200HP Evinrude 1992. Oil/Gas coming from the Spark Plug Hole

[RMabus]

Hello All.

I am new here and not so much new to wrenching on stuff, but new to this motor. I am also inexperienced with carb motors. I just got this motor from a mechanic who swore this motor was perfect. It was not. Would not come out of the hole. He took it back and replaced a lot in the fuel system. Got it back, and I am still having some issues. Here they are.

1. Starts slowly when cold.
2. When attempting to get on a plane it bogs until it is really warm(needs something like 15 minutes).
3. Rev the motor pretty good and that goes away.
4. Chugs a bit and bounces around some when at idle. Appears to be stumbling a bit, and will occasionally die.
5. You have to punch the hot foot to get it to catch and get on plane, and get through this bog.

Things I have done.
1. Put sea foam in the fuel. 2 oz to 1 gal per a mobile boat mechanic who has done good work for us.
Ran way better but still not perfect.

Observations last night.
1. Oil Fuel are seeping out of the top port side spark plug hole.
2. Oil/Fuel is actually sitting in the front carb cover when I removed it last night.

Un-educated plans for now.
Ordered a coil for the top spark plug.
Ordered new spark plugs in general.
I have not done a compression test. I know I probably should.

Anything I am missing or should be concerned with?

[omcforever]

Model number...

[RMabus]

This should not have been that hard for me, but my previous owner swapped the cowling and I just finally found a model number after looking at the SN on the title. Now I feel like I can get some where.


VE200SLETF

[ChampioNman]

Serial and model number are on the port side clamp bracket or the rear of the Swivel bracket. Did you verify that #1 isn't firing?l You need to check the Tstats are opening at the proper temp ~145* F. You may have a sticky float in the #2 carb. If the floats are sticking, you will get fuel draining from the carbs into the airbox. I'd put a timing light on it and make sure everybody is firing at the correct time. Firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6. Get a shop manual an read it use a factory manual, perform a sync n link. Seafoam cures everything from bunions to gangrene.

[RMabus]

Thank you ChampioNman. I appreciate your feedback. I have not really verified that #1 isn't firing but honestly figured I would take the throw parts at it approach for this very second. The ignition module was pretty cheap to see what I am getting. I am going to guess this motor sat for a bit but to have fuel/oil tells me I have either and air or spark problem, not plumbing. I sprayed a ton of carb cleaner all over this motor the other day, so we shall see, but the coil comes in tomorrow and the spark plugs were replace post seafoam. I hope to stick it on the earmuffs after the coil gets here and see if it starts and runs any different.

[twitch]

Get the manual as stated also engines run different in the water and on the muffs, compression check would be first place to start, then follow ChampioNman suggestions.....

[RMabus]

Quick update for everyone on this motor. First of all this is not a venom, but it has venom carbs on it. It was either rebuilt and tweaked or it was a mid year model. Not sure.... Regardless, I wound upon hiring a really good mobile mechanic to come take a look at this motor. He came out the other day and a few things came to surface. 1. Compression test came back strong in all 6. Thats good news. 2. The fuel line to the fuel rail was shot, and leaking. 3. The carbs had been rebuilt and somehow they messed up the float bowls. The top cylinder that was the initial concern was actually not working properly and was not feeding fuel to the cylinder. This would explain the gas and oil leaking out. Anyway he did the best he could on the cylinder but we ordered a rebuild kit and it was the wrong one. The new one gets here tomorrow but in the mean time he rigged the old float bowl. Fired it on the hose and man was it WAY better. We then checked the fuel water separator filter and water was in that. The one last unresolved issue is the gaskets on the carbs. They all have hairline cracks in them. Again the proper kit will resolve that. Anyway, this is headed in the right direction but it hasn't been without some stumbles. I am not afraid of the mechanical but not knowing exactly how the float bowls should work would have never occurred to me. One oddity though. When we got it all set, the idle was really high. We are worried about the proper way to dial it back without impacting the firing order etc. The carb rebuild may resolve that anyway.

Side note. It is amazing to me how hard it is to find competent boat mechanics. In defense of the ones who are honest, I do realize it is hard to work on a motor that relies on water to create back pressure, out of water. Anyway, we should be running dependably shortly.

