Gatorbaks

[red186]

I just tried my new Gatorbak's out after replacing my 3 year old ones, Kind a disappointed, I replaced the ones i had because the boat would not slide on and still had to crank it up, was assured the new formula would be a world of difference and loading would be a piece of cake, well I backed trailer in and wet all bunks just had enough of the trailer bunks sticking out to keep the boat from sliding off the bunks and still i had to really hammer down to get the boat to slide any and then I still had to winch it the rest of the way up, never had a problem at all when I had carpet on the bunks, don't know what I could be doing wrong that would cause it but I can say I don't see any difference in the 3 year old ones and the new ones.

[krindgen]

Sounds like you're on a shallow ramp and gotta back in deeper. If the ramp is shallow I don't know that the newer gatorbaks will help. I have the original Gatorbaks and they're pretty "sticky" on shallow ramps. I only thought the newer gatorbaks were better because you can power load on them, not sure if they're slicker. BTW I do power load with my older gatorbaks. Due to this shallow ramp issue I also upgraded my winch. Money well spent.

[crank68]

I may can see power loading “some” if you’re by yourself but if you have someone in the truck you should never have to. By yourself...you should back a little deeper to reduce the distance of power loading.

[krindgen]

I may can see power loading “some” if you’re by yourself but if you have someone in the truck you should never have to. By yourself...you should back a little deeper to reduce the distance of power loading.

I'll also add, on my MarineMaster, I've had the toughest time finding the "sweet" depth for loading.

[tracer1]

I will be replacing my bunk carpet in the next few weeks ( when I get the carpet, that is ). Thought about something like the gatorbaks but not if they are that much of a problem. Too expensive for that.

[Rick H]

Nothing wrong with the Gatorbaks. Worth every dime unless you would rather deal with hull blisters which are much, much more expensive. Pay now or a bunch more later.

[red186]

The Gatorbaks will prevent hull blisters I agree with that, but the ramp I used wasn't shallow at all, used the boat today on a different ramp not shallow either and loading by myself backed trailer in as far as possible and still keep boat from floating off had center bunks about 6"to8' out and two outside bunks about even with water and still had to winch and get back in truck and back in deeper to get boat all the way on trailer, just seems like when the boat hits the bunks it don't want to slide.

[Rick H]

I'm not sure what is considered a shallow ramp but I know steep ramps suck!

The ramp I us mostly the front tips of the bunks are just under the water and the tires of the tow vehicle are about a foot in to edge of the water. My boat will float about 2/3 on the trailer close enough if I'm not careful once it moves power loading it will hit the bow roller a little harder than I like. I have winched it from there without much effort.

If trailer position doesn't seem to help then maybe a better two speed winch is in order. Gatorbaks are your friend.

[tracer1]

My boat is a 2008. Hull looks as good as new, no blisters. Just looking to replace the carpet, since one is beginning to look bad. Have considered Gatorbaks. There are some things I would like to know. My bunks are 7' and 9', 2x6. The XP kits come in 8' & 10', so I would have to trim to fit, which is not a big thing. But they have ones that are sold by the foot with accessories as optional. What doesn't make sense, to me anyway, is why can't they sell the XP kits by the foot also? Are these not the XP bunks, just older ones to get rid of? Mu understanding is the XP are now for power loading & the older ones are not. What changed? Looking at the 2 , I can't see any difference. Now before you guys get all bent out shape & take this as a personal insult, it isn't. I just need some answers from guys that have used these & their experiences with them. What they like/dislike about them. I know I can call Gatorbaks and ask but would like to hear from actual users, not a salesman.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

[red186]

My boat is a 2008. Hull looks as good as new, no blisters. Just looking to replace the carpet, since one is beginning to look bad. Have considered Gatorbaks. There are some things I would like to know. My bunks are 7' and 9', 2x6. The XP kits come in 8' & 10', so I would have to trim to fit, which is not a big thing. But they have ones that are sold by the foot with accessories as optional. What doesn't make sense, to me anyway, is why can't they sell the XP kits by the foot also? Are these not the XP bunks, just older ones to get rid of? Mu understanding is the XP are now for power loading & the older ones are not. What changed? Looking at the 2 , I can't see any difference. Now before you guys get all bent out shape & take this as a personal insult, it isn't. I just need some answers from guys that have used these & their experiences with them. What they like/dislike about them. I know I can call Gatorbaks and ask but would like to hear from actual users, not a salesman.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Weight wise the new Gatorbaks are a lot lighter in weight, not knocking the product either but for me I can't tell any difference in loading between the new and the ones I had 3 years old, wish I had just kept the ones I had and not spent the money on the new ones, wondering if silicone spray would help? also forgot to add I dunked the bunks all the way to wet them first.

