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  1. #1
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    Humminbird power re-wiring

    Good morning BBC'ers,

    I have recently experienced some issues with my Solix Mega SI 12 most likely related to power. In doing some research have found that wiring could potentially be an issue. While I am adept at most wiring, electrical, connection issues (former F-16 Avionics Technician), I was unaware of the massive power draw these units have during my initial rigging. I ran connections from the previously installed terminal block to the units.

    What I have found is that most people have resorted to running dedicated wire to their units using either 6, 8, or 10 gauge wire from the battery to a terminal block of some sort and then running a wire (mostly 10 gauge) to the unit. This will supposedly allow for the least amount of voltage drop from the battery to the unit. I have read some different configurations but this seems to be common.

    So here are my questions......

    Does a terminal block (one like the Blue Sea Systems) provide any voltage drop? If so how much?

    If you were to NOT use a terminal block, what kind of connections are being used between the wire running from the battery and the small power cable to the unit....solder?.....crimp?

    If soldering, is there a specific technique for soldering a bigger gauge wire (6,8,10) to the small 18 gauge (I think its 18 gauge) power cable that plugs to the unit?

    Is anyone shortening the power cable that plugs to the unit? If so how much?


    I'm just looking for some insight on what others are doing and what success or failures they've had.

    Thanks!
    Justin

  2. Member Wayne P.'s Avatar
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    #2
    The issue is RESISTANCE. That increases due to total wire length and why you use larger conductors than the unit power cord when you EXTEND the power cord to connect to the battery.
    Also splices and terminal connections need to the solid so there is no added resistance.

    The power cord itself is plenty large for the load and its length, do not need to shorten it. Look at the size of a fuse element, very small, but very short.
    Wayne Purdum
    Charlottesville, Va.
    Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
    SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
    MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL

  3. Member
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    #3
    Understood on the resistance.

    I am trying to figure out if I am going to use a terminal block or not and whether or not I am going to crimp connections or solder. Whichever one I use will be up to spec and I am confident in my abilities on both.

    I wasn't planning on shortening the power cable to the Solix. Just curious if anyone else had any experience with that.

    Thanks
    Justin

  4. Member Wayne P.'s Avatar
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    #4
    The perfect installation is a fuse panel at the console and at the bow. That way you don't have to splice in a fuse holder in each load circuit and add more potential resistance.
    Wayne Purdum
    Charlottesville, Va.
    Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
    SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
    MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL

  5. Member
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    #5
    My rig is in Kilgore Tx.
    Last time I had a discussion with the skeeter rep in Tx. Skeeter is now running 2 home-run connections

    to the cranking battery from the Helm and Bow. For those experiencing problems, they suggest running
    2 batteries in series on the crank side. It's 10 ga. Mine has a spade fuse inline on the positive line before
    it hits the unit's power wire. I'd add a pic but my boat is at the factory. Good Luck

  6. Member
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by OK_BassBum View Post
    My rig is in Kilgore Tx.
    Last time I had a discussion with the skeeter rep in Tx. Skeeter is now running 2 home-run connections

    to the cranking battery from the Helm and Bow. For those experiencing problems, they suggest running
    2 batteries in series on the crank side. It's 10 ga. Mine has a spade fuse inline on the positive line before
    it hits the unit's power wire. I'd add a pic but my boat is at the factory. Good Luck
    Thanks for your input!

  7. Member
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    #7
    nitsuj, It's pricey but a good solution. https://www.precisionsonar.com/produ...wiring-harness

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by OK_BassBum View Post
    nitsuj, It's pricey but a good solution. https://www.precisionsonar.com/produ...wiring-harness
    I have looked in to that a little. I am confident enough I can make that same harness myself for a lot cheaper. I am also not a fan of the twist connections. Great concept though.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne P. View Post
    The perfect installation is a fuse panel at the console and at the bow. That way you don't have to splice in a fuse holder in each load circuit and add more potential resistance.
    Thanks for the input Wayne. I will definitely consider this.