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  1. Member
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by BassCatKev View Post
    Whatever you circled came right off with one strike with steel wool. It was nothing relevant I don't think although I appreciate you pointing it out.
    Here is pic of that area after steel wool.

    No worries! I’d leave you with 2 thoughts on that issue: 1) that connection probably has to be machined to tighter tolerance than anything else on a trailer. If it isnt dead-on you’ll notice it every time you hit the brake or gas. So even residue is gonna make it more difficult to close (and that’s a good thing). 2) like other things in life it’s probably better to have it a bit tighter than too loose. You can fix too tight but it’s a real pain to deal with too loose.

  2. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #22
    We would oil the pivot bolt and lightly lubricate the pins and cam areas.

  3. Member
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    Nov 2017
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    #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    We would oil the pivot bolt and lightly lubricate the pins and cam areas.
    And would this best be done by physically removing the pivot bolt while trailer attached to truck and other removable pins in their holes?
    Any precautions to take if fairly certain the pivot bolt has never been removed? Any certain class of oil?

  4. No Bullchit cd4th's Avatar
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    Mar 2005
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    #24
    Leave it off the truck. Just put all the pins in to keep things in place and then remove the pivot bolt.

  5. Bobby8
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    Nov 2015
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    San Antonio
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    #25
    Been following this. Kevin, are the top and bottom washers loose on your pivot point bolt? Went out and checked mine (2015) and both are loose. Never had an issue with mine. As suggested to this point, got tobe something going on with the bolt or hinge.

  6. Member
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    #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby8 View Post
    Been following this. Kevin, are the top and bottom washers loose on your pivot point bolt? Went out and checked mine (2015) and both are loose. Never had an issue with mine. As suggested to this point, got tobe something going on with the bolt or hinge.
    I'll check when I get home but my guess is hell no not loose at all

  7. No Bullchit cd4th's Avatar
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    #27
    In my case, they're not "loose". I keep just a bit of tension on the pivot bolt that it takes just a slight bit of effort to swing it around. Personal preference, but I feel it keeps things just a bit more secure and no excess play/wear that isn't needed.

  8. Member
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    #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby8 View Post
    Been following this. Kevin, are the top and bottom washers loose on your pivot point bolt? Went out and checked mine (2015) and both are loose. Never had an issue with mine. As suggested to this point, got tobe something going on with the bolt or hinge.
    The bottom washer actually is loose.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. Bobby8
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    #29
    I was shooting from the hip on the washers. Don't know how it came out of the factory but with both of my washers loose and spinning freely and my tongue working as it is supposed to, if one or both of your washers are tight then that could indicate a problem with the hinge. I sure you will get it figured out once you get the pin out to inspect.

  10. Member
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    #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby8 View Post
    I was shooting from the hip on the washers. Don't know how it came out of the factory but with both of my washers loose and spinning freely and my tongue working as it is supposed to, if one or both of your washers are tight then that could indicate a problem with the hinge. I sure you will get it figured out once you get the pin out to inspect.
    I can spin the bottom washer. But for all I know it has always been that way. It's not like the nut is loose.
    At this point I'm going to assume my issue is with this pivot bolt in some way like several of you have already said.

  11. Member
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    Nov 2017
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    #31
    The lower pivot bolt nut and washer csme off no problem. I have doused with PB Blaster. I can somewhat easily turn pivot bolt but it won't come UP. The threads are all the way down to the bottom of bolt. Just put wood under it and hit with hammer?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. Member
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    #32
    Never got pivot bolt out. It never came up even a little. I'm terrified to break something. I PB Blasted the heck out of it. I knocked the bottom of the bolt several times with sledge hammer. Nothing. I'm eventually able to get both removable pins in their holes right now (they were in while trying to remove pivot bolt). I decided to stop for the night and reassess while knowing I can manage to get trailer closed and get to lake tomorrow.
    Moving forward.........
    As shown earlier in this thread, it's just a tad off from pins going in without yanking on trailer. I see Zero damaged or missing metal. EVERYTHING looks clean to me. Even the pivot bolt area doesn't look bad.
    Is it possible this pivot bolt is somehow causing this?

