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  1. #1
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    Amp draw on multiple helix's

    So i was out on the lake yesterday for a few hours. Used the big motor a couple of times to make position changes. The last time I went to start the motor I get the grinding sound a couple of times before it would kick over. I have a brand new X2 power group 31 agm battery from batteries plus, only 5 months old. It stays on the charger all the time. I noticed on my helix unit the battery voltage was below 12, bouncing between 11.8/9.
    I have 1 helix 12, 2 helix 10s, and 1 helix 9, an ethernet hub, a mega 360, and ultrex, power poles also.
    I am wondering if I need a dedicated battery for all this stuff?
    I was out only 5 hours yesterday and everything was fully charged before i went out.

    Thoughts?

  2. Member Sirius Rich's Avatar
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    #2
    First thing I would do is load test the X2. Even Northstar/Odyssey can mess up. I have a very similar set up and my V will drop below 12 on the units, but never had an issue starting the motor. My Odyssey 31 is 8 months old. Then start checking all your connections, but my money is on an ill battery.
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  3. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #3
    The voltage reading on a unit will never be accurate. You can only count on the reading right at the battery terminals.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

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    #4
    I have the identical accessories and have had zero issues turning over my pro xs and no low voltage alarms, sounds like a battery issue as you were only out 5 hours. I run an Odyssey but the make of the battery won't matter as there have been numerous good reviews on X2, could have just got a faulty one. I think they still run a 3 or 4 year warranty.
    2016 Phoenix 921 ProXP
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  5. Member
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    #5
    Luckily I fired my units up the other week before we go on vacation next week and had a low voltage issue also with a X2 power battery. I actually had two issues, first i charged the battery with manual charger and had load tested, it was ok, the new dual pro 3 bank charger was one problem, I sent it in and they replaced two circuit boards and I found a loose hot wire on one end of the wiring harness main connection. So, do some trouble shooting, the issue is somewhere

  6. Member
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    #6
    The Helix's are drawing 5 amps per hour,total. Add up the rest of your stuff. Then see how many amp hours your battery has. 5 hours should be no sweat for the X2. You said everything charged up, did you have your starter/house battery on the charger? What else are you charging besides the trolling batteries? Bob
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  7. Member
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    #7
    In thirty minutes I will be heading to Georgia to hopefully solve my problem. I have a 31 group AMG battery that always reads 12.8 and no lower than 12.4 at the end of the day. My Helix 12 at the console reads about two tenths of what the battery does, Unfortunately my Mega 360 and my front sonars read below 12 at an average of 11.5 I verified this with a voltage meter as well as the sonar voltage read outs. The wiring to my front is obviously faulty and will be replaced with 10 gauge wiring harness directly to the battery instead of the accessory switch. I will report back next week with the results.

  8. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by geodebasser View Post
    In thirty minutes I will be heading to Georgia to hopefully solve my problem. I have a 31 group AMG battery that always reads 12.8 and no lower than 12.4 at the end of the day. My Helix 12 at the console reads about two tenths of what the battery does, Unfortunately my Mega 360 and my front sonars read below 12 at an average of 11.5 I verified this with a voltage meter as well as the sonar voltage read outs. The wiring to my front is obviously faulty and will be replaced with 10 gauge wiring harness directly to the battery instead of the accessory switch. I will report back next week with the results.
    Not necessarily faulty. All wire has resistance, and when you get a long run with much current running, the voltage drop can become large. Bigger wire and a direct route will reduce the drop going to the bow.

    When I rewired mine, I ran #10 from the battery to the fuse block via an extra switch in my dash. That way I can turn off all of my electronics with one switch. 10 years ago or so, I recommended somebody on here use #12 and was told it was overkill, but obviously it wasn’t.

    Don’t forget to put a fuse or breaker in your #10 near the battery.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy9nc View Post
    So i was out on the lake yesterday for a few hours. Used the big motor a couple of times to make position changes. The last time I went to start the motor I get the grinding sound a couple of times before it would kick over. I have a brand new X2 power group 31 agm battery from batteries plus, only 5 months old. It stays on the charger all the time. I noticed on my helix unit the battery voltage was below 12, bouncing between 11.8/9.
    I have 1 helix 12, 2 helix 10s, and 1 helix 9, an ethernet hub, a mega 360, and ultrex, power poles also.
    I am wondering if I need a dedicated battery for all this stuff?
    I was out only 5 hours yesterday and everything was fully charged before i went out.

    Thoughts?
    I have basically the same as you, minus the power poles.
    Recently installed a battery monitor, mine pulls around 6amps with all units at full brightness.
    Assuming your Ultrex is on their own batteries?
    Console [HELIX 10MSI G3N || HELIX 10MSI G3N]
    Bow [HELIX 12 CHIRP SI GPS G2N] || RC-2] || [HELIX 10MSI G4N] || [M360 UNIVERSAL MOUNT] || [Mega Live]
    ULTERRA80/US2/IPLINK-60" BT || 2xAS ETH 5PXG || Victron IP67 12V/25A || [NoCo Genius GX2440 24V/40A]
    [X2 GROUP 31] x 3 || [Battleborn 31 lithium]
    Alumacraft Voyageur 175/Yamaha VF115LA

  10. #10
    Test your voltage at the plug at the back of the unit. I did this and the reading there was almost 1 volt higher than what the unit said. I wouldn’t go by the voltage readings on these units unless you’ve checked them against the plug and they read similar voltage.

