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  1. #1
    Member Coach185's Avatar
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    2020 Suziki DL140 alarm buzzer

    On my new DL140 4 stroke on my 2020 Tritoon I'm having a reoccurring issue. While running on the lake I will get a alarm buzzer. The buzzer sounds exactly like the alarm buzzer that goes off when i first turn the key on. This occurs at various rpm's and conditions (high rpm's, low rpm's, speeding up, slowing down). There's No warning lights that come on from the gauge on the instrument panel when it occurs, just the buzzer.
    I took it in to the dealer I purchased it from and they couldn't get it to activate at the shop. And the motor was not throwing any codes to indicate an issue. They told me they needed to take it out on the water to get it to activate.
    I asked what good that would do as the motor wasn't throwing any codes. They said they needed to hear the buzzer themselves. Basically saying they didn't believe me and needed to verify what I was saying and they wanted to charge me for their time for doing the test drive because that wasn't covered by warrenty.
    So I asked what they would do when they took it out, the buzzer went off and no codes thrown. They said not sure??? Then they told me to make a video on my phone so they could hear the buzzer. I left with the mindset of what a bunch of BS

    Fast forward a few weeks. I was in my local bassboat repair shop (not the dealer I purchased the pontoon boat from) and spoke with the Suziki certified mechanic. He suggested doing the 20 hour service and resetting the system. Take it out on the water and see if the warning buzzer stopped activating. If it continued to set off the buzzer bring it in to the shop and they would hook it up to check for any codes, if no codes they would call in the Suziki rep. I left with the mindset of ok we have a pathforward.
    So anyone else have this kind of warning buzzer issue with there Suzikis?

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    #2
    It's not warning you that the 20 hour service is due?

  3. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #3
    The owners manual says no, but I'm really not convinced.
    Hoping the weather turns nice next week so I can take it out and see if the reset of the system clears the alarm

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    #4
    Make a video of your next test as was suggested. It provides powerful tangible evidence that cant be denied.

    Make sure you show the gauges and the engine at speed.

    If no codes etc identified its possible that the buzzer wiring is not done properly and may just be shorting out.

    Not always, but frustratingly often, these kinds of problems are due to poorly done installations.

  5. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #5
    Had it out yesterday after completing the 20 hour break in maintenance and she runs smooth as slik with no alarms. 4000rmp averages 32mph. I believe the rpm range for this motor is 5400 - 6200, but for the couple of short wot trimmed up occurrences I was only getting up to 5200rpm, which hit 35mph gps. No alarms at all
    In addition to the maintenance (oil changes) I back flushed the motor using the flush port. I noticed good water flow from all weep holes but not great flow from the water intake . So I removed the plastic screens and pushed some pressured water up into that area. Hooked back up the hose to the flush port and saw better flow. Maybe the alarm was due to restricted water flow into the motor???
    Ok, on ward, the prop is aluminum 3x14x21 and was wondering if a different prop would be beneficial to overall performance?

    I dont think I listed actual motor info - Suzuki DF140A - (14003F - 916043) on a 22' Misty Harbor 2085 Tritoon. How do I go about identifying specifics about this motor?
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #6
    At 5200 you are not getting anywhere near the best out of that 140.

    You need to check engine height (maybe too low) and/or reprop to hit at least 6000rpm at WOT.

    Just a note in case you are not aware - never run the engine with the hose on the flush port. It may be OK on some other makes but its NOT on your Suzuki. If you have then its likely you will have damaged the impeller and housing.

    What other specifics do you need on your engine?

    Its a DF 140A engine, not a DL as stated in thread title and intro post. That is the current model.

    Specs will be detailed in your owner’s manual. As will things like how to reset service reminders and the correct way to flush the engine.

  7. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #7
    Moonlighter, thanks for the response.
    No I didn't run the motor from the flush connection, so no issues there.
    Owners manual, now thats an issue. Cant find it, turned the barn, workshop and house upside down. Had it with all the paperwork from the purchase of the boat. Ill keep looking, but have access to it online.
    I was hoping for someone to jump in and tell me the prop is not a good fit for my application.
    The dealership already moved the motor up to achieve better performance so I question the prop itself.
    On our outing yesterday I crossed another boats wake, no big deal but then the motor rpm's increased to 6100 and speed dropped to mid 20's. I was in rough water and the prop felt like it was just slipping. I cut the throttle back and the boat responded accordingly. Water flattened out and back to normal operation.
    Back to 4000 rpm and 32 mph. Then bumped it to wot and could only get 5200. As its a fairly new motor I didn't want to push the wot for more than a minute or so.
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #8
    Sounds like the prop lost grip on the wake. They may have lifted the motor too far, or just a bad prop??

    And yes, it doesnt sound like its suited. Overpropped by a fair way. Motor is under too much load.

    Ive been told that US Suzuki dealers are required to correctly match props to the boat and it has to be signed off by the customer and the dealer when the warranty paperwork is submitted by the dealer. They should work with you to get this sorted properly to your satisfaction.

    Is it a Suzuki prop or another Brand?? A stainless steel prop is always going to have better grip on the water that aluminium, but are more expensive and less forgiving when they hit hard objects....

