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  1. #1
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    How to Replace Clear Coat over Metal Flake

    I wanted ask what you can use when the surface is "to the point where if ya run your hand across the boat, you can "feel" the flakes in the fiberglass, which would mean there's not enough coating above the color/flake section to buff." as mentioned above by Polarcraft195 in the Stratos forum.

    Is clear coat available in spray cans? and is it the same as Rustoleum's "Clear Enamel"?? ( somehow I doubt it). There's one area on each side of my Stratos 201 Pro where the silver metal flake is coarse to the touich, it gets the most direct sunlight as it's an almost horizontal part of the hull. Much appreciate any tips.

  2. Member cart7's Avatar
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    #2
    I’ve never seen any boat that was sprayed with automotive clear coat that lasted much more than a year or so before it started flaking off looking even worse than it previously looked.
    You can re-gelcoat a boat but it’s very expensive.

  3. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #3
    There is no easy fix...to “fix” properly everything needs to be ground away, filled, based gel sprayed, flake/clear gel sprayed, clear gel sprayed. As always hard to give good usable advice without pics.
    BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
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    #4
    thanks, I'm getting an estimate from C&O Marine this week, really just need to get the silver stripe on each side done, it's about 5-6" wide and runs the length of the boat.

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    #5
    20200906_141122.jpgAttachment 426246

    First, the air horns were just a passing thought since they've just been laying around my shop. Didn't put them on. Now the silver stripe that runs front to rear on each side is the problem. It's feels like the gel is totally gone and I'm feeling the actual flake. Only this stripe is in this condition, and I believe that's because is't almost a horizontal surface and gets really direct sun. It really shines nicely, no damage or cuts to it, but it just doesn't have the glossy clear gel coat on it. My hope is that this stripe can be re-gel'ed without having to do the whole boat - the rest is in really good shape, amazing for an '89 model. Very grateful for your input, I just don't know anything about gel work. however if you ever needed a 25,000 line telephone system supporting 100 locations across your state, then I"m your guy!! btw the silver stripe is the one with the "201 Pro" decal on it, the silver metal flake down below that is in excellent shape. thanks again

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    #6
    Stratos 2 September 26 2020.jpg
    Here's a shot showing the length of the stripe.

  7. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #7
    By the pic I doubt you’re feeling the flake. You’re prolly feeling the unevenness of the clear gel that’s left. As it oxidizes/deteriorates the clear takes the shape of the flake thats under it. I really think your boat can be sanded a few rounds and it would be good. Again, I am basing this off the pics....
    BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
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    #8
    Thanks Crank68, that's good news and I think you're probably right: I spent a lot of time over the weekend with it and the sliver flake area really smoothed out, this was by using Meguiar's Fine Cut and Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a 10 inch buffer. The solid color dark blue down on the side of the hull had become cloudy/milky looking but now after the work it's a perfectly beautiful glossy dark blue. I'll post some before and after pics tomorrow. I just took a shot with the buffer on the silver flake and it really made a big difference. So you're saying go at it with wet sanding it? I've read enough posts on that, and I guess that's totally by hand, right? Or can you use a sander? Also what's the coarsest grit you would recommend, I think it's supposed to be 1500 and up but I'm thinking I might need 800 or something like that. Or is that a bad idea?? Again, I really appreciate the help. There's a lot of really knowledgeable and helpful folks on this forum.

