What v200 2.4L is this?

[Cultech]

Hi all,

New to this forum. I'm looking to find out what serial number range this motor is. Long story short, we bought this motor 2nd hand and we now believe it's most likely been stolen as we cannot find any serial numbers on it. I'm wanting to know which model this is so I can find and use the correct manual to look up items like timing specs, and of course use the correct parts.

It has a CDI 174-5456-16 stator on it, which I believe is a replacement for the Mercury #398-5454A35. However, I don't seem to be able to find any serial number ranges which use this stator and is EFI.

In summary what I know is:

- V200
- 2.4L
- EFI

Any light on this would be amazing.

[JOE54]

see how the fuel filter is mounted low and to the reed housing and cyl head design leeds me to believe this is a very early 2.4 efi possibly 220 laser mtr powerhead installed on a late model mid and cowling, see the 220 wrote on ecu /possible 14632a1 vintage TPI setting is .135 , thatb stator is for a 16 amp system and i dont see a regulator hmmmmm = overcharge for sure mate , but you got lots of other things to adress asap before venturing out into those shark infested seas, so i see a franken mtr some 85-86 model stuff and some 96 up model stuff , stay inland untill its passed test of reliability good luck and welcome to BBC,,,,,,, AMAZED ????????

[leonreno]

Not unusual for no serial number on older motors that have had powerhead replacements and such. Sometimes a serial number can be found on a Welch plug on powerhead, maybe near top of motor. But just because it doesn’t have a serial number doesn’t mean it’s stolen.

[JOE54]

+1 welch plug just behind flywheel stbd side top of block

[EuropeanAM]

see how the fuel filter is mounted low and to the reed housing and cyl head design leeds me to believe this is a very early 2.4 efi possibly 220 laser mtr powerhead installed on a late model mid and cowling, see the 220 wrote on ecu /possible 14632a1 vintage TPI setting is .135 , thatb stator is for a 16 amp system and i dont see a regulator hmmmmm = overcharge for sure mate , but you got lots of other things to adress asap before venturing out into those shark infested seas, so i see a franken mtr some 85-86 model stuff and some 96 up model stuff , stay inland untill its passed test of reliability good luck and welcome to BBC,,,,,,, AMAZED ????????

+1... that's a pretty good list of observations, too!

[Cultech]

Thanks for the reply guys. Unfortunately no Welch plugs.

Found some more info:

- I can confirm the ECU is a 14632A2, as it was bought and replaced by my brother. Is the TPS setting still .135v?
- There is a Voltage Rectifier (which I recently replaced CDI-154-6770), is this the same as a regulator?
- Noticed the fuel pump does not turn off, is it not supposed to switch off after X amount of seconds of no engine running?

Does anyone know what the timing specs are? Note, there isn't any idling or detonation modules installed.

Attached is a video link of the actual issue i'm trying to tackle. It has a rough idle, and bogs pretty heavily between 1k up to 2.5k, once its on plain and above 2.5k seems fine and responsive, revs to 6k but every not and then it will only rev to 5k...odd. If you ease into the revs, it seems to run okay. When below 3k it sometimes jumps around in the revs.



I've replaced the stator, all coils, plugs, pulled the VST apart to check float, pulled the pulse pump apart to check for debris, replaced fuel filters, trigger seems to be within specs when looking at resistance and voltage, checked that all injectors are firing. Going to double check the TPS sensor tomorrow, last i checked it was reading .3v but I may have been testing it between the wrong wires. I haven't done timing yet.

[Cultech]

I just tested the bias circuit in each switch box. Test from from terminal stud to the switch boxes metal casing and got 9.6k on one box and 10.6k on the other. I read somewhere that there should only be 200-300ohm difference between the two? I have tested each coil pack is receiving voltage, DVA for each was around 180-200v.

anyone have any suggestions? Yet to do timing, anyone know correct idle and max timing numbers ?

