PRO KOTE thread finish.

[fishnfireman]

Which part--- A or B of the little 6 gram thread finish packets is the hardener ?
The last few I've used would take forever to stop running and still have never gotten hard.
Was hoping if I used more hardener it would setup quicker.
Thanks Mike.

[ECobb91]

Part A-Resin
Part B- Hardener

i noticed prokote takes a very long time to cure hard. I like it for how easy it is to apply (pot life is more user friendly than thread master) but I like the finish product a lot

[ogrich31]

It's a general misconception that more hardener would cure epoxies faster. It's actually the other way around, more resin and less hardener.

But you should always go with the directions, which is 1:1. For prokote, you have to really make sure it's a 1:1 ratio. If you're off by a little, it may not cure. Even air bubbles in the syringe is enough to throw prokote out of wack. It has to be mixed without any streaks as well. Prokote is not as forgivable as other finishes in that aspect. I've never had a problem with prokote, but I also mix it twice as long as let's say.. Flex coat ultra v. I also measure it as close as I can (top or bottom of a line on the syringe, ect).

I'll usually have rods wirh prokote on my dryer for 7-8 hours while I can get away with 5 hours with most high build brands. In cold temps (50 degrees or so), it takes forever for prokote to dry. One time I had to keep the dryer on for 12 hours when it got really cold.

Prokote I feel takes a few days to fully cure. But the extra pot life more than makes up for the long wait time for me. I don't use it too often any more, mainly because I do this as a second job, and I need the rods to be on my dryers for as little time as possible to maximize my profits.


I'm talking about prokote medium btw, which I consider a light build. I've heard nothing but bad things about prokote high build.

[ogrich31]

Also, you must mix prokote with a minimum of 3cc's of each part. Not saying that you can't have it cured with half of that amount, but it gives you that much more room for error.

I'm not promoting another brand or anything as I prefer prokote over it, but gen4 finish is probably the best I've tried when mixing unequal amounts. I do not recommend this at all and will never lay epoxy down where I know I put unequal amounts. It was just for testing purposes.

[fishnfireman]

thanks for all the replies
I haven't built a rod in years, mainly because of age (eye sight and shaky hands) but I do replace guides or add hook keepers and such... Thats why I use those little pre measured packets.
I don't have a dryer but the last few I've repaired would take over 24 hours before they cured enough you could even touch it.. I do have them spinning on a home made drill setup.. In West Texas with 10% humidity and 100 degree temps I've never needed a dryer.
I've got one that I replaced a guide 6 months ago and you can still stick a fingernail in it.

[DrewFlu33]

Using syringes to measure it out is the way to go to make sure you get equal parts--and as suggested above using equal parts is VERY important with ProKote. As also said above they say 3 ccs minimum of each, but I've had no problems mixing 1 cc of each, and I'm fairly confident I've done it with 0.5 cc of each but wouldn't swear to it. You just have to be very precise in measuring and syringes are really the only way to do it in my opinion. Other thread finishes are definitely more forgiving in that regard.

Even when you get it right, I've found that it will still be "softish" after 24 hours and will take 2-3 days before it hardens like you'd expect for cured thread finish. That said, you should definitely be able to touch it within 12 hours without any issues unless the area you're drying is abnormally cold (like less than 60 degrees) which it definitely sounds like is not a concern here.

[Riccochet]

I like the ProKote for the first thin coat over the threads for several reasons. Long pot life, it's thin and soaks in to the treads and long cure time. The "3 cc rule" is there to add a bit of a buffer for inaccurate measuring of the two parts. The more you mix the less accurate you need to be. That being said I'll generally mix 1.5cc of each part for the initial coat. Less waste.

I can take my time and make sure each wrap is saturated properly. 6-12 hours later it's still tacky enough for a second coat of high build for the final finish.

On it's own, after several coats, it does take 2-3 days to somewhat fully harden. It'll be hard, but still feel kinda rubbery, if that makes sense. After a week its rock hard.

I've never been in a rush to complete a rod, for myself or someone else. I always tell people it'll be a week of build time after I receive all the components. That way there's no expectation of delivery early.

[willwork4fish]

I used Pro Kote for one rod. I don't think any of its "properties" of long pot life, taking forever to dry and requiring a perfect mix are pros at all. I kinda think its garbage. D2, Gen4 and Threadmaster are all far superior. If you don't do a lot of rods just buy the smallest bottles, some syringes and caps. I mix up 1 cc each of D2 all the time for repairs and have never had a problem.

[fishnfireman]

Thanks for all the replies I have an order in to Mud Hole .. will measure them instead of the blister packs. Also ordered some different kinds.

[jglenn21]

I have to agree with Mike... my one bottle of Pro Kote just sites on the shelf.. Gen 4 for me.. was a threadmaster guy prior and still use it on occasion

[DrewFlu33]

I have also moved on from ProKote at this point. Probably should've mentioned that above, but given that you had it figured giving some tips on how to make it work was a good idea.

I'm using Threadmaster right now and have been happy. I've actually been getting by only using the Lite formulation. I originally went that direction as I'm slow and it has longer pot life than other options; in fact, it's workable for at least as long as the ProKote in my experience, and it's definitely less finicky in that it's not as picky about mixing ratios, seems to release any bubbles easier, is less prone to fish-eye if you wait several days or end up with some amount of contamination before a second coat, etc. I usually have no issues with getting a rod finished off with two coats of the Lite. I'm doing two coats no matter what I use since I've always felt that an initial thin coat to soak into the threads is important. The one rod I did try using a single coat of high build I had the bait keeper pull out on me which is obviously no bueno. While the guides held on fine, the last thing I want to worry about on a rod build is having stuff pull apart.

I am really wanting to try the Gen 4 as I've heard a lot of really good things. I shied away initially due to it being new and my concerns about pot life (read: me being too slow with my thread finish), but too many good reviews to not try it. It's next on my list!