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  1. #1
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    Nov 2015
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    Humminbird power re-wiring

    Good morning BBC'ers,

    I have recently experienced some issues with my Solix Mega SI 12 most likely related to power. In doing some research have found that wiring could potentially be an issue. While I am adept at most wiring, electrical, connection issues (former F-16 Avionics Technician), I was unaware of the massive power draw these units have during my initial rigging. I ran connections from the previously installed terminal block to the units.

    What I have found is that most people have resorted to running dedicated wire to their units using either 6, 8, or 10 gauge wire from the battery to a terminal block of some sort and then running a wire (mostly 10 gauge) to the unit. This will supposedly allow for the least amount of voltage drop from the battery to the unit. I have read some different configurations but this seems to be common.

    So here are my questions......

    Does a terminal block (one like the Blue Sea Systems) provide any voltage drop? If so how much?

    If you were to NOT use a terminal block, what kind of connections are being used between the wire running from the battery and the small power cable to the unit....solder?.....crimp?

    If soldering, is there a specific technique for soldering a bigger gauge wire (6,8,10) to the small 18 gauge (I think its 18 gauge) power cable that plugs to the unit?

    Is anyone shortening the power cable that plugs to the unit? If so how much?


    I'm just looking for some insight on what others are doing and what success or failures they've had.

    Thanks!
    Justin

  2. Member
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    #2
    I'm interested in this same issue. I plan to use the Blue sea terminal blocks for both HB's with 10 awg from the battery to the the terminal, and ring lugs on each end. Hoping to not have any resistance. With that I am contemplating a dedicated battery only for the graphs.I think interference is the main problem with imaging.

  3. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #3
    Run a dedicated 8 or 10ga wire from the battery to a separate fuse block either under the console or in the front locker. Then run a 12ga wire to each graph from individual fused connections on the block.
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  4. Member
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by wmitch2 View Post
    Run a dedicated 8 or 10ga wire from the battery to a separate fuse block either under the console or in the front locker. Then run a 12ga wire to each graph from individual fused connections on the block.
    Thanks for the input. When you connected the 12ga wire to the power wire for your unit did you crimp or solder? What unit do you run?

    Thanks
    Justin

  5. Member
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    #5
    I have a similar setup using a Blue Seas fuse box in the STBD rod locker. Used 8ga to the panel and then 10ga to the graphs. That may be a little overkill for my current set of graphs but should handle any future needs. The HB power cord was shortened by 12-16" in my case but that can vary according to installation needs. Based on the length of the HB power cord, you wouldn't gain or lose any significant power whether you shorten it or not. You may want to keep adequate length in case of any future needs though. I soldered the connection with shrink tubing over it. Be sure to tie wrap or secure cable runs where possible.
    Wes
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  6. Member
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    Texakana, AR
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    #6
    Most of my rigging for optimal performance with the larger graphs included a fuse panel and junction blocks. The 8ga wire, both pos and neg (usually red and black) would run to the fuse block (like pictured above) It's alright to use crimp on connections, but make sure you have good crimpers and know how properly to crimp. The 8g wire would carry in the 50A range to the fuse block, so you don't want to have output over 50A. If you fuse to the wire, the fuse sizes will be your max output. You will also want some type of breaker on the positive wire at the battery. From the fuse block, 12ga wire to the junction block. Again, ring terminals properly crimped to connect these to the junction block. The accessory wires will come to the other side of the junction block and use properly crimped ring terminals. The screw connections will provide a secure connection with minimal voltage drop. At the fuse box, you will want to fuse 12ga wire with 20A maximum fuse. At the terminal block you will fuse the appliance appropriately for the wire size it uses. You can connect multiple units, individually fused, to the 12ga terminal block as long as you don't go over the load of 20A.
    John

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ezfishn View Post
    I have a similar setup using a Blue Seas fuse box in the STBD rod locker. Used 8ga to the panel and then 10ga to the graphs. That may be a little overkill for my current set of graphs but should handle any future needs. The HB power cord was shortened by 12-16" in my case but that can vary according to installation needs. Based on the length of the HB power cord, you wouldn't gain or lose any significant power whether you shorten it or not. You may want to keep adequate length in case of any future needs though. I soldered the connection with shrink tubing over it. Be sure to tie wrap or secure cable runs where possible.
    Thanks for the input!

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by John Jones JTM View Post
    Most of my rigging for optimal performance with the larger graphs included a fuse panel and junction blocks. The 8ga wire, both pos and neg (usually red and black) would run to the fuse block (like pictured above) It's alright to use crimp on connections, but make sure you have good crimpers and know how properly to crimp. The 8g wire would carry in the 50A range to the fuse block, so you don't want to have output over 50A. If you fuse to the wire, the fuse sizes will be your max output. You will also want some type of breaker on the positive wire at the battery. From the fuse block, 12ga wire to the junction block. Again, ring terminals properly crimped to connect these to the junction block. The accessory wires will come to the other side of the junction block and use properly crimped ring terminals. The screw connections will provide a secure connection with minimal voltage drop. At the fuse box, you will want to fuse 12ga wire with 20A maximum fuse. At the terminal block you will fuse the appliance appropriately for the wire size it uses. You can connect multiple units, individually fused, to the 12ga terminal block as long as you don't go over the load of 20A.
    John
    Thanks for the input!

