Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 42
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    834

    Soldering trolling motor wire terminals - what type of solder and how?

    Got a new trolling motor and am prepping for installation. I have read that soldering the wires to the terminals is recommended due to vibration.

    What type of solder is needed? I see rosin core, plumbing, lead free, etc.

    What method is best for adhesion? Terminals have a small "cup" that wire sits in. Do I cut some solder, fill the "cup" halfway, hild the terminal with some pliers, heat the terminal end to melt the solder and insert the wire into the molten solder?

    Or do I insert the wire, crimp the heavy terminal and than add solder into/around the spaces?

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #2
    Where is it recommended to solder due to vibration?

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by zero_cool View Post
    What method is best for adhesion? Terminals have a small "cup" that wire sits in. Do I cut some solder, fill the "cup" halfway, hild the terminal with some pliers, heat the terminal end to melt the solder and insert the wire into the molten solder?
    Get off of Youtube! That is the ghetto way to make a "clean" looking joint that sucks.

    Get proper crimping tools for your sized wire and terminal. Use quality terminals, I have a mix of FTZ and NSPA that hold well. Oh, and get proper double wall marine adhesive heat shrink tubing.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    834
    #4
    So no need to solder them?

    That would make it easier.

    And yes, it was YouTube where the recommendation was from.

    Also, the installation manual for the TM says to "solder/crimp".

  5. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Lake Tapawingo, MO
    Posts
    1,274
    #5
    If you don't have the proper tools, or skills, to make 6 ga or so wire splices, you can order cables pre-made from several places. When I upgraded from 24 to 36v, I just ordered my jumpers pre-made. Need to be sure a quality supplier, making marine jumpers. No problems. Obviously accurate measurements required.

    No, I can't remember where I got them. Too long ago. I would imagine several places in the Memphis area that would make for you also. Crimpers that will crimp 6 ga wire properly are expensive. Too expensive to buy if you're only going use them once or twice.

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #6
    Bestboatwire.com

    If you don't want to buy the tools they will make a set for you.

  7. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Leeds,AL
    Posts
    1,466
    #7
    Here is what I don't understand about all of you guys and the big wire... Get a clue, the wire from the Depth finders is 20-24 gauge.... Learn to connect your terminals correctly and this includes solder after you crimp. I've been in electronics my whole life and laugh at the use of 10 to gauge wire directly to the Battery. Sufficient battery and correct connections do not mean to run directly to the dang Battery and have 4 to 8 lugs on a cranking battery... Just so stupid.

    2016 Phoenix 921 ProXP Mercury 250 ProXS

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    3,212
    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by DiawaKid View Post
    Here is what I don't understand about all of you guys and the big wire... Get a clue, the wire from the Depth finders is 20-24 gauge.... Learn to connect your terminals correctly and this includes solder after you crimp. I've been in electronics my whole life and laugh at the use of 10 to gauge wire directly to the Battery. Sufficient battery and correct connections do not mean to run directly to the dang Battery and have 4 to 8 lugs on a cranking battery... Just so stupid.
    You may well have been in electronics your whole life but you have not been involved in marine electronics your whole life - and it shows.
    Last edited by yupitsme; 01-10-2021 at 07:13 PM.

  9. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    834
    #9
    So if I understand correctly, I can crimp the 8 awg wires from the trolling motor into the proper marine grade terminals and that would be fine. Soldering is not required.

    Thank you.

  10. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Amarillo
    Posts
    12,496
    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by zero_cool View Post
    So if I understand correctly, I can crimp the 8 awg wires from the trolling motor into the proper marine grade terminals and that would be fine. Soldering is not required.

    Thank you.
    It's worked fine for many of us. I do add marine grade shrink tubing or buy the marine grade terminals with them--- IF you can find them.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Fairfax Virginia
    Posts
    33
    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    It's worked fine for many of us. I do add marine grade shrink tubing or buy the marine grade terminals with them--- IF you can find them.
    bestboatwire.com sells both.

  12. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by DiawaKid View Post
    Here is what I don't understand about all of you guys and the big wire... Get a clue, the wire from the Depth finders is 20-24 gauge.... Learn to connect your terminals correctly and this includes solder after you crimp. I've been in electronics my whole life and laugh at the use of 10 to gauge wire directly to the Battery. Sufficient battery and correct connections do not mean to run directly to the dang Battery and have 4 to 8 lugs on a cranking battery... Just so stupid.
    Yeah, good luck running a TM on a 20-24 gauge wire, and you don't solder after you crimp, you don't need to solder anything other than an antenna connection on a boat.

  13. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by zero_cool View Post
    So if I understand correctly, I can crimp the 8 awg wires from the trolling motor into the proper marine grade terminals and that would be fine. Soldering is not required.

    Thank you.
    Make sure you can properly crimp 8 gauge before you buy 8 gauge components or just get them premade by bestboatwire. I am all for DIY but a proper crimp tool for 6 gauge on up is $150 (FTZ correct crimp), I haven't found anything suitable for 8 gauge, if this is all you are doing then it might be cheaper to get premade wires. I like tools so I got the FTZ crimp tool and I am doing a lot more than installing a TM, plus I am sure I will do stuff for other people.

  14. Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Memphis, TN
    Posts
    834
    #14
    The terminals will be for the wires coming out of the trolling motor. Supplied new from the factory there are no connections, just the wire with a little bit of the jacket removed. These will then be connected to the existing battery wiring via a junction. I am not sure how ordering a harness or premade connections is going to change my need to crimp something onto the bare trolling motor wires?

  15. Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    903
    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by zero_cool View Post
    The terminals will be for the wires coming out of the trolling motor. Supplied new from the factory there are no connections, just the wire with a little bit of the jacket removed. These will then be connected to the existing battery wiring via a junction. I am not sure how ordering a harness or premade connections is going to change my need to crimp something onto the bare trolling motor wires?
    Ah, I thought you were running power to the battery! I'd install a plug and attach them to the plug. Marinco plugs the wire is attached by a set screw and you don't have to crimp or solder anything.

  16. Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    1,121
    #16
    I soldered mine,, not a problem in over 25 years
    2007 Z21 / 250 VMAX HPDI

  17. Member Grizzly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Littleton, NC
    Posts
    3,166
    #17
    I used to work on power plan simulators a long time ago. These were portable units that would be dragged all over the country. We would first crimp and then solder the connections. We did this because the vibration would work the crimped connections loose over time. If you solder the connection after crimping it will never come loose.

  18. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Southern NJ
    Posts
    402
    #18
    I purchased a hydraulic crimp tool from Harbor Freight for $65.00. It will crimp from 0 to 14 AWG wire. I wouldn't try to crimp ring terminals or connectors 8 AWG or larger without a hydraulic tool. I also use heat shrink tubing.

  19. Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Newmarket, ON
    Posts
    5,297
    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by kcinnick View Post
    Ah, I thought you were running power to the battery! I'd install a plug and attach them to the plug. Marinco plugs the wire is attached by a set screw and you don't have to crimp or solder anything.
    ^^^^^^ This. Optionally, hardwire it behind your bow panel. You can use your existing receptacle as a bus bar. Most motors will then require a cut off in the battery tray so you can then disconnect while charging.
    2019 BCB Classic
    Merc V8 200 4S

  20. Member bloodman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Belvidere, Il
    Posts
    6,010
    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by tandrew View Post
    bestboatwire.com sells both.
    Thanks for that link. Custom cables made easy!!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast