Even automotive batteries have a truncated cone. From what I've been told the post on most duel outlet batteries is stronger and due to its location and size is capable of delivering a larger amount of current.. Yes some have two different sizes.
Tinned copper wire is a type of copper wire coated in a thin layer of tin to protect the copper from corrosion that would decrease the wire’s efficiency in humid or rainy climates, high-heat environments and in certain types of soil.

[CatFan]

The important part of a high current connection is surface area of the connection. For threaded terminals, the base of the terminals is the biggest area, so you need a large ring terminal solidly pressed against that base. With the post terminal, you generally have an easier time getting that large area. If you just use a standard nut on on a ring terminal, only the area under the nut has a good connection.

[billnorman1]

Congratulations, I believe you are the first person to use truncated here in a sentence.

In my humble opinion, OPINION, you will get a satisfactory connection using the threaded studs on your battery with proper hardware. I use a stainless lockwasher under the bottom terminal lug, then install the largest terminal lug, which is most likely the starter lead, then any other necessary leads and then if there is enough room, another lock washer and then a nylon insert stainless nut.

An alternate system could be to use the threaded stud for all the small wires. A clamp style terminal connector for the starter wires, then use the stud, a lock washer, and then a locking nut. I think this is a bit too involved, usually the simplest way is the best way.

[mikesxpress]

For utilization of the posts in addition to the studs.
http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/Ba...inal%20kit.htm

ABYC 11.14.4.1.10 No more than four terminals shall be secured to any one terminal stud.
If you’re installing more than one ring terminal onto a stud, the largest and therefore highest ampacity terminal should be installed first, with successively smaller and lower-ampacity terminals installed afterward (11.14.4.1.10.1)

I moved all but a couple rings (engine cranking & charger) off my cranking battery and installed remote terminal studs

[catdude28]

Wackyrig, just go to Canadian Tire and get a set of these marine battery terminals that you can snug up to the posts. I have done this before.

If I remember correctly, the reason Don Weed does not like the use of the screw terminals on a battery is because there is a tendency to overtighten them. Over time, this can loosen the connection inside the battery, and lead to voltage loss and problems. I know he has seen this in his shop.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...?rrec=true#spc

[Wackyrig1]

Thanks for the feedback guys.

[leonreno]

Congratulations, I believe you are the first person to use truncated here in a sentence.

In my humble opinion, OPINION, you will get a satisfactory connection using the threaded studs on your battery with proper hardware. I use a stainless lockwasher under the bottom terminal lug, then install the largest terminal lug, which is most likely the starter lead, then any other necessary leads and then if there is enough room, another lock washer and then a nylon insert stainless nut.

An alternate system could be to use the threaded stud for all the small wires. A clamp style terminal connector for the starter wires, then use the stud, a lock washer, and then a locking nut. I think this is a bit too involved, usually the simplest way is the best way.

I don’t understand why the lock washers on the post under or over the lug/ring terminals? You want the bottom lug to contact the bottom base plate of the post for the most surface area. It’s the large surface area on the flat base that transmits most of the electrical current, not the post itself. The lock washers would just hold the lugs of the bottom plate and reduce conductivity, plus stainless steel is a poor conductor of electricity. I think you would get better performance by just putting the lugs directly on the post as stated by the ABYC standards and use the SS nylock nut on top.

[RGK456]

If you use the screw terminals, get you a torque wrench with the proper in-lbs scaling and make sure you do not over torque the terminals. I used nylon nuts and torqued to the proper value, Deka's recommendation..............

[bhjr.]

Threaded post batteries are used in the trucking industry in almost all newer trucks, and there is much more amperage demand in turning a big diesel engine over!

[bobcoy]

There is a bunch of good information here. The 2 terminal/marine battery is setup the way it is to hook the tapered connectors from the motor and a couple ring terminals on the threaded post going to breakers then to terminal strips or terminal distribution blocks. To the OP, if you are not well versed on marine electrical wiring have someone do it that has experience and has the correct tools and supplies to do it. Like your home or car wiring. Not the thing the average DIYer should take on. JMO Bob

[catdude28]

If you use the screw terminals, get you a torque wrench with the proper in-lbs scaling and make sure you do not over torque the terminals. I used nylon nuts and torqued to the proper value, Deka's recommendation..............

Correct, but most don't use a torque wrench. They just get on and torque the hell out of them with a standard ratchet, which, over time, can loosen the threaded terminal inside the battery. That is why I can understand Don Weed's recommendation.

[fishnfireman]

Another thing I learned the hard way that Don recommends.. Check your nuts for burrs on a test bolt and inspect the terminal by carefully running a nut full length before attaching terminals...A good thing to do anytime your using SS. Especially with SS battery terminals.
You gall a nut on a terminal and it will twist off inside. Unless you cut the nut off----A dremmel will work

[bhjr.]

Any time I'm tightening threaded terminals I prefer to use lock washers, not lock nuts. Lock nuts give you no feel as when to stop tightening. Lock washers provide continuous spring tension that lock nuts can't.

[bobcoy]

I got a torque wrench in inch pounds. The batteries with metric terminals(M10) specifies the max torque. It was rebuilt and was about $20. I have seen lower quality at some auto parts stores. I had 8 terminals and am glad I had it. Max was 95"pounds. A wrench with foot pounds is not that delicate. That is less than 8 foot pounds!

[billnorman1]

I don’t understand why the lock washers on the post under or over the lug/ring terminals? You want the bottom lug to contact the bottom base plate of the post for the most surface area. It’s the large surface area on the flat base that transmits most of the electrical current, not the post itself. The lock washers would just hold the lugs of the bottom plate and reduce conductivity, plus stainless steel is a poor conductor of electricity. I think you would get better performance by just putting the lugs directly on the post as stated by the ABYC standards and use the SS nylock nut on top.

I agree the flat surface probably is the major conductor.
A SS lock washer bites a tiny bit into the flat surface of the lead on the battery and also slightly into the ring terminal. Kind of gets "virgin territory". That's how I do mine, and I don't always recommend nylon locking nuts unless you know the feel it should have when tight.
Many lock nuts come from China, when I was in electronics manufacturing, new nylon insert nuts sometimes snapped studs off due to improper materials or tolerances in their nylon inserts. Standard practice was to run them up and down a standard stud once or twice to set the insert properly, then put them on the finished hardware.
Mine seem to work well with my method. I use standard stainless nuts, I like to be able to spin them on and off once loosened.

[bobcoy]

A split washer(lock washer) would have better contact as most of the lithium and other types don't use batteries with lead threaded posts. In fact for the last 10 years my marine batteries (2 posts) came with lock washers in the parts bag.