How much play is normal? 150 G2

[ici]

I use the factory motor bracket and some rubber clips that hold the motor from turning during transportation. However, I still see it bouncing around while driving. So upon further inspection, with everything in place I can still move motor about 3mm each way. The give is in what believe is called the upper trim cam. I need a motor mate or similar for sure if this is normal. Thanks.

[bighare]

Thanks for starting a new thread on this topic. Ok now we really need your engine model number. I am surprised we did not ask for it in your previous question.
we need to know what type of steering system is installed. Normal hydraulic with an external steering cylinder or DPS power steering.
What direction is the engine moving? Left to right or up and down? The next response depends on this understanding.

[cwalsh]

I recently purchased the newly released Motor Mate for my 150HO G2 and it locks the motor down very well. I am not noticing the motor bouncing or turning while trailering.

[ici]

Thanks for starting a new thread on this topic. Ok now we really need your engine model number. I am surprised we did not ask for it in your previous question.
we need to know what type of steering system is installed. Normal hydraulic with an external steering cylinder or DPS power steering.
What direction is the engine moving? Left to right or up and down? The next response depends on this understanding.

Thanks. Normal hydro, and the motor shakes from side to side. I went ahead and uploaded a vid you can see the play. I am taking it in next month to have them look at another issue re the water pressure gauge. I was just going to have them look at it then but i have a few road trips planned and want to know if this is bad enough to do something about before then. Here's the vid: https://vimeo.com/459393499?ref=em-share

[ici]

oh and model is C150PLHAAF

[cwalsh]

If you are using the kickstand from the motor I would guess that is normal. Either a traditional transom saver or motor mate should fix the issue. I have the same boat as you only in a 2017 and one thing I noticed was the size of your jackplate. Mine was ordered and came from Ranger with a 4" slidemaster due to the fact that the G2's have a built in setback. Yours appears to be 6-8"? How is your performance with that much plate?

[ici]

If you are using the kickstand from the motor I would guess that is normal. Either a traditional transom saver or motor mate should fix the issue. I have the same boat as you only in a 2017 and one thing I noticed was the size of your jackplate. Mine was ordered and came from Ranger with a 4" slidemaster due to the fact that the G2's have a built in setback. Yours appears to be 6-8"? How is your performance with that much plate?

Well, as i am a bit of a novice, havent had a boat since i was a teenager, 25 years ago. Bass boat wise really only been passenger for the last year or so. However, it does take a bit to get out of the hole. Even my buddy thinks its a bit odd. I am getting better at figuring out the trim it likes to get up and out. But yeah, it is a big jack, came with so would love more input from others since you've pointed out. seems to handle well though. Getting 54MPH at 5400RPM I know thats more of a prop issue, just saying

[86 inches]

If you are using the kickstand from the motor I would guess that is normal. Either a traditional transom saver or motor mate should fix the issue. I have the same boat as you only in a 2017 and one thing I noticed was the size of your jackplate. Mine was ordered and came from Ranger with a 4" slidemaster due to the fact that the G2's have a built in setback. Yours appears to be 6-8"? How is your performance with that much plate?

I think his model is a trac+. Doesn't have the extra or "built-in" setback.

[ici]

Plus, If anything i think the motor is a bit high. I get a lot of rooster and its really stiff at WOT. Will tackle that after I get all other issues figured out.

[cwalsh]

I am running the Raker HO in 24p that I did send out to have it B&B by Mark Croxton which did give the boat better lift after I got it back. My prop to pad is currently at 3.25", I have been anywhere from 3-3.5 without any big changes. For hole shot I always trim all the way down and it is less than 3 seconds when alone and no more than 5 with 2 guys, fuel and livewells full. My top speed light is 59-61 @5850-6020rpm depending on time of year and 54-57 when loaded down. One thing to note is your trim and how it is calibrated. When my boat was new I had to go to 100% trim and keep trimming up using RPM as my gauge, brought it back to the dealer and they re-calibrated the trim so now 75-80% is my sweet spot. Your boat I believe is the same hull with some changes to the top cap and should run similar numbers, especially the hole shot which should be really good with this motor. Hope this helps.