    Anyway, pontoon boats are something of a mystery to me, dont see that many of them here in Australia. But I found a boat test for what may be a similar boat to yours on Suzuki USA website, and there are a few others on their boat test page for you to look at to get an idea of the props they used with 140A’s on toons. Hope this helps.

    http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%...0%20L%20DF140A

  9. Member JoePA's Avatar
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    #9
    a 17 or 19 pitch prop should get you to where you need to be.
    Joe Galada - Tamaqua, PA
    2004 Ranger 521VX - Evinrude 250

  10. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #10
    Spoke with my dealer this afternoon and they are willing to swap out the 21 for a 17 but are questioning why. The guy was surprised when I told him the wot was between 5600and 6200 and even went as far to tell me I was at red line spinning it that fast.
    I asked him why Suziki would put in writing the wot was 5600/6200 and he didn't have a answer.
    So looking forward to getting a prop that allows me to get into the rpm range specified by Suzuki.
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


  11. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Moonlighter View Post
    At 5200 you are not getting anywhere near the best out of that 140.

    You need to check engine height (maybe too low) and/or reprop to hit at least 6000rpm at WOT.

    Just a note in case you are not aware - never run the engine with the hose on the flush port. It may be OK on some other makes but its NOT on your Suzuki. If you have then its likely you will have damaged the impeller and housing.

    What other specifics do you need on your engine?

    Its a DF 140A engine, not a DL as stated in thread title and intro post. That‚€‹‚€‹‚€‹ is the current model.

    Specs will be detailed in your owner’s manual. As will things like how to reset service reminders and the correct way to flush the engine.
    So I see wot specs are 5600 -6200. Is that the same as the powerband? On paper what rpm is the power created
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #12
    That will be the range in which max power output is achieved.

    You certainly do not want to be propped to achieve anything below that range, and preferably be in the upper part of that range - if for no other reason that when the boat is first set up, its usually running “light” with less fuel, gear, bits and pieces, people etc that it will normally be run later on.

    I am good friends with my local Suzuki dealer. Have known him for 15+ years.

    He is one of the most highly qualified and experienced Suzuki guys in the country, so much so that Suzuki Au sometimes sends him customers who cant get problems sorted by other dealers.

    He always sets Suzukis up to achieve at or slightly above 6000rpm.

    My DF115 hits about 6100-6200 at WOT trimmed out with a average load in good conditions. He says “spot on”. It probably picked up 100-150 rpm after it loosened up at around 80-100 hours.

    I would be very worried about that mechanic who was surprised at the official factory recommended rev range. What else doesnt he/she know? Its pretty basic stuff for any mechanic trained in modern 4 strokes.

    Those whose mindsets are still stuck in 2-stroke territory might have trouble seeing those rpms because many of the 2 stokes max rpms were around 5500rpm and they were typically propped 5200-5400rpm. But that just doesnt work with these modern 4 strokes.

    All Suzukis have over-rev protection built in. Im pretty sure that on most of the engines it cuts in at around 6400rpm.

    Try the 17 or 19” prop and see how you go. I will post in a few minutes how we gather and record prop data to compare prop performance.

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    #13
    The following is an extract from a sticky thread I posted a few years ago over on the Suzuki Outboard Parts forum on propellors and engine heights. This part deals with getting the data you need to validly compare one prop with another so you can objectively determine the benefits.

    If you can do this series of steps with the current prop before the dealer changes to the 17 or 19, you will then have HARD DATA to prove the differences.

    Rule 3: You need facts and data!
    W Edwards Deming said: "Without data, you are just another person with an opinion".. This applies 100% to testing props.

    Once you've got the engine height set to optimum, the best idea is to establish a good relationship with your local Suzuki dealer or a prop shop, who will let you trial a couple of props until you find one that performs to the optimum on your boat.

    The procedure to test props
    Once the engine height is set right, we then test the current prop by finding a smooth bit of water, using the standard load the boat usually carries, and at every 500rpm from idle to wot (trimmed out) we record Speed and Fuel economy. Take a reliable person with you to run the stopwatch (on your mobile phone) and to record the results while you drive and call out the information to them.

    We make up a table on a sheet of paper like this: (note you will need a C-10 or SMG gauge, or the engine networked to a display, in order to get live fuel economy data)

    RPM Speed. Fuel ec (mpg)
    1000. 6knt. 7.2mpg
    1500. 8knt. 7.0mpg
    And so on, all the way up to WOT.

    When we get to max achievable revs, we trim the engine up in increments until eventually the prop loses grip on the water, then quickly trim down a touch until it grips again. We record that as the max rpm at WOT. Don't worry, these great Suzuki engines all have rev limiters so you can't hurt the engine when the prop lets go.

    We then do the following other tests:
    1. a "hole shot" test where we time how long it takes to hit 5000rpm when we hit the throttle hard from idle speed. Hang on!

    2. We also record the minimum speed and rpm that the prop will hold the boat on the plane at. This is important for rough offshore weather where you can't go fast but want to keep the boat on the plane.

