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  1. Member
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    #21
    dont know much about the remote drain plug but what i have found out with other flow rite products is you want the least amount of bends in the cable as possible.the more bends means more restrictions which makes the switch itself harder to turn.too much pressure on the switch will bend the wire inside the cable.as others have said keeping it well lubricated is probably a must.i would say they sell a ton of replacement parts especially for the livewell and pump out systems.
    keep working,your neighbor thanks you

  2. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #22
    The seal on the plug is nothing more than an o-ring. It needs to be lubed occasionally to operate correctly. However, some lubes will cause swelling to some o-ring compositions . Mine is getting a little hard to close so I'm probably going to change out the o-ring in the near future. I'm going to try an o-ring intended to be used in automotive a/c systems as I think these are more resistant to swelling and a little softer compound than the ones used by the OEM. I'll update later with my results and conclusion.

  3. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #23
    itsahog.....Where is it installed?

  4. Member skeeterator's Avatar
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    #24
    Just received mine from TW this week, will install it some weekend soon. Tired of getting down on the ground every trip. I bought the 10 footer so I can open and close it from the drivers seat.

  5. Member
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    #25
    Quote Originally Posted by tracer1 View Post
    ... I now spray mine with silicone lubricant every time I use it. ...
    A schmear of silicone faucet grease is good for 1/2 a season. http://

  6. Member
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by tracer1 View Post
    itsahog.....Where is it installed?
    The control is mounted on the port side on the Stern, mounted on the side of what I would call the splash well. When I move to the closed position, it moves freely at first but then I really need to torque on it -and you can feel it moves a little more, but I can tell if I continue to use that much force something is going to give. So currently I just move it as far as it goes freely, and then I just tap to plug the rest of the way to seat. I always forget about it until I’m getting ready to fish when I’m leaving the shop, I need to look closer I guess. I was just wondering if anybody else had a similar problem that knew the fix. been like this since new, boat is a little over a year old.

  7. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #27
    As already mentioned it might be from a hard bend in the cable.. If there like the livewell control there not the best to start with IMO.
    Sure defeats the purpose when you have to get down and tap it in.. Good luck.

  8. Member
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    #28
    This is probably an obvious question, but can the cable will be cut to length and reattached to the control handle? this is assuming once I check it is too long and has excessive bends.

  9. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #29
    . Hope this link works. This is Zell Rowland showing how to open & close the flow rite drain plug. Itsahog, watch the video & see if this is how you are closing the drain plug. What's happening is the handle, when you close it to "IN" is only bringing the O-ring to the plug hole but not seating the O- ring as it should. That little extra twist is to completely seat it. If it was made so that the O-ring just went in easy, it would probably leak and not work as it should. So many guys make the mistake of not giving it that extra little turn when they close it. It's not really closed although they think it is. It leaks & it's a "PITA". So make sure you are closing it like this. If it take more than a little effort it may also have a bent cable or if the splash well wall may be too thick for it to recess like it should, it will bind also. Hope this helps
    Last edited by tracer1; 01-16-2021 at 01:57 PM.

  10. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by itsahog View Post
    This is probably an obvious question, but can the cable will be cut to length and reattached to the control handle? this is assuming once I check it is too long and has excessive bends.
    Not the ones I've seen, they have the barrel stop made into the outer jacket on each end, You can order different lengths. I figure even if you straighten it from being a bad bend. Odds are the inner cable has eaten into the cover from the inside.. The ones I've seen don't have the good coiled stainless steel jacket- its plastic.