[ici]

Thanks. So, anymore ideas on the play? Should I address it or is it normal? Either way ill be getting a motormate

[bighare]

The steering slop is fixed easily. See the starboard side and the rod that passes thru the engine and attaches to those black brackets. Between the engine and that bracket you will see a round collar about 3/4 in wide. That collar is threaded and is intended to be adjusted to take out the movement as you see it. There is an Allen head screw used to tighten the collar once it is set. Some body forgot to set the collar and tighten it.
From the Seastar manual....... STEP 6: Eliminate the free play in the support rod by turning the adjusting nut (Item 10) counter clockwise until snug. Never use a wrench on the adjusting nut. Always hand tighten. Lock the adjusting nut in place by tighteningthe Hexagon set screw. DO NOT TIGHTEN UNTIL ALL FASTENERS ARE TIGHTENED TO THE CORRECT TORQUE.
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...04/929784G.pdf

what you describe as a high rooster, meaning rooster tail and hard left turn means you are trimmed too high. Trim down till you have a more balanced feel to the steering. Know this, that steering effort in either direction will change based on the mph and trim setting you are running at. This is normal. Hydraulic steering helps reduce the pull-back torque so driving is easier. Driving time on the water and playing with different trim positions is your best teacher.

[ici]

The steering slop is fixed easily. See the starboard side and the rod that passes thru the engine and attaches to those black brackets. Between the engine and that bracket you will see a round collar about 3/4 in wide. That collar is threaded and is intended to be adjusted to take out the movement as you see it. There is an Allen head screw used to tighten the collar once it is set. Some body forgot to set the collar and tighten it.
From the Seastar manual....... STEP 6: Eliminate the free play in the support rod by turning the adjusting nut (Item 10) counter clockwise until snug. Never use a wrench on the adjusting nut. Always hand tighten. Lock the adjusting nut in place by tighteningthe Hexagon set screw. DO NOT TIGHTEN UNTIL ALL FASTENERS ARE TIGHTENED TO THE CORRECT TORQUE.
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...04/929784G.pdf

what you describe as a high rooster, meaning rooster tail and hard left turn means you are trimmed too high. Trim down till you have a more balanced feel to the steering. Know this, that steering effort in either direction will change based on the mph and trim setting you are running at. This is normal. Hydraulic steering helps reduce the pull-back torque so driving is easier. Driving time on the water and playing with different trim positions is your best teacher.

Thank you... just saved me like 50 bucks today. Upon inspection based on this info, I found the adjusting nut was completely loose and had worked its way to other side. So, simply hand turning it to snug and tightening screw ive eliminated 99% of play. Now, instead of running to basspro to buy motormate for my 2hr trip tomorrow ill just order for future use. Saved gas, tax and retail price on motormate. THANKS

[Huey]

Since someone forgot to do this important step when fitting traditional bull horn hydraulic steering to any outboard might pay to check over the rigging to be certain nothing else was "missed". Important things like engine mounting bolts/nuts to jack plate and then from jack plate to the hull would be high on the list. I see no evidence of grease on the grease nipples of the bull horns so do that as well. I see no ground strap and might be wise to also make sure they fitted the steering bolt into the correct hole on the steering arm of the outboard.

[ici]

Since someone forgot to do this important step when fitting traditional bull horn hydraulic steering to any outboard might pay to check over the rigging to be certain nothing else was "missed". Important things like engine mounting bolts/nuts to jack plate and then from jack plate to the hull would be high on the list. I see no evidence of grease on the grease nipples of the bull horns so do that as well. I see no ground strap and might be wise to also make sure they fitted the steering bolt into the correct hole on the steering arm of the outboard.

Will do, thanks. I did just put some grease through all fittings recently, might be clean due to me wiping off excess.

[bighare]

Will do, thanks. I did just put some grease through all fittings recently, might be clean due to me wiping off excess.

the Seastar link I included to the manual includes reference to the ground strap. Nice catch Huey.
And sure am glad to help with the easy stuff. You are welcome.

[ici]

I just don't like the side to side pressure and play during transport being all on the steering linkage. I have the rubber stops, but they have about a 1/3" play if not more. So I just ordered the motormate today.

[bighare]

You worry about the pressure is misplaced. There should be zero end play between the adjustment collar as spec’d. This means there is no pressure. The hydraulics can take this as they have been doing for decades.