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2015 200 Pro XS, starts then dies
2015 200 Pro XS - 2B117555
I ran to a different spot yesterday with no issues. Fished for a bit then went to move and the motor would sorta start, run really rough almost like chugging then die. Same thing each time. Roughly two seconds or so. Shook really bad... just running super rough.
Been searching and working on it a little today. Based on searches, I immediately went to the tracker valve and removed it for inspection. Looks fine, no tears or holes. I do have a service manual I bought from Don at EuropeanAM and have been studying the DFI section.
I plan on removing the fuel filter and checking the VST once I get a removal tool as it will not budge. Very odd to me how it was running just fine then bam.
Anyone have a suggestion for fuel pressure gauge?
Anyone have any ideas on the issue?
EG
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Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator
Check belt, tensioner, air compressor.
Check air/fuel pressures, and record results for:
-Cranking (4 seconds)
-5/10/15 seconds after you stop cranking
(this would normally be idle, under acceleration, 5/10/15 seconds after SHUTDOWN... hard to do if it won't run).
Check remaining BASICS: Compression, Spark, Fuel Quality, Maintenance History/Needs
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Ok, finally was able to do a little troubleshooting. Belt, tensioner, air compressor are good.
Fuel pressure is not good. As a matter of fact I heard loud air sounds from back of motor and have verified that the air regulator is venting pressure through the holes and it's a mist of fuel in it. So does that tell me that my fuel regulator diaphragm is shot?
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Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator
If you have AIR and FUEL coming from the atmospheric vent holes in the AIR pressure regulator, the Air Pressure Regulator diaphragm has failed. DO NOT attempt to run again as this poses a risk of FIRE or EXPLOSION (leaking fuel).
Replacement diaphragms are available, but it is VERY important that the correct Special Tool be used when disassembling/reassembling the Regulator.
Pressures must also be verified with an extremely accurate gauge (or high-speed pressure transducer).
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Don, ok got air diaphragm replaced as it was blown pretty bad. Had a good dealer do the work. He said everything looked good for pressures and no other issues found.
He did warn me that it was running rough at idle especially when cold. We figured it was the plugs as they were really wet with fuel in the air. I changed the plugs out with a set I had changed at 200 hrs. It's still not running just right at idle. Seems to run great anywhere else.
He felt like it would clean up after running it some. Today wasn't enough and makes we wonder if something else isn't right at idle.
Ideas?
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Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator
Provided that the Air and Fuel pressures are "Spot On":
New plugs and a good dose of Quickleen- run at 3500-4800 RPM's for at least 30 minutes, and then see how the idle quality is.
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Thanks Don. Got a new set of plugs on the way. We ran it a decent amount the last few days and it still doesn't run smooth at idle. Is it possible that a piece of the air diaphragm found it's way into the injectors?
Seems to run smooth everywhere except idle. I pulled the plugs and they look good, nice and dry.
Eric
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Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator
Not "impossible" but quite rare. I might have seen it once or twice that I can think of, and the complaints were not about idle quality.
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It seems that something is still not right. I have a new set of plugs, properly gapped and also had the direct injectors flow tested and cleaned. No issues found with direct injectors btw. Ran it for 30 minutes around 4k. No issues, smooth as silk.
Seems to be most noticeable when it's cold and warming up, but still seems to stumble sometimes when warm. What really bothers me is it has stumbled and died a couple of times now. It has never done that before.
Not exactly sure where to look next.
Eric
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Below is a video of a cold start and warmup. Notice the stumbling early on and scattered through out, but especially a few harder stumbles at 1:54-2:06. If those stumbles are just a little bit more it will die.
Eric
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Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator
Keyboard and monitor are often misleading when it comes to trying to diagnose such conditions.
I would be looking very carefully at the belt, tensioner (check tensioner to make sure it holds at least 70 lbs/in torque), verifying that both banks were coming up to at least 120 degrees F (check in middle of thermostat housing), and inspecting the DIRECT INJECTORS to make sure that the o-rings are in place, un-damaged, AND THAT THE BUMPER/WASHERS are in place between the injector and the cylinder head.
Sure sounds like something inside the cowling is "clicking" (almost sounds like a DI that's moving in and out).
If no problems are found above: Check CPS, lower flywheel teeth for rust or flaking paint, and inspect REEDS.