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  1. #1
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    How do you know when you need to wet sand your top cap?

    I have a 2007 Skeeter with some oxidation. It's not all over the top cap, but I'd say about 75% of it has some oxidation.

    I've seen people wet sand fiberglass hulls before, and I've been told I can handle doing it myself. But, Ive also been told that you can use a good compound, a good polish and a goo wax to remove the oxidation. How do you know when to use one method vs the other?

    TIA
    Eric
    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    #2
    Hi Eric,

    I found that if you hit it with a heavy cutting compound and it looks nice for a month or two, then goes back, you need to wetsand. If it's metal flake you need to be wary of the thickness of the clearcoat. Breaking through that would ruin the whole process, steering you down the road of spraying clear gel.

    If you deem it necessary for wetsanding, start with a finer paper, gradually going coarser and coarser until it cuts off your oxidization, then follow up to at least 1000 grit. I would hit it with a heavy compound, then a polish, then a wax. This will give you a nice base to start with, from which you can polish it as required.

    Hope that helps!

  3. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #3
    Can not give you good “usable” information without a least a couple of pics of what you have....
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    #4
    This is about the best pic I have of the oxidation...oxidation.jpgoxidation.jpg
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  5. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #5
    Compound will not fix what I see in the pic....it will need sanding. Several rounds. Can’t tell if you have some cracking goin on there or if they’re scratches...?
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    #6
    Looks like cracks and deep scratches. I agree with crank68, there's going to be some heavy sanding required.

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    #7
    Thanks for the advice. I was prepared to sand it but wanted to make sure I was overdoing it. What grit sand paper would you start with? 1000? I've heard 800, but everyone seems to do something different. I was planning 1000, then 1500, and 2000. There's metal flake too, so I've heard going to 3000 isn't out of the question.
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  8. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #8
    There’s no way anyone can tell you what paper to start with just by the pics on here. I do this everyday and every boat and it’s finish or lack there of is different. I would need to see more of the boat (even a vid) in order to give “usable” advice instead of taking a stab at it. I see that happen here a lot. If you need additional help I will do my best to point you in the correct direction. Text or email pics if you’d like.
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    #9
    Thanks crank, I'll try and go over Wednesday and take a better video of it since I'm off. Is there a temperature where you wouldn't do wet sanding, polishing or waxing?
    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    #10
    Man. Mine was horrible, it sat outside for its whole 36 years lol. Its was so rough, it wore out 400grit before it did any good. I ended up dropping down to 200, then 400, 600, 800,1000,1500,then finally 2000. And it still didn't turn out great, but waaay better than it was before.

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    #11
    The funny thing is, mine isn't rough all over, just in a few spots. It's honestly smooth except for a spot on the port rear and some scratches starboard bow area. The quote I got from a local shop said no wet sanding. I wasn't so sure. They're the best in Cincinnati, or so I'm told. Haynes Fiberglass repair. I've been told by my friends who have done it, that I can handle this. I can afford a shop to do it, but I'm also a DIY guy. Honestly, I'm just going to do it. I just want some idea wear to start. I'm going to post some more pictures, but it rained last night and I don't think it shows it real well.
    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    A great fisherman lives here with the catch of his life!

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    #15
    Looks like most of that could be tackled with rubbing and polish compounds. But some of that you might want to hit with some 1000 grit to speed up a little

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    #16
    Just my 2 cents but i use vaseline. Petroleum jelly
    Wipe it on thin coat wipe it off while polishing
    Doesnt last all that long but it sure shines and the only cost is elbow grease
    Oh you can wax over it too

    If you use a compound or abrasive your removing more of the gel coat

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    #17
    I don't know where you need to start, but I wet sand up to 5000. Sandpaper is cheap and it makes finishing out so much easier when you take it a couple steps past 2000.

  18. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #18
    Warpath...from the pics, a few rounds of sanding and buffing and you’ll be in business. Here is a pic of a Skeeter that I did a test spot on that’s about the same blue as yours....call me if needed and I’ll try to steer to the result you’re lookin for.

    DB00CDDB-2C8C-4F60-A975-B7AE0988EC6D.jpeg
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    #19
    He has Flake in the finish. My 2 cents, cheaper for a Pro to be paid to fix finish now than DIY'er sanding into Flake. Once you sand off the clear it's gelcoat time. Much more costly to have done. If you have experience doing Cut & Polish fine but if you don't from my experience this hull will be very easy to "Cut Through" to the point requiring gelcoat. From the pictures, the scratching is almost through what clear is there. Flake is not buried deep.