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  1. #1
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    Jul 2019
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    Middle TN.
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    1987 189v stratos floor questions.

    So ive ran the boat hard for a year or so already.
    Before deciding to address my rotting floor and wet foam. It just kept gaining weight. Lol
    So all the foam is out and i was going to cut the stringers open and stuff with glass and resin.
    But the main 7inch tall one in the middle is worse then i thought. Ive cut out/ scraped out 5ft of it.
    (Going to add a piece of plywood back in it)
    The forward section is strong on top but i can see the discoloration on the bottom of it threw the glass. Rotten on bottom. 2 or 3 inches id guess. For another 4 ft or so forward.
    All the smaller side stringers are just mush inside.
    I drilled holes in them and its been covered for a few months with a fan running off and on. And There still wet. Pain in the ars.

    Am i looking at a plywood bottom in this boat? Looks like it threw the glass.
    So im thinking is it even worth it to cut the tops open on the small side stringers? I can only access a couple of ft of them anyway.
    Removing the top of the boat is not in my plains.
    How ever reaching under the seat area is limited.
    And way in the world are the stringer stopped at the front of the seat. And not conected under the seat with the ends left open to water and rot in the first place?
    Theres an inch gap for water to flow between them under the seat. So they dont seem very structural in that area anyway.
    I was going to tie them together and place a piece of rubber hose threw them. But i keep thinking if they made it that way and its made it this far. How much trouble do i really want to go to.
    And yes i know it a half ars restoration not to remove the top shell. But its had a temp floor laying on top the hole time ive had it. Looked fine and now that all that wet foam is out.
    Thinking im just ganna put in lathing strips on top of the stringers and under the consoles (to stablelize them. All glassed inplace and together. And lay the new floor back the same way the old one has been for years. On top.

    Now i wasn't going to put the foam back in.
    Im not worried about sinking. Never more then 100 yards from a shore around hear. How ever im betting that would add to the structure a little.
    Was thinking of running drains to the rear. Drill holes in the new floor and pore it in. ? Fill it all up.
    Yes closed cell.
    Its has an 235hp Rude on it. Needs a jack plate added. As of now there's no give in the transom at all. Seems solid best i can tell. No cracks no where. And no give if i lift up on the prop area trimmed all the way up.
    Ive got pics if any one wants to see them. If can figure out how to post them.
    Its a pretty good looking boat. Gel coats thin on top. Ive wet sanded and buffed. Gonna spray it with something clear before recarpeting.

  2. Member
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    #2

  3. Member
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    #3
    1601733884645295869346964392963.jpg16017340769163401016167338143800.jpg16017347541023685671929762896474.jpg

    And is this the best epoxy resin to use. My research lead me to this for mixing with rotten wood. And stuffing with glass.
    Wonder how many more gallons i need. Lol
    Last edited by Insanity; 10-03-2020 at 09:23 AM. Reason: because im posting off my phone. And im an idot.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Ok so ive about decided to run two new stringers to either side of the center one.
    And either patch or cut out the center stringer.
    Question?
    Can i just cut down the sides threw the glass and remove that section of board inside the stringer.
    Thats rotten. One inch of the bottom of it is so hard i can get it out without a chisel. And knowing me il drive that sucker threw the hull.
    Or i can thin resin and pore over it and then add new wood and stuff glass and resin in the side voids?
    If i slice it off. How much the old glass sides should i leave. Im guessing it would be best to leave say and 1/4 inch of the old there. Set new wood and fill void with glass and resin then rap glass over the top. Just like the old one?

    What would you do?
    Note im also exstending the front deck. My old center stringer looks good rite up to that point. Sure makes that easier. And less floor to brace up as it will never get stepped on. Its about 33 inches long.

