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  1. #1
    Member Coach185's Avatar
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    V150TLRB VMax cold starts

    My 2003 V150TLRB VMax is hard to start after setting for a few days. We have been having a good discussion about cold starts in the Stratos/Javelin forum, but time to put this out on the motor forum.
    We discussed the cold start procedures, but one issue sticks out regarding the fast idle feature.
    My setup includes a Hot Foot and the VMax has carburetors.

    Looking at my Seloc manual regarding fuel systems. It says some carburetors do not use a choke valve, but instead use an enrichment circuit which mechanically provides more fuel to the carburetor or intake during a cold start-up. I am assuming that the noise I hear when pushing in the key is fuel being injected into the carb.
    Seloc manual goes on to say in the starting circuit section that the choke plate is closed, creating a partial vacuum in the venturi. How does the choke plate get get closed? We assumed it was when the throttle lever was taken out of drive mode and put into free acceleration mode, but that didn't seem to work.
    I have read that yamahas have a manual choke on the side of the motor, but I don't see one on my V150TLRB.

    Here is my sequence of events from yesterday's cold start after the motor setting for 3 days and not cold outside (50 degrees F)
    Pushed in on the button on the bottom of the throttle lever and moved it forward.
    Motor was level in a water flush bucket and fuel bulb pumped up until firm.
    Turned key to on without starting
    Pushed in key to enrich fuel system, let go of push
    Turned key to start. No fire after about 5 seconds. Key back to on.
    Pushed key in again, and turned to start. No fire.
    Tried again, no fire
    Held in key and turned to start, no fire
    Back to push in, release, turn to start, about the 5th time she fired off. Died, push key in again and fired. Kept her running by pushing in the key every now and then.
    Once she smothed out I moved the throttle lever back and forth. Nothing from the lever affected the rpm's. Got in the boat and worked the hot foot and rpm'@ reacted accordingly.


    So I guess I'm asking for any clarification on cold start procedures in relation to fast idle and my setup

    JR19 has given lots of info on cold start procedure and got me to the above sequence
    Darksiede has posted that In most cases on older boats.. your hot foot is the ONLY throttle you have.. they disconnect the cable at the shifter disabling the throttle and high idle lever and it becomes a gear selector only.
    Buzz88 and 201pro have also offered their personal expertise.
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


  2. Member illinifish's Avatar
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    #2
    I have a 2002 model with hot foot. No need to push button in on gear shift. With hot foot it is gear shift only no throttle.
    important to have motor level when initial start.
    i use basically the same procedure you do.
    pump bulb til firm
    motor level
    push in key to engage choke and while pushing in turn to engage starter
    usually the second try she fires when cold start
    once she fires I may “bump” the key in to choke it a time or 2.
    use hot foot to feather the throttle til warmed up.
    Enjoying life in Southern Illinois

  3. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #3
    subscribed...just seeing what others have to say

  4. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by JR19 View Post
    subscribed...just seeing what others have to say
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #5
    A V150TLRB uses carburetors with choke plates. The choke plates are normally closed by an electrically activated solenoid when (a) the key is pressed in or (b) a standalone choke switch is used.

    It is not uncommon for the linkage between the solenoid and the choke mechanism to become disconnected. I would start there. Then have someone activate the choke via the electrical method to see if the plates are fully closing.

    Some models like a bit of throttle opening when the motor is being cranked and some don't. Experiment to see what works best.

    See below.
    zv150.png

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    #6

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    #7
    I have one and mine will not crank without using the manual choke when cold starting. I have tried all the tricks that I have read but none seem to work. It will crank fine after the the initial start.

  8. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #8
    The choke does not "enrichen" the carbs with more fuel. Enriching is a process that pulls (venturi) more fuel into the cylinders when the choke is closed. The noise you hear is the solenoid pulling the choke plates closed.

    I basically removed my solenoid cause it was not pulling or closing in all the way (i later found out it was actually the key switch that was defective). When i start my motor, i pump the fuel bulb, pull manual choke and crank till it starts. After it starts, i push the choke back in. Sometimes i get to the motor before it stalls. If it stalls, i just crank it back up and i am good to go.
    Your manual choke should be next to the rigging inlet on the motor.
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

  9. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #9
    Ok, found the manual choke, just to the side of the rigging on the front of the motor. Can only see it when the motor is trimmed down.