  11. Member Wayne P.'s Avatar
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by CRAWFW View Post
    Test your voltage at the plug at the back of the unit. I did this and the reading there was almost 1 volt higher than what the unit said. I wouldn’t go by the voltage readings on these units unless you’ve checked them against the plug and they read similar voltage.
    The unit readout is loaded voltage. A meter doesn't put a load on the circuit.
    Wayne Purdum
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    Helix 12 CHIRP MEGA+ SI G3N/G4N, Helix 15 CHIRP MEGA SI+ GPS G4N
    SOLIX 12 SI/G3, Helix 8 CHIRP MEGA SI+ G4N, Ultrex 80/LINK, MEGA360,
    MEGA LIVE, LIVE TL

  12. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne P. View Post
    The unit readout is loaded voltage. A meter doesn't put a load on the circuit.
    X2
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  13. #13
    I guess I was referring to checking your supply voltage at the plug and not to consider the units reading as your supply voltage. I wasn’t sure what the head unit was reading but now I know it’s not the supply voltage.

  14. Member Bob B's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by CRAWFW View Post
    I guess I was referring to checking your supply voltage at the plug and not to consider the units reading as your supply voltage. I wasn’t sure what the head unit was reading but now I know it’s not the supply voltage.
    I think what you aren't understanding is that reading the voltage on the plug without being connect and the unit turned on .... is NOT the true supply voltage. It very well may be the same as the battery voltage with no load on the circuit. If there is a bad connection that causes voltage drop under load you will never know it.

    There will be voltage drop across the wiring, fuses, and connections that doesn't show up until there is current flow. A static voltage check will only show a problem if the circuit is completely open.

    The voltage reading from the unit not only shows the drop across the wiring circuit, but also any potential drop across it's own power plug.
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  15. Member
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob B View Post
    I think what you aren't understanding is that reading the voltage on the plug without being connect and the unit turned on .... is NOT the true supply voltage. It very well may be the same as the battery voltage with no load on the circuit. If there is a bad connection that causes voltage drop under load you will never know it.

    There will be voltage drop across the wiring, fuses, and connections that doesn't show up until there is current flow. A static voltage check will only show a problem if the circuit is completely open.

    The voltage reading from the unit not only shows the drop across the wiring circuit, but also any potential drop across it's own power plug.
    The Hummingbird power cord has a slot in the top of the connector so that you can use a voltage meter to test your voltage while under load.

  16. Member Bob B's Avatar
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by geodebasser View Post
    The Hummingbird power cord has a slot in the top of the connector so that you can use a voltage meter to test your voltage while under load.
    Yes it does ... and that is the best way to test with a meter there with the unit powered up. The only thing not taken into account by reading there is the drop across the connector itself. Comparing the reading there to the voltage reading on the unit can be a good way to determine if the power connector itself is the problem.

    The power cable must be removed from the cable collector to do the reading on the side of the cable plug.

    What I was trying to express in your quote is that the voltage reading at the end of the cable without the unit being connected and powered up is nearly meaningless.
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  17. Member
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    #17
    I have had many different fishfinders over the years. All were within .2 of being accurate.(most 1/10 or right on) If it is very difficult to do it at the connector, use the units reading as being close to actual. Not 100% but close until you need to know exactly.
    Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go

  18. Member
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    #18
    Thanks for all the responses fellas. I really think i need to just put a separate starting battery in to make sure I don't get stuck out on the lake after a long day.

  19. Bringer Of The 'Bird sfw1960's Avatar
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    #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by CatFan View Post
    X2
    Ah, the voices of reason.

    Power is additive, in this case current per unit, my old junket had the TM wiring cobbled before I got it and those LAME toggle switches that were NEVER meant to take the whipping modern stuff easy fries.
    Enter the 4/0 for the TM with pencil torch soldered ring terminals and the #6 factory harness turned electronics bus.
    I've had countless people argue that I don't "need" it - but what I really don't "need" is someone telling me how much voltage drop and troublesome power distribution can be.
    RFI is all I've ever struggled with , but you're going to get that when you run your XDCR cable right down PWM alley, where the OEMs tell you not to.
    It's silly not to have a battery for 3-4 units, a big battery is good but they all drain and you don't head out for the long run with a quarter tank!
    Robert
    Newaygo CTY, MI
    Helix12MSI G2N v1.84/Helix10MSI G2N v1.84/Helix10MDI G2N v1.84/ASGPSHSx2/iPilotLinkv2.15/2.04RC-1+2/