    So you use a fuse block and a terminal block?

    I am going to take everything apart this weekend on mine and see what I have going on. I know there is a bigger gauge wire running to a junction block ( 8 or 10). Then my power cable from the Solix is wired to that junction block (with fuse in between).

    I do know that my Ethernet box is wired to that same junction block. I am not sure how much power that is using.

    I have experienced the problem I am having twice. First time was when I upgraded to the Solix and the battery didn't have the capability to support it (Exide Group 24). Got a new battery in January (Everstart from Walmart Group 29). Worked fine until last time out and transducer locked up again.

    I also have a Helix 9 Mega and never have issues with it.

    Thanks

  9. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by nitsuj378 View Post
    Thanks for the input. When you connected the 12ga wire to the power wire for your unit did you crimp or solder? What unit do you run?

    Thanks
    Justin
    I always crimp, and add shrink wrap to protect from moisture.

    I run an Lowrance LMS520 in the dash (Came with the boat when new) and a Raymarine Axiom 9rv along the side and a Raymarine ES7 at the bow with the DownScan transducer added to the TM.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  10. Member electritek's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by John Jones JTM View Post
    Most of my rigging for optimal performance with the larger graphs included a fuse panel and junction blocks. The 8ga wire, both pos and neg (usually red and black) would run to the fuse block (like pictured above) It's alright to use crimp on connections, but make sure you have good crimpers and know how properly to crimp. The 8g wire would carry in the 50A range to the fuse block, so you don't want to have output over 50A. If you fuse to the wire, the fuse sizes will be your max output. You will also want some type of breaker on the positive wire at the battery. From the fuse block, 12ga wire to the junction block. Again, ring terminals properly crimped to connect these to the junction block. The accessory wires will come to the other side of the junction block and use properly crimped ring terminals. The screw connections will provide a secure connection with minimal voltage drop. At the fuse box, you will want to fuse 12ga wire with 20A maximum fuse. At the terminal block you will fuse the appliance appropriately for the wire size it uses. You can connect multiple units, individually fused, to the 12ga terminal block as long as you don't go over the load of 20A.
    John
    Excellent advice!


    2020 Ranger 521L Tour, 300 Mercury, 112 Minn Kota Ultrex
    3 12" Helix Units, Mega Si, Mega Di, Mega 360, Garmin 8412 W LiveScope mounted on Rite Hite Turret.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by nitsuj378 View Post
    Good morning BBC'ers,

    I have recently experienced some issues with my Solix Mega SI 12 most likely related to power. In doing some research have found that wiring could potentially be an issue. While I am adept at most wiring, electrical, connection issues (former F-16 Avionics Technician), I was unaware of the massive power draw these units have during my initial rigging. I ran connections from the previously installed terminal block to the units.

    What I have found is that most people have resorted to running dedicated wire to their units using either 6, 8, or 10 gauge wire from the battery to a terminal block of some sort and then running a wire (mostly 10 gauge) to the unit. This will supposedly allow for the least amount of voltage drop from the battery to the unit. I have read some different configurations but this seems to be common.

    So here are my questions......

    Does a terminal block (one like the Blue Sea Systems) provide any voltage drop? If so how much?

    If you were to NOT use a terminal block, what kind of connections are being used between the wire running from the battery and the small power cable to the unit....solder?.....crimp?

    If soldering, is there a specific technique for soldering a bigger gauge wire (6,8,10) to the small 18 gauge (I think its 18 gauge) power cable that plugs to the unit?

    Is anyone shortening the power cable that plugs to the unit? If so how much?


    I'm just looking for some insight on what others are doing and what success or failures they've had.

    Thanks!
    Justin
    I shortened the small power lead to the Control Head as short as practical, maybe a foot or two spare.

    I ran a dedicated #8 feed to the console and a second dedicated #8 feed to the bow.

    The console I just spliced the power wires for the ethernet switch and Helix 12" to the Sea Clear wiring harness connectors with individual in line fuse holders (https://seaclearpower.com/product/se...iring-harness/)
    On the bow I connected the #8 feeders from the Sea Clear wiring harness to a Blue Sea 6 position fuse block with dedicated fuses for 12" Helix, 10" Helix and Mega 360.

    I will probably eventually change out the console to a Blue Sea fuse block like I used at the bow, most likely when I add a second Control Head.
    Last edited by RGK456; 11-19-2020 at 02:26 PM.