    3. Finally, we find the optimum cruise speed for fuel economy and record the revs, speed and fuel economy at that point.

    This data gives us the baseline we need to compare new props to. It is also incredibly useful data to provide to your Suzuki dealer or prop shop, as it will massively help them to recommend a better prop for your boat.


    Link to the sticky thread:
    https://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...the-right-prop

  14. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #14
    So I copied this from your article in the suzukioutboardforum


    You may rarely run your Suzuki at WOT (wide open throttle) but it needs to be capable of reaching max revs (or within 100-150rpm of that) at WOT to perform well - to achieve the best balance between speed, acceleration, fuel economy and engine life.

    If your engine will only reach the lower end of the rev range, say 5100 on an engine with a 5000-6000rpm range, then you are lugging the engine, putting too much load onto bearings and rods, using too much fuel, and you will reduce its serviceable life significantly. Not a good idea.

    That kinda answers my question on the powerband. I would consider wot spec of 5600-6200 as the powerband as in what rpm's is the maximum power generated for the DF140A

    Thanks
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


  15. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #15
    While waiting for the dealer to get a 3x14x17 prop in stock i am thinking of installing a depth finder that will interface with the DF140A motor functions. Any recommendations?
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #16
    Lowrance and Simrad offer advantages with Suzukis that cannot be matched by other brands.

    In the Lowrance range, it needs to be Elite Ti, Ti2 or Elite FS models. Or any HDS model from gen 1 to current Live models.

    Simrad - any NSS model or GO series displays.

    What gauges do you currently have? Analogue, or digital? If color digital gauges, which ones - C-10 (square corners) or SMG4 (rounded corners)?

    This will determine how to proceed from this point and I can then explain what is needed.

  17. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #17
    the boats gauges are analogue. Speedometer, volts, fuel, tack and a caution system guage that has indicator lights for temp,oil and revs. There is also a depth guage
    20210506_064853.jpg
    I was looking at the Lowrance Elite 7 Ti. I don't want a large screen and a 7" unit fits the space available
    Last edited by Coach185; 05-06-2021 at 06:32 AM.
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #18
    Ok.

    This all ONLY works thru a NMEA2000 network.

    With analogue gauges you will need:

    1 x Suzuki engine interface cable. This is the core of the system and it takes raw data from the engine and converts it to NMEA2000 so it can be displayed on digital gauges or displays such as the Lowrance etc.

    There are 2 choices as to which model you can use. The standard V 3.5.07 software cable will work. Or, the “Suzuki Connect” interface cable will give you everything that the standard cable gives, plus it will display engine fault codes, alarms and service reminders on the Lowrance or Simrad display. Eg rather than just getting a beep code or flashing lights, the display will say what the fault is eg “Water in fuel” and so on.

    1 x SDS adapter cable. This cable plugs into the SDS plug on the engine and runs back into the boat and up to the dash. Then the interface cable connects to it there. So you understand, the engine ecu outputs analogue data via the standard harness plug, and digital data via the SDS plug. Since you have and want to keep the analogue gauges, we need to run a separate cable from the SDS plug on the engine up to the dash to get the digital data up there so it can feed into the NMEA2000 network via the interface cable, and from there, onto the Lowrance display. In the USA, Suzuki sells a short cable about 4ft long, which IMO is madness because its barely long enough to get from the engine back into the transom. Here in Australia they sell a 6 metre long (20ft approx) version that is perfect. I would recommend that you buy the short cable, cut it in half and solder in an extension. No special wire is needed, just something of similar gauge. Heat shrink the joins.

    1 x NMEA2000 starter kit. If you already have a NMEA2000 network on the boat you can add to it and will just need an additional T and a drop cable to go from that T to the new display. The interface cables come with their own T’s.

    The install is easy. Just set up the network backbone behind the dash, run the SDS cable from engine to dash, connect the interface cable to the other end and plug the interface into a network T. Connect the new display to another T and connect network power to the last T.

    Once its all physically connected, you can use the Lowrance or Simrad display to configure the network and set it up to suit the boat eg # of engines and fuel tank capacity.

    Need any more info just ask.

  19. Member Coach185's Avatar
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    #19
    ok, great info. I spoke with another dealership yesterday (not the dealership I got the boat from) and they told me there would be a plug already installed behind the dash to plug in a depth finder.
    From what I am understanding from your post that plug will not give me full engine data?
    2003 Stratos 185, Yamaha V150LTRB, Tempest Plus 25P


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    #20
    Correct. There may be a power connection behind the dash that can be used to power the sonar/chartplotter, but not for engine data.

    Extremely unlikely that they would have already installed the SDS adapter cable and interface without being asked, and without charging!!

    FYI the following Engine data is transmitted to network by Suzuki 4 strokes.

    RPM, alternator voltage, engine temperature, engine hours, trim, fuel flow rate, fuel used, seasonal fuel used, trip fuel used. Engine diagnostics, service reminders and alarms will display from the Suzuki Connect interface.

    Engines with Fly-By-Wire digital throttle control also get transmission gear.


    You can also get additional sensors including water speed, water pressure, fluid levels, and water temperature to add to your network or engine.

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