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  1. #1
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    Jig head for Tube bait

    Do you use heavier wt or light for tube fishing? Which is the better/effective way to land more bass? So far, I've used 1/8, 1/16, and I'm hearing some folks use 1/2 or even heavier like 3/4(!). I'm trying to downsize my baits for fall/winter and for tubes, I want to go as small as 2.75 inch. What would be the heaviest wt that you can use for that size tube and still be effective? Appreciate your valuable input in advance!

  2. Lenny B LennyB's Avatar
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    #2
    I go as light as I can that will still get the job done. If it's calm out with little to no wind in say 8 feet of water, that would be 1/8 to 1/4 ounce. If I'm fishing heavy current in a river that's 20 to 30 feet deep, that would change to 1/2 to 3/4 ounce. So it just depends on the conditions.

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    #3
    It really depends on what you're doing with the tube. If you want it to glide or spiral slowly, obviously go lighter. If you want to really stroke it/crack it or drag it, heavier is better.
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    #4
    depends on wind, technique, line size and depth, I tend to go as light as I can, 3/4 sounds awfully heavy for a 2.75" tube, but to each his own
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by SWbass View Post
    3/4 sounds awfully heavy for a 2.75" tube....
    That's what I was thinking, too.

  6. Member Jesse-C's Avatar
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    #6
    I like a 1/2 but it varies. Fall rate is a huge deal in tube fishing tho!

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    #7
    I throw 1/2- 3/4 oz in a 2.75" tube at certain times. I like to keep the tubed pinned to the bottom is the reason. when fishing current, and at certain depths most of the time.

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    #8
    With a tube I go as HEAVY as they let me. A heavy head allows for further casts in clear water and it gets down/ stays down quicker. I throw a ton of 1/2 and 3/4 oz heads, but I'm also fishing them in water as deep as 50' in the Great Lakes. Starting now, I will throw a large tube and a heavy head as they start to group up for the fall. They want a big meal, so bigger is better.

    Once it starts to really get cold, I'll switch to the 2.75". It becomes pretty obvious when they bite the smaller bait better. Same thing for the small tube, I'll go as heavy as they will let me. 3/8 is a good starting point for the smaller tube.

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    #9
    I'll usually start with both a rod with 1/4 oz and one with 5/8 just to see what they want. I fish smaller (2.75"-3") most of the time. Have caught a lot of fish cracking that 5/8 ounce little tube, doesn't have to be deep water either to go heavier.

  10. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #10
    I look at heavy vs light tubes the same way I look at flipping/pitching with a 1/4-3/8 oz weight vs. a 3/4-1oz weight. Rate of fall matters a lot. I tend toward the heavier stuff a lot of times for several reasons. It allows me to move quicker, I feel that it's different than what the fish are used to seeing, and it gets reaction bites from fish that aren't actively looking to feed.

    Other times the fish want a slower fall. Gotta listen to them!
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    #11
    When cracking, do you guys use a swivel?

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by willwork4fish View Post
    I'll usually start with both a rod with 1/4 oz and one with 5/8 just to see what they want. I fish smaller (2.75"-3") most of the time. Have caught a lot of fish cracking that 5/8 ounce little tube, doesn't have to be deep water either to go heavier.
    That's a great idea! I'll try that. Thank you, sir.

  13. Member DrewFlu33's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie101 View Post
    When cracking, do you guys use a swivel?
    I can't speak for others, but I don't. I do the braid to leader thing and the braid eats up the line twist enough to where it's mostly not a concern. I do use a shorter leader for this as well since longer leaders can start being affected by the twist much like straight fluoro would.

    In a perfect world I would rather do it on straight fluoro as I think the braid makes it hard not to over work the bait, but the line twist is just too much and I don't want a swivel smacking my guides, grabbing grass, introducing two knots that are each weaker than my leader knot, etc. Even forgetting the line twist, I don't throw straight fluoro on anything else and don't crack tubes often enough to have a dedicated setup for it (though I suppose I could do it with an extra spool instead). I've found that I really have to dial it back with the braid compared to straight fluoro and I think it works OK.
    2011 Skeeter ZX225
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  14. Member
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by eddie101 View Post
    When cracking, do you guys use a swivel?
    No, north of 1/2 oz a tube doesn't really spiral that much so I don't worry about twist. I'll usually just use straight 8lb flouro usually Tatsu because especially on the Great Lakes you're going to bust a lot off and I hate retying a leader in 3 foot swells. 1/8 to 3/8 tubes I usually run with braid and a leader.

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    #15
    Never a swivel for me. Straight flouro always with a tube.

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    #16
    Truly appreciate your kind responses and education!

  17. Member
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    #17
    I use the bass pro shops tender tube and use a 1/8 oz head and i fish that in depths to 30' sometimes deeper. Now depending on condition i will jump up to a 1/4 oz. Here in Pa we have deep lakes.
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  18. Member
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    #18
    I use 1\8 and 1\4 oz football heads for tubes. Gives the tubes a good look. I am running out of both, need to resupply. Prefer a 2\0 owner hook.
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  19. Member
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    #19
    The only weighted jig i use is the one called stupid, i prefer to use depending on size of tube either a 1/0 or 2/0 ewg hook and a slip sinker, usually 1/8 oz.

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    #20
    I am gonna get some stupid heads this winter, along with some other tube heads. I like the old venom heads with the round hooks they aren't around any more. Here's a tip for everyone. Texas rigged tubes, try a shiner hook.!!!
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