Loading 1993 Javelin 379T on Trailer

[Kenny8906]

I have owned a couple of Stratos boats in the past and liked them pretty well. I recently purchased an older boat that was in good condition. The boat it self runs and operates as should. I am having and issue loading it though, that I have never encountered. I was curious what you may think or suggest. When power loading the boat the boat will always slide back on the trailer away from the bow roller about 5 or 6 inches. In the past all my boats would stay in place once the bow eye hits the bow roller. I have replaced the trailer bunks and carpet, but it hasn't made a difference. Its not a big deal but more of an annoyance. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank you
Kenny

[NORRIS CRAFT 1]

My Stratos did that. I found that if I just put it a little less In the water it would stay pretty close to the bow eye Play with it & you will see i'am right. Best boat I ever had was my Stratos.

[Javelin389]

My old 389 was the same way, if backed in just a tad too far. That bow stop spring setup didn't help matters either.

[drake322]

My Stratos does this now. I replaced the carpet about three years ago and if you go to far, you have to keep throttle on to winch up. The two most used ramps by me here are steeper than normal. First time I put boat in after new carpet I put bow up like normal and started to jump out of the boat when it slid and my arse hit the side of the boat then the concrete. I thought I had done some bodily damage. I was OK but that never happened again!

[Kenny8906]

My old 389 was the same way, if backed in just a tad too far. That bow stop spring setup didn't help matters either.

I agree, I don't like the spring stop setup.

[JR19]

I would almost bet $ the trailer is too deep. The best way to learn correct loading trailer depth is to pay attention when UN-loading...when unloading if you are in the boat and someone is backing you into the water have them go very slow once the trailer gets in the water past the wheels. Have the driver pay close attention to when the boat starts to slide back on the trailer. As soon as the boat starts to separate from the trailer the driver needs to stop and make a mental note of how deep the trailer was. Now here is where it helps when loading... DO NOT back in as deep as it takes to unload. If you have the trailer the same depth you had it when it was unloaded the boat is not properly seated onto the trailer...its wanting to float off. This is why they need to stop short of the depth it took to unload.

Another tip is trim the motor all the way up until it is at the top of the trim cycle (not tilt but trim) if your in the tilt cycle you need to bump it back down to the upper part of the trim. This does two things. It ensures your motor is in an angle that will not drag the prop or skeg on the ramp. Plus with full positive trim when you give it gas to power load the nose of the boat will pop up and push up onto the bunks easier.

Now with all that being said all boat/trailer combos have different depths the trailer likes to be pending the depth and angle of the boat ramp. I know my trailer has two different depths I load at. On what I call normal or moderate angle ramps I know exactly where my trailer needs stop to be perfect but if I am on a ramp that has a more than normal steep grade I have to get the trailer even more shallow. Its not much but if I try to load with the trailer at the same depth on a real steep ramp like I do on a normal grade ramp the back of my boat will be too deep and move around thus making loading more difficult.

Over the years I have seen lots of people complain about the post with the spring mount. I even knew a guy who tack weld his to eliminate the movement. I have had mine 19 years and I still have the spring that came from the factory on day one. I have zero issues but I have took the time to pay attention to lean how my boat likes to be loaded/unload. Plus with 19 years experience owing the same boat I pretty much got it figured out. Now with that being said I power load mine until the bow eye hits the roller and the arm pushes all the way up against the post. When that happens I take my boat out of gear and kill the motor. When doing this every once in a while it will sometimes slide back 2 or so inches and that was because I had the trailer a touch too deep. The bow eye will be against the rubber stop but the post will not be pushed all the way against the post stop. A simple crank or two with the winch brings the post up against the stop. The only time I have ever had it slide back anything close to 5" is when I was way too deep, hence the reason I think the OP is having this issue. It's a recently purchased boat that he has yet to find what it likes. Try more shallow and see what happens

[g-string]

What color is your bow roller. If it’s black rubber I can’t help ya. But if it’s that clear honey color I can help you.

[ethand]

I would almost bet $ the trailer is too deep. The best way to learn correct loading trailer depth is to pay attention when UN-loading...when unloading if you are in the boat and someone is backing you into the water have them go very slow once the trailer gets in the water past the wheels. Have the driver pay close attention to when the boat starts to slide back on the trailer. As soon as the boat starts to separate from the trailer the driver needs to stop and make a mental note of how deep the trailer was. Now here is where it helps when loading... DO NOT back in as deep as it takes to unload. If you have the trailer the same depth you had it when it was unloaded the boat is not properly seated onto the trailer...its wanting to float off. This is why they need to stop short of the depth it took to unload.

