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  1. #1
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    2008 225 Optimax DTS questions and rebuild thread

    Hey y'all

    I have a few questions about my 2008 DTS 225 Optimax. The boat is new to me, and the motor has around 550 hours on it and looks to be in great condition, its run well the few times I was able to use the boat before shipping out. I am back now and looking to start fixing up the boat and redoing some of the mistakes/broken pieces I have found in the rigging.

    The first big issue is that the previous owner had two smaller batteries rigged up, and the engine wouldn't start unless the battery switch was in the all position. From reading on this board I now know that the batteries are too small. My plan is to move the battery location from the stbd side stern to the center console. I plan to run one starting battery and one house battery, both group 31, and put in a proper ACR. That project is a few months away though and I am sure I will have more questions as I get closer to pulling the trigger on parts. The previous owner even had the alternator blow out on him and had a new OEM one just put in, (due to the battery setup I'm guessing) so I want to make sure I preserve that new part and get the boat wired correctly.

    The second big issue I want to address is the DTS controls. They took some getting used to at first but I love the ease of operation, its my first time using digital controls in a boat. That being said, the controls are in rough shape, ill try and add photos later, but the controls are the older style, with the long T handle at the top, and all Chrome. The previous owner did not take care of this boat at all (I knew that going in it was going to be a bit of a project) and the chrome is coming off in big sharp chips, not only does that mean that it looks terrible, it also is an annoyance to constantly be worried about slicing my hand open on the chipped chrome. Also the control seems super loose, as in there Is no friction, if you breath on it, it will flop into gear, with no noticeable "stop" for just clutched in forward or reverse, meaning you have to listen for the motor to engage and then you know you are in gear...... All that being said, I would just like to replace the whole control. I have spent hours trying to find replacement parts for the unit I have, and didn't like the price or the availability.

    So what are my options? I have looked into Livorsi controls, and they are super nice, reasonably priced, but I'm not 100% on going to the two stick setup. Do the new generation Mercury DTS controls work with my older motor and rigging? I love how they look, and while way more expensive, it would be nice to stick with the single stick. I don't really mind going with the twin stick livorsi, as the hull is a bit of a go fast design, but I just prefer the look and feel of the new generation DTS controls. Are there any other brands the are plug and play with the DTS rigging? It's been hard to find any info on this online, it seems not many people have this problem haha (I did think it was odd that the control unit was in such bad shape).

    Any help with this control issue would be much appreciated. I will be updating this thread as I go with pictures and questions. Phase one for this boat for this year is to just get it mechanically and electrically sound, and then ideally next year repaint it.

  2. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #2
    If your would, please take a moment to review the Announcements at the top of the Forum, and be sure to provide the Required info (serial number) when posting. Thanks!

    You need to stick with MERCURY DTS controls. You can utilize any of the DTS control assemblies up to (and including) CURRENT production as of 1/1/21.

    Rigging components are not "cookie-cutter and engine specific", so it's actually in the consumer's best interest to enlist the assistance of a qualified tech (or sales department) when attempting to replace these devices.

    Additionally, when replacing the control(s), it will be necessary to have the G3-CDS connected and the Helm/Controls will need to be ADAPTED again (setup to work properly together, with this engine). This is also an opportune time to have the Command Module's program updated to the latest/greatest version.

    If you drop our Parts Department an email with a picture of your current controls, they can assist you with alternatives. See Rhonda's post, pinned at the top of the Forum for contact info.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  3. Member
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    #3
    So I did read the rules, but unfortunately my boat is in Florida right now and I am in New York and I don't have a picture of the serial number. But when I go down to pick the boat back up I will update with that.

    Okay I don't live anywhere near you guys, but is that something we can do over the phone, in terms of ordering the new generation of controls? (providing I supply pictures and the serial numbers, etc.) I did read about them needing to be programed and would have to find a dealer by me with the technology to do so. I more so was just asking if it was possible, rather than how to do it haha. Thanks for the response though!

  4. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #4
    Utilizing pictures and the engine's serial number, we can absolutely assist you with the components (and/or installation questions).


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

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