Updating Bilge area

[fastglass1]

Over the winter, I am going to pull the gas tank and replace/repair valves, pump, and hoses. I have a slow leak somewhere and one of the pumps no longer works.

As I was searching for replacement parts, I came across information on a Flow-Rite Remote Drain Plug. Has anyone installed one of these and what is your assessment?

Any other suggestions or ideas to improve the area under the gas tank would be greatly appreciated.

[Strokerdean]

I was told it would be a piece of cake to install. I ended up taking it out a few times until the housing and plug would go in with out binding. The center knee brace needed to be relieved at the back edge as the drain plug sits right in the middle. It works fine but is still very hard to activate as the cable is probably still in a small bind. I carry a broom handle in the truck to push it in if necessary. If I had it to do over I think I would drill another drain hole off center for easy installation and a smoother actuation. I have friends that have had them installed in different rigs with no issues.

[fastglass1]

Thanks for the feedback Dean. I got the hard part done this morning. Gas tank is out.

I'll look closely and if it is going to be that much of an issue, I think I'll pass. Hopefully I can find the leak and then I can just leave the plug in all summer.

[Stroker250xs]

Thanks for the feedback Dean. I got the hard part done this morning. Gas tank is out.

I'll look closely and if it is going to be that much of an issue, I think I'll pass. Hopefully I can find the leak and then I can just leave the plug in all summer.

i attempted to remove my tank years ago and all I can say is how in the hell did you get it out? I was able to replace my pumps with it still in and I have also thought about the drain plug. I hear more negative feedback than positive due to trash getting stuck and not sealing. I have been thinking about installing the livewell system them using real oxygen. Just seems like the way to go tournament fishing on fish care.

[fastglass1]

Update on the redo of the bilge area.

Once I go into it, it became a much more involved effort. Two pumps replace, both valves replaced, and the float switch for the bilge pump replaced. All short sections or hose were replace and because of the different float switch, some re-routing of the hoses were required. I also did some cleaning up of the wiring and still have more to do. I also installed a new gas gauge sending unit and will be replacing the gauge in the near future. The switch panel next to the drivers seat is also something that I am looking into. A couple of the switches seem to be marginal. They work be don't have the positive click when switching.

Next step is to back the boat into the water and verify no leaks. Hopefully we will get a break in the weather this coming weekend.

Then it will be getting the gas tank back in the boat.

Bilge Mess 11-27-20.jpgBilge Update 12-20-20.jpg

[Strokerdean]

I have been in mine also, it just amazes me how the wires are run from point A to point B as well as the way things are positioned in the bilge. Good luck with your project.

[fastglass1]

Did a water test today and no leaks.

I did find that the new Flow-Rite valves needed some modification. As I was using the existing cables, when they showed closed at the levers, they were actually open. Had to take the valve apart and modify the internal mechanism. It was not as difficult as is sounds.

Once I get both modified and reinstalled, it will be time to put the gas tank back in. I'll see if I can get some pictures.

[fastglass1]

Spent most of the weekend finishing up the bilge area and reinstalling the fuel tank. No additional major issues, but I did have to replace the vent hose. For some unknown reason, it was about an inch too short. It was also really hard and brittle. Got some fuel rate hose at Napa.

Here are some photos of the reinstall. Only difference in reinstalling over taking it out was that I had to use a small prying tool (heavy duty screwdriver) to get it out and a rubber mallet to get it back in. If the open were just a 1/2 inch bigger it would be so much better.

IMG_20201226_095058191.jpgIMG_20201226_095235937.jpgIMG_20201226_095311826.jpgIMG_20201226_095911946.jpgIMG_20201226_095952909.jpgIMG_20201226_104543270.jpgIMG_20201226_135042268.jpg

[fastglass1]

Next steps are to clean up more of the wiring. Anyone have picture of what they did especially under the dash?

I have already removed a few wires and the pitot tube hose. I also replace the fuel level sensor and am in the process of replacing the fuel gauge. The wiring under the dash is a mess. Going to take a while to get it sorted out.

FYI; there are 2 different ranges for sending units. There is a 240 to 30 ohm where 240 is empty and 30 is full. There is also a 0 to 190 ohm where 0 is empty and 190 is full. As my sending unit was dead and I could not measure what was there, I guessed and chose poorly, hence the new gauge. What was in the boat from the factory was 240-30 sending unit. Oh well, live and learn. I do like the new gauge as it is digital.

[fastglass1]

Well it has taken a lot of time and effort to clear up some of the wiring. There is definitely more that could be done but for now, this will be a nice improvement.

The start for this was adding a new fuel gauge. So the first photo is a little messier than it was before adding the gauge. The final 2 photos are after much trial and error in rerouting wires. The 2 busbars added were a great way to organize the grounds (black wires), +12V switched power (red wires), and the backlight for the gauges (blue wires).

IMG_20210101_102535642.jpg IMG_20210116_134159385.jpg IMG_20210116_134216526.jpg

[DewRonInc]

Mine looks like a rats nest, that looks great