Another tip is trim the motor all the way up until it is at the top of the trim cycle (not tilt but trim) if your in the tilt cycle you need to bump it back down to the upper part of the trim. This does two things. It ensures your motor is in an angle that will not drag the prop or skeg on the ramp. Plus with full positive trim when you give it gas to power load the nose of the boat will pop up and push up onto the bunks easier.

Now with all that being said all boat/trailer combos have different depths the trailer likes to be pending the depth and angle of the boat ramp. I know my trailer has two different depths I load at. On what I call normal or moderate angle ramps I know exactly where my trailer needs stop to be perfect but if I am on a ramp that has a more than normal steep grade I have to get the trailer even more shallow. Its not much but if I try to load with the trailer at the same depth on a real steep ramp like I do on a normal grade ramp the back of my boat will be too deep and move around thus making loading more difficult.

Over the years I have seen lots of people complain about the post with the spring mount. I even knew a guy who tack weld his to eliminate the movement. I have had mine 19 years and I still have the spring that came from the factory on day one. I have zero issues but I have took the time to pay attention to lean how my boat likes to be loaded/unload. Plus with 19 years experience owing the same boat I pretty much got it figured out. Now with that being said I power load mine until the bow eye hits the roller and the arm pushes all the way up against the post. When that happens I take my boat out of gear and kill the motor. When doing this every once in a while it will sometimes slide back 2 or so inches and that was because I had the trailer a touch too deep. The bow eye will be against the rubber stop but the post will not be pushed all the way against the post stop. A simple crank or two with the winch brings the post up against the stop. The only time I have ever had it slide back anything close to 5" is when I was way too deep, hence the reason I think the OP is having this issue. It's a recently purchased boat that he has yet to find what it likes. Try more shallow and see what happens

very good info especially about the spring mount.

[fishnfool38]

I would almost bet $ the trailer is too deep. The best way to learn correct loading trailer depth is to pay attention when UN-loading...when unloading if you are in the boat and someone is backing you into the water have them go very slow once the trailer gets in the water past the wheels. Have the driver pay close attention to when the boat starts to slide back on the trailer. As soon as the boat starts to separate from the trailer the driver needs to stop and make a mental note of how deep the trailer was. Now here is where it helps when loading... DO NOT back in as deep as it takes to unload. If you have the trailer the same depth you had it when it was unloaded the boat is not properly seated onto the trailer...its wanting to float off. This is why they need to stop short of the depth it took to unload.

Another tip is trim the motor all the way up until it is at the top of the trim cycle (not tilt but trim) if your in the tilt cycle you need to bump it back down to the upper part of the trim. This does two things. It ensures your motor is in an angle that will not drag the prop or skeg on the ramp. Plus with full positive trim when you give it gas to power load the nose of the boat will pop up and push up onto the bunks easier.

Now with all that being said all boat/trailer combos have different depths the trailer likes to be pending the depth and angle of the boat ramp. I know my trailer has two different depths I load at. On what I call normal or moderate angle ramps I know exactly where my trailer needs stop to be perfect but if I am on a ramp that has a more than normal steep grade I have to get the trailer even more shallow. Its not much but if I try to load with the trailer at the same depth on a real steep ramp like I do on a normal grade ramp the back of my boat will be too deep and move around thus making loading more difficult.

Over the years I have seen lots of people complain about the post with the spring mount. I even knew a guy who tack weld his to eliminate the movement. I have had mine 19 years and I still have the spring that came from the factory on day one. I have zero issues but I have took the time to pay attention to lean how my boat likes to be loaded/unload. Plus with 19 years experience owing the same boat I pretty much got it figured out. Now with that being said I power load mine until the bow eye hits the roller and the arm pushes all the way up against the post. When that happens I take my boat out of gear and kill the motor. When doing this every once in a while it will sometimes slide back 2 or so inches and that was because I had the trailer a touch too deep. The bow eye will be against the rubber stop but the post will not be pushed all the way against the post stop. A simple crank or two with the winch brings the post up against the stop. The only time I have ever had it slide back anything close to 5" is when I was way too deep, hence the reason I think the OP is having this issue. It's a recently purchased boat that he has yet to find what it likes. Try more shallow and see what happens

Yep!
I loved the spring bow roller helps in different angled ramps and all depends on the depth you put the trailer at. No matter the angle of ramp I put the back roller like best I remember like 4"-6" sticking out of water..Don't pay attention to anything but the back rollers. Once you find the sweet spot it'll change the way you feel about the spring roller. Most people I see having issues are loading to deep.

[Alumicraft145]

Every ramp will be a bit different. You will learn to eyeball it good.

[Papabear]

My 379 will always settle back a few inches so I have just started pulling up to bow roller and winching the the spring loaded roller up to the stop.