2004 150HP EFI Problems

[jacobk]

See how it does. On a side note- it's probably time to replace those T-stats, anyway.

Ordered replacements for both sides, out of curiosity how often should they be replaced?

[EuropeanAM]

Checked/tested annually. Replaced anytime the do not function properly (or corrosion begins).

In later years, 3 years / 300 hours (whichever occurs first) became the standard.

[jacobk]

Checked/tested annually. Replaced anytime the do not function properly (or corrosion begins).

In later years, 3 years / 300 hours (whichever occurs first) became the standard.

Thanks! Will report back once I get it on the water. Appreciate everyone’s insight so far!

[JOE54]

[jacobk]

New thermostats have been installed and temps are reading the same as before.

Ran the boat today and it still has a small hesitation after idling out of the no wake zone. All runs after the no wake zone had no hesitation.

In the middle of the trip the engine would start up, then stall in about 2 seconds. Immediately started it after it stalled and it would idle like normal.


I also noticed after getting off pad and entering the no wake zone, the exhaust fumes were rich enough to cause the eyes to sting. Although that went away after a minute or so.

[JOE54]

need to have sensors tested for out of range - air,map, cyl head, sounds still way to rich

[jacobk]

need to have sensors tested for out of range - air,map, cyl head, sounds still way to rich

I thought the same with the MAP, ran it this morning with a brand new MAP and had the same results.

[EuropeanAM]

You said temps were the same as before... how are you reading those (and where)?

[jacobk]

You said temps were the same as before... how are you reading those (and where)?

Read with the smart craft gauge, sorry. Going to have to buy an IR Thermometer to take block temps.

[EuropeanAM]

Thanks for clarifying that. So what temp did the Smartcraft engine temp read AT IDLE once warmed up? ("On Plane" temps are irrelevant unless it's overheating)

[jacobk]

Just wanted to circle back and bring this thread to a close for those that might find themselves in a similar situation.

After testing everything I could, a few things not listed (TPS, temps, primer bulb, fuel lines, fuel pumps etc.) it turned out to be the sensor or the float in the oil reservoir on the outboard. It was out of wack just enough to make it too rich on idle, but not enough to throw a code.

I decided to replace the reservoir and sensor and haven’t had an issue since.

Big thank you to everyone who chimed in, EuropeanAM if you find yourself in Michigan lmk and I’ll buy you a beer or five!

[JOE54]

float switch in oil tank running rich hmmmmmm , how

[jacobk]

float switch in oil tank running rich hmmmmmm , how

I’m assuming there could’ve been a slight leak in the tank or the hose/check valve as well. The new unit came with replacements and the problem hasn’t persisted since changing.

[JOE54]

shouldnt have had any effect on running unless it was going into guardian mode , would have had warn horn and reduced power

[EuropeanAM]

Maybe the crankcase pressure check valve was involved also?