  5. Member
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    May 2015
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    Kiln Mississippi
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    #5
    Bud you can't use "Boat Builder in a Can" to fix your problems. Without more pictures I can tell you the stringers should be replaced. They get replaced with plywood, cypress, or Coosa without hard bedding them to your hull. They "Float" so no hard edge is created for the hull to crack against. I prep the old glass slots where the stringers were so the epoxy I use to glue the replacement stringer cores in get purchase. You grind the outer glass then glass the new stringers in. If you don't want to pull the cap with the damage in the pictures cut all you can to get access to all the rot. A good replacement floor blocked to the replacement stringers with help stiffen your hull a bit more. You can get a idea from one of the ongoing I have how to proceed.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=1022839

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    #6
    So dont even bond the center stringer to the hull either? I Was thinking of setting it in peanut butter and 1/4 chop for a hell of a bond. Lol

    I seen a guy use little quarter inch pieces of foam under all his. And a bead of something that looked like liquid nail.
    If there just setting against it seems they would bump the bottom of the hull.
    Hull definitely flexs. I took it out for a quick easy rip. To see what it felt like with 150+ pounds of sopping wet foam plus the old floor out of it.
    Had a temp floor laying on top and as i turned around i let the waves calm and went back threw just ripples and i could feel the floor move under one of the small outside stringers. Gueshh so it supposed to move that much? Or moving due to rotten stringers i wonder.
    I want it as strong and as rite as i can get it.
    If i still had a shop id definitely pull the top off.
    Im thinking about running it down to my mechanic to get the cylinders looked at and a price on the motor. Getting low on compression. Since it needs a jack plate to lift the motor two more inches anyway. I might get him to just keep the motor for me so i can pull the cap.
    Dang why did i wait till fall/winter to do this. Lol

    Is there any chance that top will just lift rite off once its undone. Or will i be prying and cursing for a couple hrs like ive seen.

  7. Member
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    #7
    Bud I'm a Waterhead, I gave you the wrong link. Take a look at my ChampioN thread, it has the much better stringer explanation. Your hull should not be moving. The foam & liquid nails is to "Float" the stringer off the skin. If you have a hard edge against the skin and hit a stickup close to the hard edge the skin is much easier to crack against the hard edge. Different builders have different ways to float the stringer but all do it. Once your new stringers are epoxied in place and 1708 is wet out over the existing stringer encapsulation, the floor movement will be arrested. No if it is not, you venture into a builder at this point. I like to have some transverse stringers to shutdown longitudinal stringer "Roll" allowing the skin to flex inward. I also like to bed the replacement floor to the stringers with epoxy. If the floor floats 1-3in above stringers I will epoxy contact blocks between the sandwich at all stringer junctions as well as longitudinally, spacing out but not too far, this really shuts down flexing, and stringer "Roll". Study the stringer layout the manufacturer installed. If you don't think its adequate you can add to it. Think of your stringer system as the skeleton to which everything else is attached, rigidity in the stringers translates to rigidity in the hull. All hulls move but what amount and what force to make it move is the question. High speed boats take impacts from fairly light items but at their speeds kinetic force amplifies the trauma to the hull. This is where the structural engineers "Walk on Water" in my view, they engineer a composite lamination that will absorb and transfer, or redistribute, the kinetic energy so the skin does not crack from the impact.

    As far as pulling the cap, more than likely it will be bedded at the splashwell. Also it may or may not be tabbed in the storage areas. Back in the 90's a lot of caps had a flange that just screwed to the floor, these are the easiest to separate in my opinion. I'm posting my ChampioN link below for you. Read it as well as my VL100 post to give you some foundation & understanding of the considered project scope. I hope this helps.

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=934664

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Insanity View Post
    1601733884645295869346964392963.jpg16017340769163401016167338143800.jpg16017347541023685671929762896474.jpg

    And is this the best epoxy resin to use. My research lead me to this for mixing with rotten wood. And stuffing with glass.
    Wonder how many more gallons i need. Lol
    Don't know about that stuff. But if you don't use some good products , you be back in there soon'r than later . I used US Composite in Fla. They have every thing you going to need to do the job correct .
    They are fast shipping and has good advice what to use.