[JOE54]

.135 yes/not same as regulator gotta have both on your mtr with that stator 16amp system efi needs more charging capacity , pump is suppose to turn of around 30sec , 180-200 at all rpm on all 6+ coil terminals ?????? Bias voltage is negative voltage. what doe s fuel psi do when running engine ?????? Batt volt when running at 3000 ?????what plugs in it????? timming 6-8 retarded at idle 23 max. you got alot of things to do on that one

[Cultech]

.135 yes/not same as regulator gotta have both on your mtr with that stator 16amp system efi needs more charging capacity , pump is suppose to turn of around 30sec , 180-200 at all rpm on all 6+ coil terminals ?????? Bias voltage is negative voltage. what doe s fuel psi do when running engine ?????? Batt volt when running at 3000 ?????what plugs in it????? timming 6-8 retarded at idle 23 max. you got alot of things to do on that one

Thanks for your reply.

- Set to 1.35v
- The only way I can get the thing to idle is by loosening off the throttle cam and cracking open the air inlets slightly. Even then it's a rough idle.
- Not having a regulator at this stage (until I can get her running right) wouldn't be a massive deal would it? In other words it wouldn't effect the ignition system yes?
- Voltage was very erratic on the 2, 4, 5 coils so i replaced both switch boxes and now have good voltage steady voltage of 195-205v on all 6 @ 900rpm, but still problem persists
- I'll check batt voltage tomorrow.
- I'll check ignition voltages at higher rpms tomorrow.
- I don't have a fuel gauge to check.
- Still yet to do timing, ever heard of a trigger being bad at low rpm and and then coming good at higher rpm? You'd think that would be the low speed stator but see below for results:

Some Stator readings:


Blue/white:


Disconnected - 2.222k ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 290v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 291v steady


Blue:


Disconnected - 2.257k ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 325v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 284v steady
Red/white:


Disconnected - 50.6 ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 312v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 117-140v erratic


Red:


Disconnected - 49.8 ohms, 240-260v (peaked at 300v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 117-140v erratic

Also, this may be a dumb question but on the side of the cylinder head it says "Firing Order 1-2-3-4-5-6. However, when I took the manifold off to check if all injectors are firing, from a slowmo video I could see the It seems to fire 6-5-4-3-2-1? See attached photo. Is this correct?

[Cultech]

.135 yes/not same as regulator gotta have both on your mtr with that stator 16amp system efi needs more charging capacity , pump is suppose to turn of around 30sec , 180-200 at all rpm on all 6+ coil terminals ?????? Bias voltage is negative voltage. what doe s fuel psi do when running engine ?????? Batt volt when running at 3000 ?????what plugs in it????? timming 6-8 retarded at idle 23 max. you got alot of things to do on that one

Thanks for your reply.

- Set to 1.35v
- The only way I can get the thing to idle is by loosening off the throttle cam and cracking open the air inlets slightly.
- Not having a regulator at this stage (until I can get her running right) wouldn't be a massive deal would it? In other words it wouldn't effect the ignition system yes?
- Voltage was very erratic on the 2, 4, 5 coils so i replaced both switch boxes and now have good voltage steady voltage of 195-205v on all 6 @ 900rpm, but still problem persists
- I'll check batt voltage tomorrow. I did disconnect yellow wires from rectifier but problem still exists.
- I'll check ignition voltages at higher rpms tomorrow.
- I don't have a fuel gauge to check.<br>

- Still yet to do timing, ever heard of a trigger being bad at low rpm and then coming good at higher rpm? You'd think that would be the low speed stator but see below for results:

Some Stator readings:


Blue/white:


Disconnected - 2.222k ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 290v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 291v steady


Blue:


Disconnected - 2.257k ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 325v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 284v steady
Red/white:


Disconnected - 50.6 ohms, 250-270v (peaked at 312v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 117-140v erratic


Red:


Disconnected - 49.8 ohms, 240-260v (peaked at 300v in beginning)
Connected @ 900rpm - 117-140v erratic

Also, this may be a dumb question but on the side of the cylinder head it says "Firing Order 1-2-3-4-5-6. However, when I took the manifold off to check off injectors are firing, from a slowmo video I could see the It seems to fire 6-5-4-3-2-1? See attached photo.

[EuropeanAM]

Injectors don't fire individually... they fire in PAIRS.

