2013 250 Pro XS - Low Oil

[heymack]

2b010717

I've read as many posts as I could about similar issues, but didn't find the answer to my question.

On my way in Sunday morning I got the dreaded beeps and 'critical' message on my smartcraft gauge. I immediately shut it down, did some inspecting and called for a tow. Remote tank 1/2 full and engine take 100% full. Now after reading many posts, I probably didn't actually need a tow and could have driven 30 minutes back to the port. Regardless, my question is: If the engine tank is 100% full (as it should be with oil in the remote tank), is there anything downstream from this tank that can go wrong (oil related)? In other words, is there any threat of improper engine lubrication when the engine tank has sufficient oil in it?

If no, then the obvious solution to the problem appears to be engine tank (8M0064075) replacement.

Thanks!

[Bryanmc57]

Four beeps is not a critical alarm, a solid beep is. Most likely the float in your engine mounted tank has gone bad. Disconnect the plug from the engine mounted tank and jumper the pins (in the harness). If the beep alarm goes away you'll need to replace the engine mounted tank. Pretty common failure.

[heymack]

I actually don't remember if the beep was solid or a series, but the smartcraft gauge did show the word 'critical' on the display, hence the reason for the tow....and the question as to whether there is anything else it could be other than the tank. I've already removed the tank, hoping to glean something after draining it, but didn't. I'll try the jumper trick....thanks.

[heymack]

OK, upon further review, the alarm was one continuous beep with 'Critical-Low Oil' message. I jumped the connector and warning did not re-occur. So.....how do I know if it's a bad tank or bad switch ($200 difference in price)? Should the switch have continuity through it at all times (mine doesn't)?

Still curious if there are any other downstream oil sensors in the engine. Anybody know?

[Savage]

If you jumpered the wires together at the oil level sensor, and the alarm stopped, then you need a New COMPLETE Oil Reservoir. You can't just buy the tank sensor.

[heymack]

If you jumpered the wires together at the oil level sensor, and the alarm stopped, then you need a New COMPLETE Oil Reservoir. You can't just buy the tank sensor.

OK, even more confused. When you say I can't just buy the tank sensor, do you mean that's not the problem or it's not available? It is available separately as part # 87-856156T04. At $20, seems like a great value if that's all I need.

[transdep1]

I don't think that is the right sensor...I may be wrong. The engine mounted tank has a float inside it. They are bad about going bad..and you cannot replace them. I maybe wrong

[Savage]

OK, even more confused. When you say I can't just buy the tank sensor, do you mean that's not the problem or it's not available? It is available separately as part # 87-856156T04. At $20, seems like a great value if that's all I need.

The level sensor is part of the tank and is not sold separately.

[heymack]

The switch is sold separately and is easily removed from the tank by one small screw. Otherwise, the tank is sealed.

As I originally stated, I've searched and read a ton of posts so I realize the tank unit is a problem with Mercury engines. Yes, there is a youtube video showing how to rebuild the float on another model. Yes, the magnet separates from the float in some situations, but why throw away good money if mine is fine and I just need a new switch? If there is a way to 'test' the switch, then I could possibly save a lot of money.

[EuropeanAM]

1. You can buy the switch separately. There is an OEM part number for it.

2. 99% of the time it is NOT the switch that is the problem, it is the float inside the tank. The only accurate repair for this is to replace the TANK and the Sensor at the same time.

3. Avoid "Tube" videos. More often than not, they will cost you more money than you think you're saving.

4. You made the right decision on the tow. CRITICAL (either by solid tone warning or Smartcraft Notice) means to shut the engine down as soon as is safely possible.

5. Don't overthink the tank/sensor situation. One of the most critical signaling devices on the engine sent you a false/unreliable signal (said there was no oil in the tank when it was full). You can no longer believe any signal that comes from this extremely critical float/magnet/sensor combination.

[heymack]

1.

4. You made the right decision on the tow. CRITICAL (either by solid tone warning or Smartcraft Notice) means to shut the engine down as soon as is safely possible.

5. Don't overthink the tank/sensor situation. One of the most critical signaling devices on the engine sent you a false/unreliable signal (said there was no oil in the tank when it was full). You can no longer believe any signal that comes from this extremely critical float/magnet/sensor combination.

Thanks Don.

