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  1. #1
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    Pitted and gouged trailer spindle

    I have a 1994 rangertrail single axle trailer. It has many many Minnesota and Canadian miles on it. Because I am retired and need projects to keep busy (covid19) I decided to do my own wheel bearings instead of using a local shop. I have been compulsive about maintainence over the years. When I took the hub off I was shocked at the condition of the spindle. See pictures. Even after emery clothe there are deep pits and gouges. Should I continue to use them ? The spindles are welded on, so how hard is it to replace the whole axle spindle assembly?
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  2. Member
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    Jan 2007
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    #2
    All that will clean up as long as the bearing will slide on the shaft. If they came off they will go back on. You will need a couple of wear sleeves for the seal area along with new bearings and you should be good to go. Be sure to grease the wheel bearings a couple times a year to force the water out. I think that model trailer used a needle fitting to force grease to the back through the shaft until it comes out the outside.

  3. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #3
    What he said ^^.. The only critical part is the wear sleeve-- replace them and you should be good to go..

  4. Member
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    #4
    Is there a part # for the sleeves or do I need to remove them and measure or take them with me to parts store? The spindle shaft is 1 3/8 " straight.

  5. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #5
    May be hard to find local. I've always had to order them from the maker of the hubs. If you can find a part number either from Ranger or the hub manufacture Trailer parts superstore is a sponsor here and may have them. Hopefully someone will show up here that has the info. May also try posting on the Ranger forum.
    Good luck

  6. Member
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    #6
    From the look/shape of the sleeves and the vintage year, my guess would be start with UFP products.

  7. Member
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    #7
    I think you are correct. I ordered some replacement sleeves from the trailer parts superstore that are for UFP spindles. They are not expensive so worth a try. Thanks to all for help.

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    #8
    Can you see a number on the rear seal to help determine the seal ID and OD?

    That ID size can help determine the sleeve needed.

  9. Member
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    #9
    If you have a decent set of calipers you can check pretty easily also. UFP is 1.68" OD, most others are 1.72" OD.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by lmoore View Post
    If you have a decent set of calipers you can check pretty easily also. UFP is 1.68" OD, most others are 1.72" OD.
    You are correct. Ranger told me the bearings are L68149 and I measured the OD of the wear sleeve and is 1.68. I think I found a source for the sleeve on Ebay.

  11. Member
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    #11
    https://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-st...ear-ring-33522
    I get them here if you ever need another source

  12. Member
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    #12
    Gouged or missing material in the axle is usually not a problem if it isn't on the seal area, and if it holds the inner races of the bearings relatively tight. Too much missing material can let the inner races rotate and that can cause issues.

  13. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #13
    Had one years ago that the race would spin. took a coal chisel to opposing sides of the spindle where the race seated-- had to tap it on but it worked.

  14. Member
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    #14
    Okay found the correct wear sleeves and replaced. Used emery clothe and cleaned the spindles the best I could. Reused the old UFP hubs and put in new races and repacked with new bearings. Races seem plenty snug. The rear seal was a different size than what I had available. It was a 2.32" x 1.68" double lipped seal. This was first time in years that I did my own bearing, usually had it done at outside shop so don't know if they ever replaced wear ring or other components. Bought a cheap bearing and seal driver kit so may start doing it myself every fall.

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    #15
    I'm a bit late but if you google "spindo seal" you'll get the parts you needed along with the right seals.

  16. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by jthomp47 View Post
    Okay found the correct wear sleeves and replaced. Used emery clothe and cleaned the spindles the best I could. Reused the old UFP hubs and put in new races and repacked with new bearings. Races seem plenty snug. The rear seal was a different size than what I had available. It was a 2.32" x 1.68" double lipped seal. This was first time in years that I did my own bearing, usually had it done at outside shop so don't know if they ever replaced wear ring or other components. Bought a cheap bearing and seal driver kit so may start doing it myself every fall.
    Great job. I usually just take a peek at the inside of my wheels when I get my trailer at the ramp to load up. If I see no sign of visual leaks, all is good. Each spring I jack up my trailer and give each tire a spin. Any water intrusion will pit the rollers and races, you can hear them growl.


    2020 Ranger 521L Tour, 300 Mercury, 112 Minn Kota Ultrex
    3 12" Helix Units, Mega Si, Mega Di, Mega 360, Garmin 8412 W LiveScope mounted on Rite Hite Turret.

  17. Member
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by jthomp47 View Post
    Okay found the correct wear sleeves and replaced. Used emery clothe and cleaned the spindles the best I could. Reused the old UFP hubs and put in new races and repacked with new bearings. Races seem plenty snug. The rear seal was a different size than what I had available. It was a 2.32" x 1.68" double lipped seal. This was first time in years that I did my own bearing, usually had it done at outside shop so don't know if they ever replaced wear ring or other components. Bought a cheap bearing and seal driver kit so may start doing it myself every fall.
    Do yourself a favor and get the correct set of Bearing Buddies for your hub when you are done with the entire job. Use them to get as much grease in each hub possible, and check for any grease leaks at back of seal, if you don't have brakes. Make it a practice to give it about 3-5 pumps of grease each use, or until you see grease start to move out of hub toward you.

  18. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by digthemup View Post
    Do yourself a favor and get the correct set of Bearing Buddies for your hub when you are done with the entire job. Use them to get as much grease in each hub possible, and check for any grease leaks at back of seal, if you don't have brakes. Make it a practice to give it about 3-5 pumps of grease each use, or until you see grease start to move out of hub toward you.
    The absolute LAST thing I'd recommend..

  19. Member
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by fishnfireman View Post
    The absolute LAST thing I'd recommend..
    Why is that you feel it is so wrong??
    How many trailers to you currently maintain that proves me wrong??
    Currently, I maintain 2 boat trailers, 1 with brakes, and 3 RV trailer (22-31'), 1 race car trailer all with brakes on both axles and all have Bearing Buddies using the suggestion I described every outing which could be from 10-300 miles. By the grace of Christ, no issues with any of them apart from yearly taking apart and checking all components and brake adjustments.

  20. Member fishnfireman's Avatar
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    #20
    Glad it works for you.

    Once the hub is full--where is all that grease going "give it about 3-5 pumps of grease each use" ??
    Do you think forcing grease out the seals every time its used might weaken the seal ?
    Do you think once that seal is breached by forcing grease out, that water can also get back in ?
    How long does it take to clean all that grease off the wheels and trailer at your yearly maintenance ?

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