Be very careful about spinning that engine over with the intake pulled back, spraying fuel poses a significant risk of fire or explosion!

In regards to the trigger: Yes, it is possible for a trigger to work perfectly at one setting of the throttle and NOT at a different position. This is commonly due to breaks or deterioration of the trigger's harness (usually can be replicated by testing trigger resistance while moving throttle through entire range and watching for variances in resistance).

Fuel Pressure Regulator: You CANNOT run this engine without a fuel pressure regulator. Period. Correct THIS FIRST.

Second to above: Obtain an OEM Repair Manual, and perform a COMPLETE Sync-n-Link Procedure. When all settings are properly set, you will ADJUST IDLE BY ADJUSTING THE STEP SCREW ON THE UPPER THROTTLE PLATE.

Do not mess with that screw further until you have installed an appropriate regulator, and performed a Sync-n-Link.

[Cultech]

Injectors don't fire individually... they fire in PAIRS.

Be very careful about spinning that engine over with the intake pulled back, spraying fuel poses a significant risk of fire or explosion!

In regards to the trigger: Yes, it is possible for a trigger to work perfectly at one setting of the throttle and NOT at a different position. This is commonly due to breaks or deterioration of the trigger's harness (usually can be replicated by testing trigger resistance while moving throttle through entire range and watching for variances in resistance).

Fuel Pressure Regulator: You CANNOT run this engine without a fuel pressure regulator. Period. Correct THIS FIRST.

Second to above: Obtain an OEM Repair Manual, and perform a COMPLETE Sync-n-Link Procedure. When all settings are properly set, you will ADJUST IDLE BY ADJUSTING THE STEP SCREW ON THE UPPER THROTTLE PLATE.

Do not mess with that screw further until you have installed an appropriate regulator, and performed a Sync-n-Link.

Thanks for the reply.

I see, but is it correct for the bottom pair to fire before the middle and upper pair of injectors. As seen in that attached photo. Gottcha, I had the kill switch down so no spark but yess I could understand how that could be a fire risk

I'll try test the trigger resistance while moving the throttle.

Apologies, when I referred to the regulator I was referring to JOE54's comment on the voltage regulator not the fuel regulator, which the motor has.

The throttle system on this motor does not have an upper screw on the throttle valve link like seen in the attached illustration. I think when I mentioned the Idle screw in my earlier post I believe I'm actually referring to the lower throttle stop screw. Hard to see in the attached photo's.

[EuropeanAM]

ECU's signal to fire injectors is based on signals from the IGNITION (so you can't really trigger injectors properly with lanyard switch pulled as there is no spark at all under that condition).

Also, keep in mind that fuel injectors are on the opposite end of the engine.

Better double-check that screw on the upper throttle plate. Usually hidden behind the VST... I've not seen a 2.5L plate that didn't have the screw (perhaps it's been removed)?

[JOE54]

very very early 2.4 220 lasers didnt have screw adjustments had to be made by bending arm where screw is on later ones , im telling my age now ,get EVERYTHING else set and tested and adjusted may not need to move it, and that means all sensors too , no reeds broke leakdown/compression,then yiu may can ease the idle up a bit by advancing idle timming, gotta find a voltage regulator too

[EuropeanAM]

Gotcha... easy to forget that when looking at post labeled "V200 2.4L".

Thanks, Joe.

[Cultech]

Hey guys,

so I threw a timing light on it after doing the TPS, throttle cam, butterfly valves adjustment. Unfortunately the flywheel only has a “+” to represent TDC (this + lines up with the adjustable arrow when Cyl 1 is at its TDC) and I don’t have a LCD timing light where I can set the degrees. But even with my basic timing light it seems very off. Note, the engine dies as soon as it goes below half throttle. From my understanding 6-8 deg should be pretty close to the + mark correct? Yet as the idle drops, the + seems to move way over to the left and then the engine does.

[JOE54]

that mtr sounds like somthing else is wrong to me ,you check spark on all 6 and bias voltage at boxes with dva as per manual,fuel psi,you look at reeds when inj housing was off ,remove each plug wire one at time to see if all cyl are working careful they bite