What is causing my oil to do this?

[Zetabait]

This issue apparantly has Yamaha and my local mechanic scratching their heads? To me, this looks like moisture getting in the oil.
SPECIFICS: 2013 225 SHO, 541 hrs, ring free used with every tank, only ethanol free fuel used. replaced oil filter and put in new oil 3 months ago, Yamalube 4 stroke 10W-30.
Compression test checked out fine on all cylinders, and a leak down test revealed no issues. Motor hooked up to computer while running WOT and no error codes. The oil in the fill tube and on the cap has the consistency of mayonaisse.

Photos show looking down into the oil fill tube and the "mayonaisse crud" on the cap.





Anyone ever seen this or have any insight? I feel like I'm running a ticking time bomb. Thanks!

[tlefire]

What did the oil look like when you drained it?

[FES313]

I would say that you have water in your oil. I would not run that!! Could be any thing from a bad head gasket to a cracked block.

[Zetabait]

The oil was black when I drained it. Definitely not milky colored.

[5 Alive]

I would say that you have water in your oil.

+1

[javelin90]

Either the head has a small crack or the head gasket is failing 4stroke just like car engine when you see water mixing with the oil.

[Tromanoski]

I had just a little bit of something similar on the end of the oil drain plug when I changed the oil on my F 150. Nothing like that on the dip stick or the oil fill plug like you are showing. I had no water in the oil either when I changed it. Maybe send the pictures to Yamaha if you or your mechanic have not already done so.

[Zetabait]

I had just a little bit of something similar on the end of the oil drain plug when I changed the oil on my F 150. Nothing like that on the dip stick or the oil fill plug like you are showing. I had no water in the oil either when I changed it. Maybe send the pictures to Yamaha if you or your mechanic have not already done so.

Not yet, but I plan to ASAP! I thought a compression and leak down test would have identified the issue?

[Rick H]

Use to see that in customer vehicles in the winter time when they didn't run them long enough to get them good and warm to burn off the condensation that is created every time you start a cold motor. Seems to build up in the top of the engines. Good oil running out the bottom and milk shake under the fill cap.

Make sure once you start any motor it better to make sure its brought full temperature for at least 30 minutes from cold start is the best way to keep that in check. On cooler days get to your spot and let it idle for 30 min. then just keep that in mind the rest of the day depending on how long you fish a spot.

[FES313]

Not yet, but I plan to ASAP! I thought a compression and leak down test would have identified the issue?

There are oil and water ports through out and could have a leak that does not affect a compression test

[tracer1]

If you find out what is causing it, please post the results. Getting to where I have a panic attack every time I look on this forum.

[Rick H]

If there was water in the oil it would have came out with the oil when the drain plug is removed. Correct "compression and leak down test " would only be checking condition of the cylinders, pistons, rings, valves and combustion chambers.

The key info you supplied was the condition of the oil drained out. I don't believe you have much of a problem other than making sure the motor when started is fully warmed up to burn of the condensation that is created in a 4stroke engine when things are warmed up during cooler times.

[Mike A]

Looks EXACTLY like mine did as result of a cracked head. Ended up warranty replaced by Yamaha. There’s more “frothing” there than I believe can be attributed to condensation. Does it blow white smoke when you start it?

[Rick H]

Looks EXACTLY like mine did as result of a cracked head. Ended up warranty replaced by Yamaha. There’s more “frothing” there than I believe can be attributed to condensation. Does it blow white smoke when you start it?

Why is the drained oil clear of water?

[ClarkBird]

That motor needs some rpm therapy.

[Mike A]

Why is the drained oil clear of water?

No idea. Not a chemist or a mechanic. Internal engine heat and circulation though is going to have an effect once the oil and water come in contact which IS NOT supposed to happen. There was no “water” that drained outta mine. They had mixed into one oily paste.

[BassinLA13]

Ugh ... that looks exactly like my oil filler cap after my 2011 225 blew a plume of white smoke (think dragster wheelie burn out) up on Clear Lake. The dipstick showed clean (dark clear) oil for about two more trips before going milky and after a leak down / compression test showed nothing ... a more thorough Yamaha suggested test revealed a cracked cylinder head. No love from Yamaha as I was the 3rd owner & it was the 2nd powerhead (2015).

Regardless of what folks here say about condensation ... four strokes ... cold mornings ... something ain't right with your SHO.

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[Zetabait]

Appreciate the replies and good info to consider. I’m gonna contact Yamaha tomorrow and see where I get.

[yam911]

With infrequent use, my Ford F150 oil cap looks the same. Moreso when the weather is damp and cold.

[jtracc]

That motor needs some rpm therapy.

its this... I have same issue with my Polaris ranger utv. I don't run it hard enough and condensation builds up. We use it more like a glorified golf cart then an off road atv. Trying running the outboard harder, at wide open throttle but let it cool down. It should solve the problem over some time.