  11. Member
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    #31
    Quote Originally Posted by tracer1 View Post
    . Hope this link works. This is Zell Rowland showing how to open & close the flow rite drain plug. Itsahog, watch the video & see if this is how you are closing the drain plug. What's happening is the handle, when you close it to "IN" is only bringing the O-ring to the plug hole but not seating the O- ring as it should. That little extra twist is to completely seat it. If it was made so that the O-ring just went in easy, it would probably leak and not work as it should. So many guys make the mistake of not giving it that extra little turn when they close it. It's not really closed although they think it is. It leaks & it's a "PITA". So make sure you are closing it like this. If it take more than a little effort it may also have a bent cable or if the splash well wall may be too thick for it to recess like it should, it will bind also. Hope this helps
    Thanks for that link, that looks identical to mine. Mine does operate the same way, but I have to get pretty western with it for the last park to suck it up, I need to check my cable and see if there’s some kind of kink. It does operate that way, but mine has an obvious much tougher time seating at the end. Hard enough to where I have to deliberately do it and feel like I’m right on the edge of bending or breaking something. Thanks again for posting that.

  12. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by itsahog View Post
    Thanks for that link, that looks identical to mine. Mine does operate the same way, but I have to get pretty western with it for the last park to suck it up, I need to check my cable and see if there’s some kind of kink. It does operate that way, but mine has an obvious much tougher time seating at the end. Hard enough to where I have to deliberately do it and feel like I’m right on the edge of bending or breaking something. Thanks again for posting that.
    I had one of there livewell controls that just kept getting worse until I broke the little handle off..

  13. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #33
    Make sure it's lubricated really good. I use silicone but they're of other lubricants that are good also. Yeah, you should just have to give a little push just with your thumb. You shouldn't have to push so hard to break the handle off as fishnfireman did. I know it's a pain to remove and check the cable but that would be my final step to check the cable if it is defective. It should be routed where there are no tight bends to the cable at all. If there is a flaw in the cable you should feel it also when you turn the handle to "out". I don't know if the OP (dbs1) ever found the problem with his.

  14. Moderator Mark Perry's Avatar
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    #34
    I really like mine.

  15. Member
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    #35
    Sure beats getting on knees in a gravel lot! Lol. I like mine.

  16. Member bhjr.'s Avatar
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    #36
    Changed my o-ring out yesterday and it closes much easier now, like it did when it was new! Also noticed that the silicone grease I use had held a little debris possibly causing some interference with closing, so maybe just washing the plug and port off with warm water might also help.

  17. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #37
    Quote Originally Posted by bhjr. View Post
    Changed my o-ring out yesterday and it closes much easier now, like it did when it was new! Also noticed that the silicone grease I use had held a little debris possibly causing some interference with closing, so maybe just washing the plug and port off with warm water might also help.
    I keep mine closed when trailering & even in the garage for that very reason.

  18. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #38
    itsahog.....if you take the control face from the splash well, you should be able to check your cable from there. If you disconnect the cable, you should be able to slide the cable back & forth smoothly. If it has a kink you can tell that way.

  19. Member Bassman Ia.'s Avatar
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by BigFishSteve View Post
    If inserting a regular drain plug was just too much work.............well................
    When I was a young feller around 60 years old, putting a drain plug in, jumping from the boat UP onto a dock, even jumping off a tailgate were easy. 10 years later, held together with titanium rods and screws nothing is easy, some days even fishing is tough.
    Someday You may have to eat those words

  20. Member
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    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by tracer1 View Post
    You guys may be doing this with the plug, don't know if this may be the problem. When I first installed mine it didn't seal completely. Come to find out, you have to turn the closing handle a little more to get it completely closed. What was happening on mine when you turn the handle it was only to the O-ring seal and was not completely seated. So when you turn the handle to "close", give it a little more turn past the close stopping point for it to fully seat. And remember to keep it lubricated. I now spray mine with silicone lubricant every time I use it. You probably don't have to do this each time but that's just me. So far, 3 years & no problems.
    I’ve had one for a year now. Just decided yesterday to “find my slow leak”. Did the usual and filled the bilge with a little water. Sure enough, the remote plug had a leak. I pushed it in about 1/4” more, by hand, and the leak stopped. I then looked at the dial. And it was substantially more turned than I have been getting it. I now know that I have to really twist it to get it seated fully.

    duh.

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