  9. Member crank68's Avatar
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    #9
    There’s no perfect grit to start with...You can gimme a buzz and text a few more detail pics and I’ll try to help you choose the correct grits and products. Also some guys on here have found before/after pics/vids on my website that’s close to their boat and I could help in that way. It’s not rocket science but you just do not wanna be more aggressive than needed and cause yourself additional problems.
    BULLET 20 XRD/250 Merc Sport XS
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  10. Member
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    #10
    OK! The silver metal flake stripe really smoothed out with a terry cloth pad on a 10" Harbor Freight buffer using Turtle Was Rubbing Compound and MEguiar's Fine Cut compound - not perfect or glassy, but really much smoother and extremely shiny!! I don't know much about wet sanding, though I have tried it before on a riding mower I restored, it came out fairly great. So my question of the day is ... Is wet sanding say 1500 or so more agressive than compounding with say turtle wax "rubbing compound". The Turtle Wax and Meguiar's compounds have really eliminated the chalky/milky oxidation on the solid colors, and they have smoothed out the silver flake a great deal. So I think you're right that the silver flake gel may still be ok just needs to be smoothed out. So - is that a job for wet sanding or for more compounding? And, can you wet sand with a machine, or is it necessarily a j20201005_172840.jpgob by hand? So far I'm really amazed by the results!!! Totally energized to go further, but don't want to screw it up. 20201005_173112.jpgThe sides, below the silver metal flake stripe have come out extremely glossy - all oxidation, and chalky/milky looking cloudiness is gone. So I'm just trying to figure out whether to go with wet sanding on the silver metal flake or continue with more compound - maybe a more agressive compound formula. Anyway I hope these pics are clear. I shot a video, but by the time it's "trimmed" enough to send anywhere it's not very good. thanks again for all the input!!
    20201005_173112.jpg

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    #11
    Also!!! When I get the finish clean and glossy, what do I use for a sealer/protectant? Wax? or one of those sealers that (like NuFinish, or New Glass2) you only apply once every year or two. Wax seems like it wouldn't last as long. ??? Not sure on this. I had an airplane back when and used some kind of polymer (I think) and it gave an extremely glossy finish! I used to tell folks that a fly would bust his ass trying to land on it!! It was great but can't remember what it was or whether it would work in a marine environment.

    Thanks again everybody!

  12. BBC SPONSOR greens1098's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeshoop View Post
    Also!!! When I get the finish clean and glossy, what do I use for a sealer/protectant? Wax? or one of those sealers that (like NuFinish, or New Glass2) you only apply once every year or two. Wax seems like it wouldn't last as long. ??? Not sure on this. I had an airplane back when and used some kind of polymer (I think) and it gave an extremely glossy finish! I used to tell folks that a fly would bust his ass trying to land on it!! It was great but can't remember what it was or whether it would work in a marine environment.

    Thanks again everybody!
    3m Has a professional line used in the Gel coat process. If you use 36110 Light polish with wax you wont need to add an additional wax. Be careful with your speeds. Gel coat is pretty forgiving compared to clearcoat on a car but don't get to cocky with it.
    Collision Consultants of Akron--- Marine Fiberglass repair and electronic installer 3309333230

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    #13
    Crank68 - thanks again, you were so right about the gel over the silver flake, it's really coming along great. on the starboard side I went over the stripe with some 1500 grit wet sanding and followed up with 2000 grit. Then a couple of rounds with the compound and the buffer. On the port side tonight I went over it with 1000 grit, to be followed up with 2000 grit tomorrow. Both sides are looking much much better. Can't wait to see them once this is done and they are waxed.

    So, new Question: There's some 'non-waxes', like NuFinish (orange plastic bottle at Home Depot) and one called NewGlass2 available on line. Both are wipe on and let it dry and you're done. Does anyone recommend these type finishes over traditional wax coatings? They make great claims, and they appear simple to apply. The Nu Finish from Home Depot is $10-15 at Home Depot, the NewGlass2 is more like $60-70 online from their website.

    Anyway, really having fun with this since it's going so well. And thanks everybody for all the help!!
    Last edited by mikeshoop; 10-10-2020 at 03:19 PM.

  14. Fishing is a Passion
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    #14
    Try looking at the products from ProTec, I have used there products in the past with good luck

    https://protecproducts.com/
    2002 Pro Craft 200 Super Pro- 2005 200 Mercury Optimax, Retired
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