Tomball, Etoile, Milam TX -SAM RAYBURN & TOLEDO BEND
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32
New to the family! 1998 202 dc with 225 efi
New member to the ChampioN Family! Pulled the trigger on this 1998 202 DC with a 2001 Mercury 225 EFI, and a 2016 EZloader trailer this weekend. Going to the Champion from a 1998 Skeeter zx210c with a 225 Yamaha Vmax. I think she is beautiful. Never had a metal flake boat before. The skeeter looks so flat in comparison. There are some bumps, dings and scratches. Couple of knicks on the underside of the hull where you can just barely see some fiberglass. Those can be fixed diy style, right? What do you suggest? New carpet, but needs seats and windshields. older Motorguide trolling motor. Engine was dirtier than expected under the cowling, but no chance to water test. Had to take the guys word for it that it runs strong, and recently maintained as you would want it to be. Looks like newer batteries, although there are 2 red top Optimas for the trolling motor and accessories. I thought those were supposed to be starting batteries? Custom wheels, and good tires on the trailer with brakes, etc. snatched it up for 8,500.00. Did I get a good deal, or is that spot on? Anyways, looking forward to reading others posts and trying to contribute in any way that I can!
8500? I offered the guy 10,000. He countered 10.5 and I was going to get it as soon as you left yesterday if you didn’t buy. He was asking 12.5. If there are no skeletons in the closet, 8500 is a great deal
You are right, not the original trailer, but it fits the boat nicely in my opinion. Looked like somebody replaced the actual “ball grabber” don’t know what it’s called. But other than that, the trailer was a big part of the purchase for me. I feel like my skeeter trailer has made me grow to dislike my skeeter. Maybe that’s why I was on the hunt for another older boat in as good as condition as I could find for under 13,000. I LOVE the metal flake. To answer your question, I wasn’t OMG impressed with the boat when I first walked up to it. It looked HUGE in his photos, but it seemed small to me in person compared to the my Skeeter. It also didn’t help that it was totally in the shade because the guy was storing it in an boat/rv lot. No roof over the boat. But did have an OLD canvas well fitted cover. The shade from the RVs did not do the boat justice. There are at least 4-5 pinky nail size ding/nicks on the hull that are showing jus a bit of fiberglass. The jack plate area was much uglier (not as clean as it should be) and the plastic on the merc didn’t look good either. But I guess I was spoiled 7 years ago when I bought my Skeeter with a 98 Yamaha, and it looked awesome inside and out. Carpet was great, the center storage needs a hinge replacement, and NO electronics. The motorguide is def 98-2002 at best.
If the merc doesn’t check out great at the outboard mechanic, I had thoughts of swapping it and controls, etc with my 98 Yamaha 225 off the skeeter. Anybody have any clue of what that might cost?
Way cheaper than a new motor! I had a OX66 Yami and it was fantastic while I owned it. I wanted a Yami when I bought my Champ, but I couldn’t find one. I’m a bit surprised that your Skeeter doesn’t have metal flake, I had a 2000 model with flake. Wonder if certain models just didn’t have it?
With the nicks on the hull, check out Marine Tex. I think “might be wrong” it comes in gray. Put a little on and wet sand it nice & smooth, don’t put too much on though; because it’s a beast to remove.
The TM might be ok, unless you want a spotlocker. Those old MG’s were pretty decent.
Hey Greg, I am also new here but not new to champions (love them) I think you got a great deal if the engine is strong like the seller told you.You asked how much to swap out engines....in my experience it is always more than what you think. Gel- coat repair on a flake boat is tricky. My advice is to get some gelcoat paste and try to color match as close as you can to the base. Keep your repairs as small as possible wet sand and for the most part you wont notice it. I would not use marine tex or any other epoxy based material as it is super hard to sand and polish and unless you are a body man, you will wind up with a noticeable patch. Trolling motors. My 95 181 came with a minn kota 24v cable steer and it was a great TM. I wanted to have spot lock and heading lock as I do a lot of flipping and also fish structure in open water. I bought the motorguide Xi3 with GPS. I am very disappointed with it. I have made it work for me because I cant afford to purchase something new right now. Maybe others can "steer" you in the right direction for a TM enjoy!
Includes silver metal flake and the seller is throwing in some red flake for free. I hope it works good enough to at lease seal up the naked fiberglass dings.
Camp, this boat should have a new transom. It was at Classic Fiberglass when I looked at this boat for my dad 2.5 years ago. The owner was very inconsistent (just as barbarian mentioned above) and couldn't get his ducks in a row for 3 months after we agreed on a price fair for both of us.
However, it is one of the prettiest color combos I've ever seen in person. I'd get those chips taken care of and then give it a good wet sand, buff, and polish.
As for the motor, both the Merc EFI and OX66 seem to be most dependable motors ever built. It's a toss up for preference there.
With either you'll be 70-72 with 2 people tourney ready and 72-74 with just you loaded.
A worked 26 Tempest + is a bad dude on that 225 Merc.
$8,500 is a hella good deal with the new transom AND trailer, even if the motor needs an overhaul and other cosmetic items, too.
Wow! Thanks IRONMAN. That little gem of information you passed along really puts my mind and pocketbook at ease! I’m only in 50 bucks on the diy gel kit. Maybe I should get all of this done professionally. I’ve never patched, wet sanded, buffed, or polished anything...ever. There are some hairline cracks, and some scratches on the top cap as well. Also lots of ugly matte scuff marks running front to back on the underside of the hull. I guess a decent shop could take care of all of those problems for me? I wonder about how much that would cost...
Don't sweat the little things. Gelcoat repair is crazy expensive for an invisible repair, especially metal flake. Seal in any chips with exposed laminate with whatever material you have, then use the boat for a season. That will give you a chance to prioritize which areas you want to spend money on.
Just my two cents.
CampKeystone-if the boat is in good shape structurally, you got a great deal I.M.H.O. on one of the best bass boats ever made. I had a 1994 Champion 190DC/Evinrude 200 Intimadator for several years that I totally rebuilt the engine after one cylinder blew. It happened a second time 4 years later and was looking for another engine to re-power, when I found a 1997 Champ 202DC in good condition with a Yamaha Pro-V 200 for a little more than what I could find a good used Outboard. Needless to say I bought it and sold the 190 Champ for the same amount I paid for it 6 years earlier even with the blown motor. If you have not read Pat Goff's "The Champion world according to Pat Goff" posted at the top of the Champion page, it is very interesting and informative on the history of these boats!
A lot of folks tackle wet sanding themselves, but me personally, I'd take it somewhere reputable and let them handle it. No need to try and fix something you're not completely comfortable doing.
The scuffs will go away and the actual scratches will be minimal once complete. The smoothness and clarity will come back, too.
You'll be somewhere in the $500-$1500 range depending on how much you want done. The hairline cracks (also called stress cracks) are extremely common in the Champ world and aren't worth the money to fix.
Thanks for the info Cast and Ironman. Update: I contacted Chris at Classic Fiberglass, and Ironman was correct...the boat does have a new transom although it was more like 2014-15 according to Chris. I also think that I will take Big Lake’s advice and do some quickie patches myself, and sleep on it for a season while I figure out what I want to do about graphs and trolling motor. Oh, I was going to plastidip spray the jackplate...anybody know of any reason why I should not do that?
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I hope it works good enough to at lease seal up the naked fiberglass dings.
