Having issues with voltage drop on my graphs. Lookin for some insight on how you all are wiring your HB graphs. Im having enough drop to lose network connection. I see things like the sea clear wire harness for like over 200 bucks to straight wire your power to your graphs and I get it but damn thats #8 wire! Really?? That can carry like 40 amps. Why would I need that size wire is beyond me for a graph with a 7.5 inline fuse. Brand new 721 btw. Thanks!
I run my Helix units on 12 gauge straight to the battery with an inline fuse and never have an issue. I believe that will be adequate for Solix units, but 10 gauge may be better. If I did it over again, I would just get one of those harnesses. I'm not great at electrical work, and I had to borrow the tools. Just seems easier to buy the harness.
It has 10 ran already but not home runs. I think I will run some #8 AWG to each unit and fuse them at battery and be done. Those 300 dollar harnesses are way over priced. 50' two conductor awg in 8 on amazon 85 bucks and some good connectors with heat shrink should be plenty good.
I don’t know if this is an option for you but I to have a 721 and put a dedicated battery (lithium) in the forward center compartment. I’m running a 16” graph on the bow and a 12” at the console with livescope (All battery alcoholics).Running 10 gage wire fused directly to battery. My longest run is 12’. Works great. Just a thought cause these new units as you well know are sensitive to everything and anything.
Marine grade wire is going to up the price a bit but your concern is not the amp carrying capacity of the wire, its the resistance in the wire. 10ga has 1.6 times the resistance of 8ga wire over the same length run
Fish have fins, they swim
^finally someone who knows a little about ohms law. You are correct, a bigger conductor will allow the voltage to flow more efficient.Originally Posted by PJ-Rohlf
It really as simple as good ol ohms law...when you have restriction in a circuit (smaller wire) its going to lose voltage. A bigger conductor (larger wire size but smaller AWG number) will let the voltage flow with more ease. I have a dedicated wire harness. I chose the Sonar Pro custom wire harness but that was my personal choice. Yes they are expensive, yes they do work and yes I could build one on my own for less money. I jokingly tell people my Sonar Pro wire harness is like the Jay-Z song 99 problems...I got 99 problems but voltage drop ain't one...
Also if you price out marine grade 8awg wire, it is around $1.50 a ft. For safety in having enough say a 25' run to the bow and a 15' run to the console, that's 40' x 2 wires each is 80' of wire. There's $120 in just wire. And that's using primary wire and not duplex to clean things up a bit. These harnesses are not that overpriced if you source the correct items for the job.
Fish have fins, they swim
Thread I posted on this last year . . .
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1052473
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2024 Phoenix 21 XE - Mercury 250 PRO XS Serial #3B429919
2017 Phoenix PHX 21 - Yamaha 250 SHO
2010 Skeeter 20i - Yamaha 250 SHO
1988 Procraft 1780 Competitor - Mercury 100
talk to trent palmer at sonar pros! He has the wiring harness you can buy from him or schedule an appointment for him to do it.
While the thought is correct here, voltage does not flow...current flows. Voltage is the potential between the two points. When guys look at some of these ampacity charts online I think they fail to consider all the variables that can impact what is on that chart. If your cables are a duplex (which by itself starts to lower the current carrying capabilities) coupled with routing in a conduit or closed wireway (also causes a de-rating) and then you throw in temperatures you can't control as well as sub-par connections all of a sudden 12 or even 10 gauge wire might not be enough. I agree 100% with what PJ said though, the harnesses are worth it if you don't already have the proper tools.^finally someone who knows a little about ohms law. You are correct, a bigger conductor will allow the voltage to flow more efficient.
It really as simple as good ol ohms law...when you have restriction in a circuit (smaller wire) its going to lose voltage. A bigger conductor (larger wire size but smaller AWG number) will let the voltage flow with more ease. I have a dedicated wire harness. I chose the Sonar Pro custom wire harness but that was my personal choice. Yes they are expensive, yes they do work and yes I could build one on my own for less money. I jokingly tell people my Sonar Pro wire harness is like the Jay-Z song 99 problems...I got 99 problems but voltage drop ain't one
2009 Triton 21X3 250 Mercury Optimax Pro XS
Minn Kota Fortrex 80
2 Lowrance HDS Live 12s at bow w/ Active Target
Lowrance HDS Carbon 9 and 12 at console
2 8' Power Pole Pro Series
Seaclear recent install on my 920 running Carbon 12 at the console with another at the bow underneath a Helix 12 with Mega 360. No more flashing when I start the SHO from the console and great voltage on all three all the time. I’ve seen posts basically saying I was foolish to spend so much on a wire and do the “hard part” myself..............I’m a fool who doesn’t worry about voltage drop anymore and fortunately I can still pay my other bills. �� For the life of me I can’t figure out why so many people on here are worried about other people’s bank accounts and spending choices. I’m a fan of Seaclear at this point.
2014 920/SHO
Bought 50' of marine grade 8 AWG, heat shrink connectors and 8 awg marine rated inline ATO fuse holders and ran a Homerun for both units to the disconnect. Everything turned out great. Wire was around 80 bucks and spent probably 18 bucks on the fuse holders and maybe 25 on more than enough connectors having to buy a minimum. Have around 130 in it with wire and connectors to spare. It all turned out well at less than Half the cost of a premade harness. Pretty sure anyone with a few tools and heat gun could do without issue. Both units hold network and show good voltage for hours.
Ask Wayne in the Humminbird thread. Guy knows everything on them. If I remember correctly he said the birds are sensitive to voltage drop so advised to run 10 and did home runs from the battery with an inline fuse. I run a g3n mega+ 12 si/di up front and 10 at console and now issues
Meant I have NO issues
https://www.precisionsonar.com/produ...wiring-harness
Check out this dedicated wiring harness for your electronics.
You must also take length into the equation of voltage drop. You should research 12 vdc wire chart. It'll give you voltage drop at certain amp draw at certain footage! The length of wire is from the source (battery) to the load (graphs). Make sure to note not all wire is equal, some will handle more current, some less!
2014 Phoenix 721XP, 250 SHO, Bobs Action Jack, Dual Blades, 112 Ultrex, 2019 Lariat FX4 F150 Supercrew 4x4
The humminbird manual gives you options on how to provide power . It also recommends Marine Wiring gauges. I have a 2020 721 and I added a Fuse Panel with integrated ground bus that is mounted inside the starboard rod locker on the removable panel in front of the driver's console. Phoenix also offers a wiring upgrade that includes this, but it's optional on the 721. I ran 8 gauge Marine wiring from the battery to the new fuse panel and then I came out of the fuse panel with 10 gauge wire to my fish finders. At the battery, I protected my wiring with a 30 amp breaker and I swapped out the standard On/Off power switch in the bilge with a Dual Circuit On/Off switch. My power to the fuse block is cut-off every time I cut off power at this switch. I was realizing about 11.2 Volts at each unit prior to this upgrade and I'm about 12.5 volts (without motor running) after the upgrade. I was dropping to 10.7 volts when the motor cranked prior to the upgrade. I haven't seen it below 11.7 during cranking after the upgrade.
Mine has the wiring upgrade from Phoenix.
This is what I did with my Solid 15 and no issues at all.
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