[omcforever]

Side note. It is amazing to me how hard it is to find competent boat mechanics. In defense of the ones who are honest, I do realize it is hard to work on a motor that relies on water to create back pressure, out of water. Anyway, we should be running dependably shortly.

Yep

[ChampioNman]

They will idle high out of the water, probably close to 1,500 RPM firing order will remain the same unless the collar on the flywheel hub has moved it is 1,2,3,4,5,6. With #1 top right looking at the back of the motor. Hope he used OEM parts that's the only way to go.

[RMabus]

Not sure what the PO/dealer/mechanic used but whatever he used he should have been on the receiving end of my wife’s favorite words. “Your doing it wrong”. We are going back with OEM.

[RMabus]

Ok. New update. So we determined this motor had been gettin water in it. Put a new filter on and cleaned the carbs. Started starting and idling much better. I then rebuilt the seal kits etc on the carbs. I then re, connected everything. This past weekend the motor had a rhythmic vibration and a serious lag. I really think we are missing a cylinder or two. It is also running much slower than it did when it was rough starting and dying a ton. I’m thinking about getting a big tub to attempt to isolate the cylinders. I will report back.

[omcforever]

Ok. New update. So we determined this motor had been gettin water in it. Put a new filter on and cleaned the carbs. Started starting and idling much better. I then rebuilt the seal kits etc on the carbs. I then re, connected everything. This past weekend the motor had a rhythmic vibration and a serious lag. I really think we are missing a cylinder or two. It is also running much slower than it did when it was rough starting and dying a ton. I’m thinking about getting a big tub to attempt to isolate the cylinders. I will report back.

So did the newest issues start after you did the carbs????

[RMabus]

It did. We did also dial back the idle on it as well though. On the earmuffs.

[RMabus]

Little,update on this. So we double checked compression. It’s good. Double checked spark. Good. Double checked the carb rebuilds. Tweeted some minor things but mostly good. Then we looked at the vro. It has been disabled as the oil pump setup but it is also not pumping much fuel out of it. I ordered a fuel pump bypass to install. But the vro had a tear in the plunger. Could this be choking the motor of fuel?

[ChampioNman]

Yes a bad diaphragm will not move enough fuel. Make sure you ordered a dual stacked pump and hopefully you ordered from a reliable source and didn't get one from Ebay or Amazon.

[RMabus]

I did order a more quality one. I installed it last night. In the process I did wind up pulling the primer pump hoses off. I don't think the primer was working anyway so I am not overly conscerned. Odd thing. When we went to fire it, it would sputter and stumble at first. I shot some starter fluid in the carbs and it fired right up and hasn't hesitated since. May have just needed to bleed all the air out of the lines. But it was pumping fuel hard out of it. We shall see. Taking it out this weekend.

[ChampioNman]

Don't get overly zealous with the starting fluid, it will wash the oil sheen off of the cylinders.

[bighare]

You need the primer to choke/ add fuel for cold starting.

[RMabus]

So you all might find this comical. We did the carb rebuild and all was good. Son took it out Thursday. Got it running and it ran well. Started a bit rough apparently but again that might be the primer issue. Ordered a new primer rebuild kit btw. Anyway, we all went to a campout/state park that was on an awesome fishing lake this weekend. My son pulled the boat and put it in the waters I pulled our camper. Well my son came to get me to go fish Friday. As he was pulling into the sand beach, he hit something. We went out and the boat would not get on plane. Thought it was the motor struggling again. Then I let it rev just a bit to see if we could catch it and we heard a pop. Thought I had destroyed my lower unit. Well turns out we ripped the hub assembly in two on the prop. Put a cheap aluminum prop on and ran it for the weekend. the good news is the motor is running awesome. Bad news is we could not go 70 due to the prop.

Still not starting the same. It will bump but not catch and disengage the starter. If we squirt just a bit of Starter fluid in the carbs it will be fine. Then after running for a bit it fires every time. I ordered a primer rebuild kit so hopefully that will get it to catch when trying to fire it. Not sure if that will have an impact or not as we have honestly never fired it on the choke. We shall see.

[Bassmeister]

Rather than starter fluid, put some 50-1 fuel oil mix in a spray bottle and spritz the carbs when cold and save your engine...until you get the primer fixed.