S/N: OT156680
Erratic tachometer, then trim affected rpm, then dead battery. I am going to test both regulators when I find method. Also curious about possible burn on upper regulator. I posted a pic of it with some brown matter on it as well a pic of the bottom one without. 3rd, is a pic of the rear windings on the stator that are halfway coated with a grey epoxy looking material. Is this correct? Thanks in advance. Mark.20201009_184925.jpg20201009_184936.jpg20201009_181146.jpg
When I zoomed in on the first picture above, I can see a crack in the regulator where the potting material "shot out" in both directions and when I zoomed in on the windings pic the white fluffy stuff appears to be as well.
_______
Phil
'09 Hewescraft ProV
'09 150 Optimax
The color of the stator windings is not a concern- those are IGNITION windings (whereas the larger ones that are totally copper colored windings are for the Charging System). Two separate circuits on the same plate, essentially.
Regulators are toast- will need to replace them. Check fuses also.
Wise to check resistance between each pair of yellow wires (at each regulator connector). Readings should be similar (on the stator side of the connector). Also check from each yellow wire to GROUND (these should be OPEN circuit, or INFINITE RESISTANCE).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thanks Phil. Yeah, I think that reg is toast.
I'm also thinking the stator is good. Performed resistance/continuity tests and it passed. Hopefully fine under load.
What are your thoughts on CDI products? That is the only supplier with the correct electrical connectors that I can find.
I've used CDI for omc power packs and had good luck.
Thanks Don, I didn't see your reply when typing mine.
Resistance between stator leads to each reg was .4 on the 2k scale. None of the wires lead to ground so I hope we're good there.
Which fuses are you referring to? Location?
What are your thoughts on CDI. Ot looks like Quicksilver requires adapting new connectors from oem.
One last question. After getting motor running off jump pack, we headed up river. When voltage dropped to 11v on the gauge, engine lost power to almost shutting down before I could hook the pack back up and regain power. Engine won't run without battery power? Electronic safety device?
I can tell you Don will only recommend Mercury OEM regulators, as he is a Mercury dealer/Master technician. My thoughts on CDI is I read many times where they are bought and some of the new ones don’t work correctly out of the box but I’m sure many use them with success also. I also know some of the Mercury regulators have been redesigned with extra grounding and fuses. If mine go out I will use Mercury regulators.
Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
OT566776
2002 Cape Horn 22' Bay
Fuel pump, ECM and fuel injectors REQUIRE battery power to operate.Originally Posted by Champ201
Be very careful about "jumping" and running an engine as you've described above. There are some (relatively common) circumstances under which IGNITION components will be damaged by interrupting battery power while the engine is running (either by bad battery, poor connections, or connecting/disconnecting jump packs".
You will obviously do what you need to when it comes to getting off the water- but definitely avoid this where possible.
I would STRONGLY recommend the OEM Mercury/Quicksilver components when it comes to electronics (especially regulators).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Good to know Don, I could tell they were different than stator windings but not if they were actually defective, pictures don't always tell the whole story.
Champ, if were in your position, I'd follow Don's advice on the regulators.
_______
Phil
'09 Hewescraft ProV
'09 150 Optimax
Thanks everyone.
If Mercury/Quicksilver parts show all bullet connections, I guess this means I need to cut quick couplers off the factory harness and crimp bullets on? Why wouldn't an oem part have oem connections?
DO NOT cut anything from your harness. You are apparently looking at the WRONG PARTS- always lookup parts BY SERIAL NUMBER.
If you are looking at the CORRECT part (883072T2) it will have the CORRECT connectors.
Earlier models used a totally different configuration (though the part number was VERY close).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Got the right part numbers installed and it seems to be charging just fine. Maybe too fine? I wish I would've paid more mind to what the gauge read before, but I have the feeling I was only charging from 1 reg?
Anyhow, on the hose, gauge reads 14.5+ whether at idle or 1,500. What do you all think?20201022_163643.jpg
That's good. Of course, analog gauges are notoriously inaccurate, but it will at least let you know that it is charging.
If you want to test it accurately, use a DVOM connected at the battery (voltage should not exceed 14.6 VDC).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
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