Intermittent Ignition Problem- 1993 Evinrude 150 Intruder

[CJMAC]

My 93 Intruder 150 runs great on a cold start, but won’t always fire back up after I stop. It turns over but won’t fire. Sometimes it does this after the first run, sometimes it runs all day with no problem, and other times it acts up somewhere in between......completely unpredictable. It has never failed to fire up on a cold start, but once it decides to not fire, I can’t get it to start until the next morning. I’ve recently replaced the ignition switch. Also, I can’t get it to replicate the problem in the driveway no matter how long I let it idle from a cold start. Anyone else had the problem before?

[316jughead]

Hi, welcome to the forum. How long have you owned this motor and did this just recently start? This problem has been discussed here many times and can be caused by a number of things and sometimes by more than just one. If your planning to work on this motor yourself, you need to get a real OMC service manual for this motor, it's good for all work you would ever have to do. Have you taken a compression test? ChampioNman will come along, listen to him, he is one of the best.

[CJMAC]

Thanks for the welcome! The motor is new to me, I bought it along with a 1993 Ranger 361V about a month ago for my 16 year old to fish tournaments. I am planning to do the work myself, and have ordered a Seloc manual for it. I have not done a compression test, but the previous owner claimed it recently tested around 120.

[omcforever]

Thanks for the welcome! The motor is new to me, I bought it along with a 1993 Ranger 361V about a month ago for my 16 year old to fish tournaments. I am planning to do the work myself, and have ordered a Seloc manual for it. I have not done a compression test, but the previous owner claimed it recently tested around 120.

Some more advice,,,when the Seloc manual gets in, throw it away and order real OMC service and repair manual for you model/year motor.

[omcforever]

https://www.selffixer.com/outboard.m...nson.evinrude/

[CJMAC]

Thanks for the link, i just downloaded the manual.

[316jughead]

Motor model number? Do you have any reliable service info? Gauges are different but 120 is a little high for that motor, lets test compression to see if we have a good motor to work with. Read up on how to decarb the motor, it prolly could use one. Some service manuals don't have the correct spark plugs listed, OMC played around with plugs and finally decided Champion QL78YC gap at .030.

[CJMAC]

Model number: E150GLETR

I do not have any service records for the motor.

Voltage was a little low on the cranking battery, so I pulled it to get a new one and discovered water in the tray, then found a small crack in the top of the battery. After reading the OMC manual, I see that it the battery didn’t have sufficient reserve capacity...65 and it calls for at least 99. I bought a new battery that meets specs....putting it in tomorrow before anymore troubleshooting.

[CJMAC]

I replaced the battery and tested resistance on each coil pack, the stator and the shift switch. Everything was in spec except for the power coil reading on the stator. It reads 53.8 ohms and the OMC manual calls for 100 ohms, +/- 10. I also tested the charge coil and it was in spec.

Ordering a new stator.

[316jughead]

I replaced the battery and tested resistance on each coil pack, the stator and the shift switch. Everything was in spec except for the power coil reading on the stator. It reads 53.8 ohms and the OMC manual calls for 100 ohms, +/- 10. I also tested the charge coil and it was in spec.

Ordering a new stator.

I would test voltage output on the stator before replacing it. However the power coil resistance is off. The charge coils produce voltage for ignition, one for each bank of cylinders. OEM parts only, no CDI. A bad stator charge coil can cause your problem, sometimes the only clue we get is the ohms test, or to look at the stator. Are we going to test compression? Question, what color is your power pack? If the pack is black, what color is the sleeve over the wires to the sensor? You will need a peak reading volt meter or an adapter for your voltmeter to test output voltages.

[ChampioNman]

Use a puller to remove the flywheel, don't pry it out, you'll save your finger tips and save the magnets on the flywheel.

[CJMAC]

Ok, holding off on ordering the stator for further testing. I’ve ordered a DVA adapter to test peak voltage. I haven’t tested compression yet, but will in he next couple days. Power pack is black, sleeve over wires to sensor is gray.

The below line link to CDI’s troubleshooting guide indicates that the power coil resistance range is 50-60 ohms, compared to the OMC manual, which is 90-110 ohms?? Why such a difference? Could I have a CDI stator? If so, I’d be in spec on power coil.

https://www.go2marine.com/Product-Gu...-1991-2006.pdf

[CJMAC]

Compression test: 115, 112, 99, 115, 113, 107

I found a couple of fuel leaks on the carbs while warming it up....fairly significant leakage, so I’m done testing until I get those fixed.

Thanks for all the help! I’ll be back once I’m not leaking fuel.

[ChampioNman]

If you are having to replace the float bowls, don't forget to move the high speed orifices to the new float bowls. The reside behind the float bowl drain plugs.

[CJMAC]

I’m back, rebuilt all 6 carbs, with new bowls and planed carb bodies to eliminate minor warp. I found loose fuel lines and fittings, which I’m sure were leaking too. High speed jet was backed all the way out and loose in #1 carb....would that cause flooding issues? All tight now, no more fuel leakage. I ran it in the driveway yesterday and decarbed with Evinrude Engine Tuner. She sounds great and is throttle responsive. Planning to hit the water tomorrow with my meter and DVA adapter so I can test ignition components if original Ignition problem persists.....no fire after warmed up. I’m hopeful it was a flooding issue but not optimistic with my luck thus far.

[ChampioNman]

#1 being backed out will cause issues, not so much on flooding but more on accelleration.

[CJMAC]

3 trips under my belt and no more issues with not firing once warm. New cranking battery, ignition switch, plugs, wires, fuel filter, and rebuilt carbs. Now it starts fine, idles, and runs great on pad....but occasionally stalls coming off of idle. The OMC service manual shows an idle air bleed orifice, but my carbs have what I believe is an adjustable screw coming off of the throttle body instead. I’m assuming it’s an idle mixture screw, but I can’t find any guidance on how to adjust......thoughts?

[ChampioNman]

93 has the orifices, some models of the 94 have the adjustable idle some don't. 95 they all have adjustable idle bleed screws.