i found youtube to be great for drywall tips.
i found youtube to be great for drywall tips.
Call a professional, i have tried many times to repair drywall, i suck at it really bad.
Joefish
2007 Ranger 178DVS
Evinrude ETEC 150
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Scrape off those caulk ridges with a taping knife. Seal the brown paper with shellac (original BIN primer) - it will dry in an hour and you can get this done before game time. Two choices of compound: premix joint compound = "regular mud" or EZ Sand = "hot mud". The first coat of regular mud will take nearly all day to dry with a fan on it. EZ Sand (get the 20 minute product if you're fast and fearless) will set up quickly, and allow successive coats to be completed within the hour. Products like plaster of paris or Durabond are nearly impossible to sand out. First coat (with a 12" or wider knife or flat trowel) - cover everything completely with the thinnest coat possible. Next coat(s) - scrape off any ridges and apply the thinnest coat that bridges the high areas of the preceding coat, feathering out to zero thickness at the perimeter. Use a cushion-backed sanding block to sand the dry repair.
Just show up to the paint store when they open. They’ll be a half drunk from the night before painter who rolls in. They are pretty easy to spot. Just offer him a case of his favorite brew or a bag of pot. Affordable for a man on a fixed income. Insurance? Man, your asking to many questions! Trust me, he will get you taken care of. Now if you want really straight lines, go ahead and give him that case before he starts. Bout the time that shellac kicks in, his hands won’t be shaking so much anymore. Then give him a referral on BBC when he’s finished!
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
The original cheap drunk. When I was a greenhorn they sent me to varnish some shelving in an enclosed area. Gave me shellac for the sanding sealer. Spent an hour in there and then an hour outside sobering up. Finished up and went to another job. Parked my vehicle and was still walking drunk.
I would take a razor knife and straight edge score the paper all the way around the area about 1 1/2" above where the paper is ripping then scrape the paper this gives it a stopping point then prime and mud with a 12" knife. Good luck and dont play with the mud make thin pass if it has ridges so what take a the knife knock them down and reply mud until you have it the way you want it last coat you can always take a wet sponge and rub the uneven places smooth.
Semper Fi
A heavy coat of shellac will soak into the paper and when it dries, it prevents blisters. Making it ready to mud. If you only use mud, you will fight blisters coat after coat.
Marks Props 317-398-9294, 1850 East 225 South, Shelbyville, Indiana 46176 propellerman59@gmail.com http://www.marksprops.com/index.html
Semper Fi
IIRC, pay a pro for his expertise, not how fast he says he can do it.
Good rate of pay, per BBC, is $150/hr. Expect this project to take a professional somewhere in the 12-20hr range.
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"If God had intended us to drink beer, He would have given us stomachs."
-David Daye
Don't bother me, I'm screwing for virginity.
I killed a 12-pack just to watch it die.
I have a roll of 3' wide mesh for repairs like that. Cover over the whole area where the vanity was with the mesh then skim coat. Never had a problem with any of my repairs.
It's also good to keep a roll around for larger repairs where instead of 4 pieces of tape on the seams you cover the whole patch. Small repairs I california patch them.
In the end there is no right or wrong in how the repair is done as long as the finish product looks like there was never a repair.
1996 ProCraft 185 DC Pro, Mercury EFI 150