    Pulled the motor cover and can see the linkage from the manual choke is intact, so good there. I can also see the linkage move when I press in the key, so looking good there. Havent checked to see if the choke plates are closing fully. Will do that tomorrow.
    Cheers!!!
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #10

  11. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #11
    Yam911, thanks for the pics of the systems. Very helpful.
    What book or system are you pulling info from?
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #12
    First illustration is from the parts catalog. Available to anyone free of charge. At Yamaha USA's website. Also some dealers such as simyamaha.com have it linked at their site.

    Second and third illustrations are from the owner's manual. Which you may or may not have. Available from any Yamaha dealer or possible found on the innerweb.

  13. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #13
    Tried to start my boat today. Pushed in on the key and no fire. Reached back and pulled the manual choke and off she went. Used the hot foot slightly to bring the rpm's up to about 1200 then backed down to idle.
    Shut her down and pulled the black cover in front of the carbs. Pulled the manual choke out and checked the butterflies. All 3 closed . After I put the cover back on I realized I didn't check the butterflies with the key.
    I can see the linkage move the same amount when I pull out the choke or push in the key. So until I get time to take the carb cover off again I am going to assume key choke is working fine.
    Temps dropping here this coming week, so I'll wait until mid week and try it again
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #14
    I am not sure why the manual choke works so much better than soleniod choke, but it does.

    Level motor for best position of floats in carbs, pump fuel bulb tight, pull manual choke and start engine.

    If you want to go one step further, install an electric fuel pump. It makes starting and low-idle performance much better.

    You can search boards for info on electric fuel pump.

  15. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by yam911 View Post
    yam911 seems to know his stuff ...Lynn if you have this feature and follow the steps I gave on the other thread and use this pull this knob in place of what I described to do for fast idle I feel confident she will fire up with the first turn of the key. Use your hot foot to achieve fast idle of 1200 rpm then slowly bring it back to normal idle...this weeks weather forecast for your area would be perfect to try out the cold start procedure ...in all seriousness if you get out this week try it and let us know what happens. FYI if your stating it on a garden hose they sometimes act different because without the motor being in the water there is no back pressure so they tend to idle a little different on a water hose. Be very careful giving it very much throttle on a water hose because the lack of back pressure will allow the rpms to climb through the roof in an instant. Never rev up a motor on the hose. Always keep the rpms low when on a water hose. Your best and true test will be at the lake with the lower unit submerged under the water.

  16. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #16
    Gene, check out my post in the general bass boat section regarding running outboard at home. I have very low water pressure out at my barn and don't like using muffs to run my rig.
    The manual choke worked great and yes I plan on trying again midweek when the temps drop.
    And yes Yam911 gives solid answers with supporting docs,
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


  17. RIP Evinrude 1907-2020 JR19's Avatar
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Coach185 View Post
    The manual choke worked great and yes I plan on trying again midweek when the temps drop.
    And yes Yam911 gives solid answers with supporting docs,
    That's the main reason I suggest you post in here. I knew there would be someone with more knowledge than me and yam11 has proved that and as you say backed it up with supporting documents.

  18. Member bassinman215's Avatar
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    #18
    Here's how I start mine:

    Prime the bulb.

    1/4 throttle on hot foot.

    Push key in to close choke plates. Hold key in.

    Crank until it starts (usually 4-8 seconds).

    Fires right up. Use throttle and press choke plates in as needed to keep running. Usually good to go without any input in about 15 seconds.
    Wishing I was Fishing

  19. Member cwilt's Avatar
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    #19
    On the subject, is it possible to install a manual choke cable for the manual choke? Its a pita to get up, go to back of boat and push the manual choke back in when starting. The manual choke has always worked better for me, even when the my electric choke worked properly.
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by cwilt View Post
    On the subject, is it possible to install a manual choke cable for the manual choke? Its a pita to get up, go to back of boat and push the manual choke back in when starting. The manual choke has always worked better for me, even when the my electric choke worked properly.
    "anything is possible" :) Only concern would be if there is enough spring tension to bring the choke plates back to open with some form of a cable attached. I would be concerned that if the cable was turned slightly tight or got gummed up with a little dust, it might not allow the choke plates to return to full open position. This would cause an overly enriched position in normal operation. My 99 200 Vmax also has the electro-magnetic actuated choke plates, so far it works great. I use a similar sequence as others have suggested, prime bulb, on hotfoot slightly to get a little gas in the system, hit electric choke as I am cranking, usually pops in about 3-4 seconds max. Then hit choke as necessary to keep running along with hot foot feathering. Might also be a good idea to check idle speed. Make sure you are closer to specs. Good luck man.

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