1997 2.5 Water Pump question

[DieselDood]

Howdy Folks,
I picked up a 2.5 that has some issues.
I found it has a blown head gasket.
It has a small amount of rust tracing in that cylinder that will be easily honed out. Also compression is down to 110 on the other 5 cylinders (at 10 degrees F). Cylinder 1 had 65, which is why I pulled the head
So I'm going to do a re-ring (as long as everything measures out OK) so I know this motor will be solid for a good long time.


Obviously it will get a water pump in this process.
Since I have NO idea the history on this motor, I want to do the whole housing, upper and lower. So... I hopped onto MarineEngine dot Com and there are 3 options.

What is the difference between them?

There is 2 listings without base as well, so that adds to the confusion.

Motor Serial number has a big spot over the last 2 digits, but it starts 0G2167??

Thanks!

[leonreno]

Not sure about all the different models but do get the base since it’s a new to you motor. Also, 110 is not super bad but how
did you to the test? Best to follow the steps in this link, and the first poster Don/European Marine is the moderator and guru of this forum, and you can call and order parts from him, link in his signature.

http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=267446

[DieselDood]

Brand new fresh group 31 Battery, all plugs out, throttle WOT, crank till the needle stopped rising.

I did some messing around yesterday with the serial number. If I go 705 it's carbed (like my motor) if I go 706 it's EFI. So... Mine is apparently one of the LAST carb motors...

[JOE54]

differences would be what parts they contain like one might not have base one might have/which ever you order efi and carb mtrs around that vintage will be the same blocks and internals

[EuropeanAM]

Did you look for an aluminum welch plug on the block (up top, or possibly behind the solenoid/electrical plate) with the serial number stamped into it?

Normally, you can just use a 96148A8 water pump kit (complete kit without the base or seal carrier assembly).

[DieselDood]

Thank You European, I'll check that location.

I'm new to Mercs after 3 years of struggling with an OMC and not getting the performance out of it that I should, I'm changing to the dark side.I have a lot to learn!

I would like to replace the whole pump... because I don't know what the previous owner did or didn't do. I'm going to assume by the state of the head gasket and lower unit lube... he didn't do much. SO... to make this thing as solid as possible, especially on what I'm hoping is going to be a fresh rebuild... I think it's wise to replace the entire thing.

What are your thoughts?
I plan to measure the bores this weekend. Here is to hoping they are in spec, so all I need to do is hone and re-ring it.

[EuropeanAM]

On the water pump- that kit is quite cost-effective as it's a VERY broad-coverage kit. Includes everything you'll need for he pump, and a handful of gaskets that don't pertain to your engine.

[DieselDood]

Should I not worry about potential issues with the housing? I know this motor has a blown head gasket. Just as an example.
Oh and I found the serial number 0G216747

[EuropeanAM]

The above mentioned kit INCLUDES the housing. The only component not included in that kit is the "Water Pump Base" (which actually doubles as the driveshaft seal carrier).

That component can be purchased separately.

[DieselDood]

Ahh gotcha! OK so that isn't really needed, just replace the seal in it when I do the rest of it. No biggie!

Thanks for the clarification EuropeanAM!

[JOE54]

be sure you replace the gasket under the base/seal carrier

[DieselDood]

be sure you replace the gasket under the base/seal carrier

I plan to! I plan to reseal the lower unit as well. I figure it will be best to start out with everything in good shape for the season. Rebuilt powerhead, resealed lower unit... I should be ready to Rock!

[JOE54]

and ROLL