[tracer1]

Thanks red. If the new ones (XP) don't load any better than the old ones, that's not good. My biggest concern is power loading. I've gotten too old to jump out of my boat and winch it 3 feet to the bow roller. And I don't forsee buying a new winch just for that either. The lakes here are drawn down in the late fall & winter, so the deep ramps we have here will be shallow. I was hoping for these to make my boat slide off easy & load easy and never have to replace the carpet again. I have 24oz Syntec carpet on mine since new, it's not cheap either. I've never had a problem with my carpeted bunk. Right now I can load my boat with hardly any effort by myself without power loading very much. So the price factor is not the problem nor the blister problem, If my boat has not blistered since 2008, I guess it's OK for a few more years. Just trying to look at this realistically and not make a mistake I'll regret.
Thanks so much for your response, it is really appreciated.

[red186]

I hear you on the age thing I had to get out of the boat back the truck up some and winch the rest.

[mikesxpress]

I was the 1st one on here to install Gatorbak bunks on my Rangertrail due to hull blistering. That was 3/5/14 while my 2009 Z21 Intracoastal was off the trailer getting the hull done. I've since upgraded to the XP bunks and while they are power loading capable, I don't do that unless it necessary. I use a multitude of fresh & saltwater ramps that are influenced by the tides here along the Virginia coast. A 3'+ variation in water depth from launching to loading is not unusual and I have to adjust my trailer placement for it. Most folks have seen my multiple videos on loading and how I do it. While each trailer and rig are different, and require different positioning, it's all doable. Having went thru the osmotic blister reparations, I would never have another boat sitting on carpet. The most important thing I can share with those interested in upgrading to Gatorbak bunks is to get your bunks adjusted to accept even weight disbursement across all your bunks. The OEMs value of the trailer is only to get the boat off the lot. Most of the trailers do not fit the boat properly, the wiring is crap, and even with mine some wizard decided that even though my aluminum I beam trailer was designed for saltwater use, they would use steel calipers and brake components. I corrected that and changed the steel bunk brackets out to stainless steel as well as raising the two shorter outside bunks to bear the same weight as the longer center boards. After my initial Gatorbak installation I found the outside bunks gapped off the hull by 3/8"! With the fluff of the carpet you will most likely never see it. If you have any questions, send me an email.

[BMCD]

I will be installing my GatorBaks this week. This is my first set so i will report back, in a few weeks.

[tr20josh]

I like my Gatorbaks, I guess I have the old style? They're about two years old. Anyways, I back in to where the ends of my bunks are barely sticking out and power load it on, never have any problems.

[itsahog]

I’m definitely going to put Gatorbaks on, i’m thinking on putting the Drotto system on as well, that way I can go as deep as I need without power loading and snap it right up. Does anybody have this combination?

[krindgen]

Thanks red. If the new ones (XP) don't load any better than the old ones, that's not good. My biggest concern is power loading. I've gotten too old to jump out of my boat and winch it 3 feet to the bow roller. And I don't forsee buying a new winch just for that either. The lakes here are drawn down in the late fall & winter, so the deep ramps we have here will be shallow. I was hoping for these to make my boat slide off easy & load easy and never have to replace the carpet again. I have 24oz Syntec carpet on mine since new, it's not cheap either. I've never had a problem with my carpeted bunk. Right now I can load my boat with hardly any effort by myself without power loading very much. So the price factor is not the problem nor the blister problem, If my boat has not blistered since 2008, I guess it's OK for a few more years. Just trying to look at this realistically and not make a mistake I'll regret.
Thanks so much for your response, it is really appreciated.

Regardless of ramp conditions, I will have an upgraded two-speed winch on any trailer I own. On the shallow ramps I was having to winch entirely too much. I've learned better now that winching isn't the answer and the trailer should be dunked in a way that eliminates winching. But some ramps, the pavement doesn't go deep enough to do that and the trailer hangs off the end of the pavement making it tough to get out. So sometimes there is some winching necessary and that two-speed winch makes it much more forgiving on my back and nuts. Beyond the age of taking chances.

[KYRANGERMAN]

Regardless of ramp conditions, I will have an upgraded two-speed winch on any trailer I own. On the shallow ramps I was having to winch entirely too much. I've learned better now that winching isn't the answer and the trailer should be dunked in a way that eliminates winching. But some ramps, the pavement doesn't go deep enough to do that and the trailer hangs off the end of the pavement making it tough to get out. So sometimes there is some winching necessary and that two-speed winch makes it much more forgiving on my back and nuts. Beyond the age of taking chances.

Trying to see where your nuts could get in the way of the winch. Mine have never gotten in the way of the winch, and I consider them normal size.

[davidsa]

I have the old style and have for about three or 4 years I guess. Really like them. In spite of having worked on my trailer a few times, I can come in under the nose if I'm not careful. I loaded last night alone in a pretty typical sequence.

Let the boat idle up until it stopped. I cut the motor. Got out hooked up, cranked it to ensure the nose was above the roller. I could have cranked it the rest of the way but I backed the boat in 8 inches more and finished the job. From the time I hit the kill switch until the time I was pulling out was on the order of 2 minutes to 2.5 min tops. Does not seem a big deal to me.

[smoken86]

I have the new XP's and I can pretty much load just like I did with carpet. Not sure why some people have issues with them.