Plugging a Abundance of Trolling Motor Holes

[rojoguio]

Well since hole plugging is a current topic, here is how I'm dealing with the excessive amount of trolling motor mounting holes in my beater bass boat. This boat was nicknamed "The Stump Grinder" years ago so no gel will be used in this repair. I'm installing a Motor-Guide removable trolling motor mounting system. I like to "Single Pole" for Sac-a-lait so I'm adding a quick release mount for a transom - hand control TM. When I want to single pole the foot control - cable steer TM will be removed and I will use the hand control TM mounted on my off side. This keeps the prop wash from blowing up right where your fishing, spooking the fish, the hull deflects it.

The first pictures show the numerous holes, all would be visible if the TM is removed so they have to be fixed. (I do have some standards!) The holes were first drilled to clean glass & wood. Then plugs were cut & driven to a depth below where the wood starts. This allows a waterproof seal to the wood in the process. Pure West Systems epoxy was dripped into the holes then a piece of filler wire was used to smear the resin all over everything in the hole. The resin soaks in well if no filler is added at this time. West Systems 404 High Density filler was mixed into the remaining resin, not too thick, then dripped into the holes till overflowing. After a bit of time I went back out and popped all bubbles in the resin before quitting for the evening. More later.

P.S. The #3 Phillips head screws are keeping the threads clean in the holes that will secure base to deck. Yes, Threads. Every trolling motor I install the holes are threaded, you would not believe how much better the screws hold, especially after washers and locknuts are installed. I hope you find this useful. No loose mounting screws 6 months later.

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[paulrodbender]

That's a lot of holes........

[rojoguio]

Multiple owners, multiple trolling motors, and of course another rigging now.

The mounting location is not flat either, so fixing that too.

[rojoguio]

A few more pictures showing the hardened epoxy. After allowing the epoxy to harden completely I used a 24 grit grinding disc to sculpt the epoxy down to where it is almost to the gelcoat. Then using a new razor blade in my razor scraper the remaining epoxy was cleaned off. Here is a good time to point out the old silicon on the surface was not removed completely before starting to fill holes. Just scraped off the bulk. This prevented the excess epoxy from sticking where it was not wanted. The entire repair site was hit with an Air File to show where the high and low spots are so I can level before spraying a 2K Single Stage black. When doing a patch repair like this painting it black makes a feature out of the patch. Less noticeable than a poor match of color. Contrast will hide the repair much better. There is enough black stuff on the boat the casual glance will not reveal the needed repair. Now all that is left is to level the site so when the trolling motor is pinned on it will make contact all around the base. The base if screwed down without leveling first would have a slight arc in it making adding or removing the trolling motor difficult. Always install a removable mount level with the deck.

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[crank68]

Very nice work here

[rojoguio]

Thanks Bud. Just documenting for future reference material for the DIY Boat Guy.

After resting the mount base plug in position with a screw snugging each end in place I tried the Mount Base, it would not slide on at all. The pictures show a few things; one - the skimming material was prevented from plugging mounting holes with green tape. Works great, when you sand it keeps junk from entering too. Two - the sanding scratches were digging into the forward most position revealing a high spot. Now please understand what I'm saying here, when working filler down to a level position, when the sandpaper cuts all the way across, stop sanding, any sanding after that is digging a hole. Third - a low spot is also revealed. I had to let the Air File cut in the front, lowering the high spot, raising the low spot in the middle as much as possible. I screwed the plug back on, tried the mount base again, it slid half way on. Air filed some more till down to glass in the front, my stopping point, so re-screwed the plug down, tried base and it slid further but not enough to install pin.

So here is where you split the differences. The plug sits well most of the way back to front. Out of 6 screws the furthest 4 are good, when you tighten the first two the base will not slide on. The mount base does make good contact around the plug so splitting the difference here is "Bedding the Plug" with black 5200 fast cure on final installation. Rarely will you find a perfect bow deck on trolling motor installations and you have to use a bedding compound to spread the load and to help prevent over torquing the screws warping the trolling motor base. Silicon works in most cases but here, where the mount base is pinned over a center plug, I want to see a much more durable bedding compound. 5200 Fast Cure will do the job nicely. Ample curing time must be allowed for the 5200 before torquing the mounting screws.

The fitting is done, final installation plan is in place, time to work on appearance. First the final paint mask lines were laid out, then primer mask lines were laid out 1/4in to 1/2in inward so the cured primer could easily be feather edge sanded to finished paint edge. 4 coats of PPG Refinish JP202 2K filler primer was shot on to fill pinholes, scratches, and lock down anything else undesirable. More later, this has to cure to a point my thumb nail will not mark the primer before sanding otherwise the topcoat risks sinking into the primer, dulling out or going flat.

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[rojoguio]

Quick picture upload of Single Stage. The gloss is a bit too much so I plan to knock it down with a 2500 grit scuff pad.

Trolling Motor Holes 19.jpg

[CastingCall]

You do some mighty fine work there!

[firecap#246]

shoot RoJo, that black looks so good, just keep going!! :)

[tngw1500se]

I'd cover it with an anti-slip pad of some type.

[rojoguio]

Here is what the Motor-Guide Universal Removable Trolling Motor Mount Base looks like. By taking a little extra effort to pre-fit the mount / base / deck all together first, with the trolling motor installed there is absolutely no movement. I haven't taken a picture with the trolling motor back on yet. It covers most of the black paint.

Removable Trolling Motor Base.jpgRemovable Trolling Motor1.jpgRemovable Trolling Motor2.jpg

[paulrodbender]

Looks great on this end...... ..... And I'm sure it's rock solid.