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  1. #1
    Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    Why does my gel seal keep failing

    I rebuilt my J150stlcem this spring after a ring in the #2 cylinder caught the exhaust port. I cleaned the 2 block halves probably not as good as I should have before I used a new bottle of 518 loctite. I ended up having a gel seal failure between the two block halves in the narrow passage by #4 bypass cover after 3 hours of break in. Ugh. I tore it back apart and did it right the second time, I thought. I removed all the gel seal, then I cleaned the block halves really well with acetone. I then used the loctite primer before applying the gel seal again. Which was another new bottle of 518 loctite. I finished my break in period and the motor has ran good all summer till today. It sneezed a couple times and I heard a whisp From under the cover. It’s done it again. It’s blown the seal out in the narrow passage by the #5 bypass cover seal. What do I need to do to keep from blowing the gel seal out?

  2. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier365V View Post
    I rebuilt my J150stlcem this spring after a ring in the #2 cylinder caught the exhaust port. I cleaned the 2 block halves probably not as good as I should have before I used a new bottle of 518 loctite. I ended up having a gel seal failure between the two block halves in the narrow passage by #4 bypass cover after 3 hours of break in. Ugh. I tore it back apart and did it right the second time, I thought. I removed all the gel seal, then I cleaned the block halves really well with acetone. I then used the loctite primer before applying the gel seal again. Which was another new bottle of 518 loctite. I finished my break in period and the motor has ran good all summer till today. It sneezed a couple times and I heard a whisp From under the cover. It’s done it again. It’s blown the seal out in the narrow passage by the #5 bypass cover seal. What do I need to do to keep from blowing the gel seal out?
    Check your mating surfaces good. I use nothing but OMC Gel Seal and primer. Are you cleaning out and chasing the holes and cleaning threads? Are you torqueing per the OMC manual and proper sequence and steps? I let mine sit 24 hours after assembly before running also.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  3. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #3
    Need to figure out why it is sneezing as well....

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  4. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #4
    BB741BDF-17F1-4381-8951-79D7DB739315.jpeg
    It seems to not seal in these areas where there is not very much surface area. All the holes were blown out and bolts torqued to the OMC manual. I used the primer before applying the loctite the second time. After torquing the bolts I let the block sit for 24 hours before I continued work. I had read where the loctite 518 was the same as the OMC gel seal. I guess I’ll look for OMC gel seal. Just getting frustrated.
    Last edited by Hoosier365V; 10-15-2020 at 08:28 AM.

  5. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #5
    What are you using for primer? I've never had a problem using either BRP Locquic or Loctite klean n prime 35709 with either Gel-Seal 2 or Loctite 518.

  6. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #6
    I used the loctite Klean N Prime.

  7. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #7
    The primer can says to apply to both mating surfaces, then wait 3-5 minutes for it to dry. I remember I sprayed it on liberally and it seemed to take forever to dry. Did I spray it on too thick? Also, when it started drying it had a fisheye look to it. Is that normal? I’ve never used it before.

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    #8
    Are you using OMC Gel Seal and Gasket Remover to get all traces of the old sealants off?

  9. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #9
    I cleaned it with acetone and used Loctite 518.

  10. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by omcforever View Post
    Need to figure out why it is sneezing as well....
    I believe the sneezing coincides when the chamber pressures up and has a whisp of pressure push out. What is odd is the “whisp” is not consistent. It may push pressure out then not do it again for a minute or so, or it may do it 2-3 times a minute.

  11. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #11
    Usually a sneeze is caused by a lean condition.....have you carbs been gone thru properly? Have idle orifices been changed? Has it done this since you have owned it?

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  12. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #12
    Are you sure it was a ring issue and not a different issue that took out the cylinder when she let go? A lot of times when people rebuild blown motors they never really address the underlying issue that causes it.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  13. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #13
    I’m thinking the lean condition is after it pressures up and pushes fuel mixture out between the two block halves. But I don’t know. I rebuilt the carbs when I rebuilt the motor this spring. I did not change any of the idle orifices. I did install snuffing boxes and Carlson Reeds. I don’t want to say it has always ran rough, but after the rebuild it ran so much smoother. I figured it was the reeds. The guy that fishes with me occasionally commented on how much smoother it sounded at a idle through mid-range.

  14. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier365V View Post
    I did install snuffing boxes and Carlson Reeds.
    Ask enough questions, finally get somewhere. When you installed the stuffers, you raised intake pressure and with reeds, better seal. If you did all this then idle orifices should be down sized 3-5 sizes and may have to raise mains a size or 2..

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  15. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #15
    Everycrossflow i have installed fiber reeds and/or stuffers, I have had to lower idle orifices and raise mains....lower your idle orifices to 32(if still sneezing go to 30 or 31) and raise mains to 67...your old crossflow will love you. When you change things in the motor that changes/raises compression/pressure/fuel flow, you have to make changes elsewhere,,,jetting.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  16. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #16
    I asked Chris Carson when I purchased the reeds and the stuffers if I would need to re-jet. He said no, “you do not have to rejet with our reeds and stuffer kits”. So you think re-jetting would lower my crankcase pressure keeping the gel seal from failing?

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by omcforever View Post
    Ask enough questions, finally get somewhere. When you installed the stuffers, you raised intake pressure and with reeds, better seal. If you did all this then idle orifices should be down sized 3-5 sizes and may have to raise mains a size or 2..
    what he said.....

  18. Member Hoosier365V's Avatar
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    #18
    Ok, so I just went and took a peek at my idle jets. I have 4- 38’s and 2- 34’s. I found a new set of 6 - #0322776 on eBay. I’m assuming those are #32’s. What do you think? Give them a try?

  19. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Hoosier365V View Post
    Ok, so I just went and took a peek at my idle jets. I have 4- 38’s and 2- 34’s. I found a new set of 6 - #0322776 on eBay. I’m assuming those are #32’s. What do you think? Give them a try?
    Your idle orifices all should be .035 from factory and mains should be .065

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

  20. Ohio Fishing Reports Moderator omcforever's Avatar
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    #20
    I would go .032-.033 and see what happens...better rich than lean.

    Age and treachery will always overcome youth and skill !!

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