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  1. #1
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    Questions for rewiring new electronics

    I am installing new wiring for new beefier electronics. 10ga wire from the battery to a Blue Seas fuse block (under console or rod locker). 14ga wire from fuse block to Carbons x 3. I thought it would be as easy as tracing the existing power cables back to a positive and negative source under the console .. but nothing is labeled and it looks like a ball of yarn. So .. I have 2 questions.
    1) Do I need to trace the GPS power cables back to their origin under the console for a clean removal/repair .. or can I simply cut 1-2ft from the Carbon connector, add new wiring and cap off the old wire and leave in place? Leaving the old wiring would be easier .. but I don't know if any of the old wiring is T'd and "sharing" with anything else.
    2) Do I need to move my NMEA 2000 power to the new fuse block as well? While both systems (new harness and stock harness) will be running parallel off the same battery .. I don't know if it is OK to have the Carbons connected to a power source through a new harness and the NMEA 2000 through the original.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thnx.

  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    I would run all of the electronics through the fuse block. Voltages will be the same everywhere with no ground currents or other stray sources of noise. Trace them all out, clean it up and do it right, or eventually you will cuss yourself as you try to find a problem on the water and can’t follow the wires.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  3. Member
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    #3
    Good point. I didn't even think of potential noise/interference from the old wiring. Thnx.

  4. LDraper
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    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    I would run all of the electronics through the fuse block. Voltages will be the same everywhere with no ground currents or other stray sources of noise. Trace them all out, clean it up and do it right, or eventually you will cuss yourself as you try to find a problem on the water and can’t follow the wires.
    CatFan...you seem to be DA MAN when it comes to wiring...so, see if I am on the correct path.

    I have a situation very similar to this. Let me see if I can explain this easily enough:

    Current trolling motor wire is 8 gauge direct from battery. I am replacing that with 6 gauge harness that I ordered from BestBoatWire.com.

    I am wanting to then take the existing 8 gauge wire and run it to a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block that I added last year. I admit, looking back now I used the wrong gauge wire to the fuse panel and I used just regular automotive wire. Would the 8 gauge wire to that fuse box be too much? From that fuse box I had planned on running new 12 or 14 gauge wires to my units, unless the factory harness is long enough, and then I will just wire direct to the fuse box.

    Thanks in advance!

  5. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by LDraper View Post
    CatFan...you seem to be DA MAN when it comes to wiring...so, see if I am on the correct path.

    I have a situation very similar to this. Let me see if I can explain this easily enough:

    Current trolling motor wire is 8 gauge direct from battery. I am replacing that with 6 gauge harness that I ordered from BestBoatWire.com.

    I am wanting to then take the existing 8 gauge wire and run it to a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block that I added last year. I admit, looking back now I used the wrong gauge wire to the fuse panel and I used just regular automotive wire. Would the 8 gauge wire to that fuse box be too much? From that fuse box I had planned on running new 12 or 14 gauge wires to my units, unless the factory harness is long enough, and then I will just wire direct to the fuse box.

    Thanks in advance!
    The only way it can be too much is if it won’t work for the wiring connections you need to make.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  6. Member
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    #6
    I have redone dozens of rigs over the last few years. If the boat does not already have a cut off switch to connect new fuse panel to I install one. I use 6 gauge wire for connections between battery and switch and than switch to fuse panel. I than use all 10 gauge marine wire for anything that gets connected to fuse panel. Everything will get its own set of 10g wire. Yes 10g is a bit of overkill for each item but it is piece of mind and never have to worry again.

  7. LDraper
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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Hookerz Tackle View Post
    I have redone dozens of rigs over the last few years. If the boat does not already have a cut off switch to connect new fuse panel to I install one. I use 6 gauge wire for connections between battery and switch and than switch to fuse panel. I than use all 10 gauge marine wire for anything that gets connected to fuse panel. Everything will get its own set of 10g wire. Yes 10g is a bit of overkill for each item but it is piece of mind and never have to worry again.
    Yes sir...I already have a switch on my fuse panel.

  8. Banned
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    #8
    Why fuse panels vs. breakers? Just cost?

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by brimster View Post
    Why fuse panels vs. breakers? Just cost?
    One centrally located fuse panel with all the proper fuses reduces connectors and clutter.

  10. Banned
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    #10
    Right. I get the benefit of the central panel. I was asking why folks opt for fuses vs. breakers in that panel. My guess is that cost is the driver. But I might be wrong. I'm wrong a lot. I'm married.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Cost is a factor .. but also .. I don't think they make 1, 3 and 5 Amp breakers (may be wrong on that). The 6 circuit fuse block easily accepts the lower amp blade fuses provided with each graph/ gps. I do use a 15 Amp breaker between the battery and the fuse block.

  12. Banned
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    #12
    Ahhh... The amperages aren't low enough... My problem has been the opposite. I'm looking for a block that will go from those lower amperages up to 40A for my Power Poles (each). I can find LOTS that will do 30A per circuit. But nothing that will allow for 40A. Any recommendations? My Ranger has all in-line fuses. They do the job. But they're a tangled mess. I'm visualizing installing blocks under the bow, at the console and in the bilge - each with low gauge "home runs" to the battery switch (positive) and battery (negative). Would that be the play?

  13. Member
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    #13
    I'm not real savvy with electrical issues .. so I'll let someone more knowledgeable answer that. I'm just adding new electronics and putting them on their own circuit .. separate from the lights, bilge pumps, livewell pumps etc.

  14. Member
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    #14
    These are the panel I used in my boat project. I know every one uses bluesea panels but I dont like the fact that bluesea is not really water tight. The bussmans below are a lot more involved a far as wiring goes but i think are a nicer product.

    https://www.waytekwire.com/item/4634...TMR-Mini-Fuse/

    https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...I-Manual-Reset - These are resetable fuse/breakers in the 280 style

    https://www.waytekwire.com/products/...et&pageSize=36 - These are resetable and will work with bluesea panels.

  15. Member
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    #15
    Thnx Slim95. This is a great option. I didn't know that they made resetable fuse/breakers in the low Amp ratings. Price is right also.

  16. Banned
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    #16
    Trying to visualize how you wire the Bussman panels. Are you cutting a rectangle in your fiberglass, running the wiring behind and the flush mounting the panel? Also, it seems like the cover is unnecessarily bulky. Was looking for some sort of an install manual but didn't see anything.

  17. Member
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    #17
    My bussman panel is in the bilge area. My triton came with an aluminum panel that covers all the pumps, so i cut a square hole in the panel and mounted the bussman. they make two different size covers, a large one to accommodate the taller breaker fuses and a shallower one for just standard fuses

    https://www.waytekwire.com/datasheet/46343.pdf

    Another nice feature with the bussmans is they offer different options on having integrated buss bars built into the PDM for multiple grounding and hots sides. It definitely take a lot more planning and thinking ahead to to use it to the full extent but if that isnt a problem they these are the most cost effective way i believe to wire it up without spending a lot more money on a fuseless CANopen PDM system

  18. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Hookerz Tackle View Post
    I have redone dozens of rigs over the last few years. If the boat does not already have a cut off switch to connect new fuse panel to I install one. I use 6 gauge wire for connections between battery and switch and than switch to fuse panel. I than use all 10 gauge marine wire for anything that gets connected to fuse panel. Everything will get its own set of 10g wire. Yes 10g is a bit of overkill for each item but it is piece of mind and never have to worry again.

    how are you connecting the 10ga to the much smaller graph power cables?
    Nitro z21