So even though I visually inspected the engine mounted tank and confirmed it was full, there's a chance the engine won't get proper lubrication?

Because it's my nature to be certain, I thoroughly cleaned the tank and when I held my head just right and squinted, I could see the float through the vent/fill hole. At first all I could see was the white float moving up and down so I found a long pick and prodded around. Turns out the washer (magnet) did separate from the float.

[Savage]

If the reserve tank on the motor was "confirmed" that it was full, then the motor will get the proper lubrication, that is the purpose of a "reserve" oil reservoir.

[EuropeanAM]

+1

My responses to 4 & 5 were indicating to you that the float/sensor signals could no longer be trusted (replace the tank)... and that any CRITICAL warning is a potential hazard to the engine (shutting it down was the right thing to do until such time as the problem was diagnosed and corrected).

[heymack]

Oy vey....

Got the new tank installed, filled 95%, cracked plug open, fired up engine and idled for 10 minutes and no more oil ever entered engine mounted tank. Pulled 'air' line off remote tank to see if there was air pressure coming through it. At idle, yes, but very little. So I added another gallon of oil to the remote tank (believing that the idle air pressure would take a week to fill the voided area within the tank). Still no fill. Cracked open the remote tank (for the first time ever) and checked pick-up screen...clean. Next, I blew a little low-pressure compressed air into remote tank (at air inlet port) and the oil level began rising in engine tank, so no obstruction in blue-striped line.

OK, so there's absolutely no way the engine mounted tank failed then the xxx (fill in the blank [check valve, hose or remote tank seal]) failed at the same time. As stated above, when I first got the alarm, the engine take was 100% full, so nothing upstream from was 'broken' at the time.

I've read countless posts, could be kinked/bad hoses, reeds, check valve, seal, connections, etc. I plan to change out the check valve and tank seal, but don't have a warm fuzzy. Three engine-related tows in two years....really makes me miss my Yamaha (seven years and 700+ hours without a single hiccup).

[Bryanmc57]

Sounds like the check valve is bad. Also, I think Don recommends not filling the remote tank over 80% to allow enough room to build air pressure to move the oil.

[heymack]

Sounds like the check valve is bad. Also, I think Don recommends not filling the remote tank over 80% to allow enough room to build air pressure to move the oil.

It started about 1/2 full, then I added roughly a gallon to bring it up to 80-85% full just because the air pressure from the engine seemed so low. I read a previous post where Don said the system depressurizes about five minutes after the engine is shut down, so the perplexing part is I had zero problems with the oil system until the float/magnet separated on the third day of a fishing trip whereby I easily drove over 100 miles. I mean, what's the probability that the float system fails and the check valve (or a hose or a seal, etc) fails at the exact same time? I don't have an exact number, but it has to be infinitesimal.

[EuropeanAM]

Really not all that uncommon. In reality- you may have had a WEAK check valve for some time, and now that you're needing it to work at about 100 times it's normal pace/demand to bleed the air from the system, it's not doing the job.

Good idea to leave the engine-mounted tank sealed/closed for the first minute or so running at idle (which permits pressure to build). Then crack the cap open on the engine-mounted tank to bleed air.

Not really that big of a deal... simple little check valve that's cycling open-closed once for every crankshaft revolution since the engine was built. I think the poor little thing has earned a break, stick a new one in there and finish up the bleeding procedure.

That should get the "bleepidy-bleep" thing going for you.

[SilverFox579]

Wouldn't hurt to pull the remote tank pickup and make sure screen is completely clear of any sludge.

[heymack]

Wouldn't hurt to pull the remote tank pickup and make sure screen is completely clear of any sludge.

I did. It's clean.

[heymack]

OK, so here's an update.

I wound up installing a new tank, new check valve and new o-ring on remote tank. After installing all these parts, I still couldn't get the engine mounted tank to overflow, even after taking Don's advice above. So I took the boat out over the weekend and carried a full gallon of oil and funnel so I could fish and fill engine tank up as oil was used. Much to my surprise, the oil level never dropped in the engine tank, but it never completely filled up either....with plug in or out. The engine did use a gallon of oil over the course of the weekend, all supplied from the remote tank (I didn't have to manually fill engine tank).

Anybody have an explanation as to why the engine tank won't fill to the point of overflowing?