Ideas Concerning Tilt Trim Pro XS 250 (HELP DON, LOL)

[BassCatKWG]

Hello Guys and Gals,

2010 BassCat Puma FTD DC
2010 Mercury Pro XS 250 (ser#1B764965)
TorqueMaster Gen 1 Lower Unit
2019 Fully Dressed Powerhead

I apologize for the long post in advance I but want to get as much info out there as possible.

So I had a small fluid leak due to one of the 6 o-rings in the shaft and/or the bottom of the tilt cylinder. I removed the assembly, put in on the bench, broke completely down, inspected, cleaned, and ordered rebuild kit #878408A1. When it came in everything was going smooth until I tried to put the (6) new o-rings in, which were way to big. Came to the BBC and found an old thread where Don instructed another member that he had the older style (removable pump housing). That is what I have also, not sure why, but I am in the same boat.

I ordered kits #811612A3 and #811607A1. When I got them I put everything back together, put a nice new paint job on it with clear coat, and mounted it back on the boat. That's when the struggle started, lol. I can not get it to work at all. I started with the tilt ram and both trim rams extended all the way out and I filled with Merc fluid. The pump motor runs and sounds like it is trying to pump just very little movement of the rams every so often. I did the 2-3 seconds burst of the motor according to my manual but no luck.

Since then I have tried the following:

1. Retracted tilt and trim rams all the way in. No go. Tried them extended all the way again. No go.
2. Pulled trim ram end caps, removed trim rams to inspect, looks good. (the one with the check valve is on the port side)
3. Pulled tilt ram and memory piston to inspect. Looks good.
4. Pulled shock piston back apart, made sure shock balls, springs, and check valve was good. All good. (in the manual it says one of the springs and keepers are red, I dont have a red one?)
5. Torqued shock piston nut to 90 lb/ft. Put back together. No go.
6. Tried bleeding for hours already in every possible position. While doing so I have tried with the new and old manual relief valve assemblies. No go.

The last time I tried it, when I hit the up button (motor was on the locking lever all the way up) it was actually pulling the tilt ram down. When I hit down it did nothing. Released the motor onto a jack and it just went all the way down. I did make sure the wiring was correct and it is. (green to green/blue to blue)

Does it matter what orientation the shaft is in? I know it is placed in the right direction with respect to the groove pin but does it need to be rotated to a specific place. I have and used the alignment tool. I have gone through the manual countless times now just trying to think of something I may have missed but can't think of anything. (my service manual is for the newer style cast in pump unfortunately)

Before I pull it back off the boat I was just wondering if it is maybe something simple I am missing. I have rebuilt a few tilt/trim systems before and never had any problems. Go figure it would happen to me with a tourney this weekend.

Anyways, thanks in advance for any and all ideas!

[BassCatKWG]

Also, I am probably going to pull it back off tomorrow and break it down again to see if an o-ring got twisted or something. Is there any issue with just hooking it to a 12 volt power supply on the bench to bleed and test? Before I go through the trouble of reinstalling it. Thanks again!

[EuropeanAM]

Look at the diaghrams for the PO Check Kit. If these were not replaced, that is where I would start.

One little piece of debris in them can cause a complete bypass of pressure and prevent the system from working properly (as well as leaking down).

[BassCatKWG]

Thanks as always Don. And ya, gonna pull it all back apart later. It's kind of tough verifying the right parts considering the tilt trim unit doesn't align with the engines serial number, lol. Wonder why there are a few ProXS 250s out there with the old style (removable pump) systems on them? I am the second owner of this rig and the original owner said he never had it changed. Hmmm

Check valve kit would be (P# 811610A1) I believe?

I wish I didn't live so far from SC. You would for sure inherit my problems! Ha. There just unfortunately isn't anyone around here in rural central Texas that I trust more than myself.

[EuropeanAM]

Really would need to "see" the pump/motor combination in order to accurately identify the parts.