    It doesn't make sense to me but this stuff isn't my specialty either. I can turn the pivot bolt, just can't get it up. Should I order a new SS pivot bolt for if I get this one out? Or is it just a matter of getting this one out and cleaning it up?
    I've read old threads on this issue.WHERE are you whacking with a hammer and wood? Where specifically? How hard can you hit it? This is only a 2017 trailer. I've read where guys with 14 year old trailers get this issue resolved no problem.
    So what's MY problem?

  13. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #33
    Be patient, use the PB blaster for a few days, swing the tongue back and forth each time, be sure to spray it into the those areas with all the rust, turn the bolt while tapping on the threaded end with a nut on it, but backed off a little past the threads on the bolt to avoid thread damage. May take few days for the penetrant to do its job
    After the bolt is out, put both pins in and run a straight shank reamer thru the hole to clean it up. Pretty sure that is a .500 hole
    Do Not use a drill for this
    Lube the bolt well with marine grease and reinstall with a new self locking nut

    Example low cost reamer: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Adjusta...s_id=256298011
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  14. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #34
    We understand it’s only a 2017 model year trailer. Even with that those pivot areas are dry on lubricant and the water settles into those bolt faces and rusting ensues. Once the areas rust on the bolt faces the bolt is locked in place by the rust. Stay with a light lubricant and working the pivot, which eventually it will loosen slightly. Otherwise it’s a drill the Center out and knock the bolt out situation for most. A long and tedious process in either case and patience is your friend now.

  15. Member
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    #35
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    Be patient, use the PB blaster for a few days, swing the tongue back and forth each time, be sure to spray it into the those areas with all the rust, turn the bolt while tapping on the threaded end with a nut on it, but backed off a little past the threads on the bolt to avoid thread damage. May take few days for the penetrant to do its job
    After the bolt is out, put both pins in and run a straight shank reamer thru the hole to clean it up. Pretty sure that is a .500 hole
    Do Not use a drill for this
    Lube the bolt well with marine grease and reinstall with a new self locking nut

    Example low cost reamer: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Adjusta...s_id=256298011
    Thanks. I'll have the wife turn the bolt while I'm tapping the bolt from underneath. Thanks for the nut tip. A friend told them that one over the phone last night. I'd never thought of that. Once I get bolt out, wouldn't shooting PB Blaster in that hole be a good thing to remove rust and crud before greasing and replacing the pivot bolt?

  16. Member
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    #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    We understand it’s only a 2017 model year trailer. Even with that those pivot areas are dry on lubricant and the water settles into those bolt faces and rusting ensues. Once the areas rust on the bolt faces the bolt is locked in place by the rust. Stay with a light lubricant and working the pivot, which eventually it will loosen slightly. Otherwise it’s a drill the Center out and knock the bolt out situation for most. A long and tedious process in either case and patience is your friend now.

    1. I understand the part about spinning the pivot bolt (the actual pivot bolt itself) with a wrench while tapping the underside of it. I am able to do that now. I totally understand that. But others are telling me to actually pivot the tongue while doing this. Now in my mind I can't do that for safety reasons. While I'm removing pivot bolt, aren't the two removable pins supposed to be in place so that the trailer tongue doesn't fall to the ground and cause damage (that's a lot of weight)? Please tell me if I'm wrong here but I've been operating under the assumption that the tongue must be "straight" and other two pins in while messing with pivot bolt.

    2. You keep mentioning staying with a light lubricant. Are you saying this in regards to aiding in REMOVING this pivot bolt or in what to put on the bolt after removing?
    Threads I read from back in 2016 consistently said to use wheel bearing grease. Once I get it out, I want to use exactly what BCB says to apply to this SS pivot bolt.

    I totally see your point about even a few years can cause this. I will be patient. I'll have to close the trailer this afternoon to tow to the lake and I'll have to open it back up to store in garage on Sunday. I'll hit it with PB Blaster (unless you say otherwise) a few more times over the weekend while it sits in the parking lot. All of this may boil down to me not hitting that bolt hard enough. I want to make sure I've thought everything out and did what I can to break down rust/gunk inhibiting bolt removal the best I can.
    You guys are wonderful for boat owners like me who are inflicted with neurosis. Appreciate you very much.

  17. Bobby8
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    Nov 2015
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    #37
    As said above let this thingsoak for a day or two. I would move thetongue a few inches and spray, move and spray and let it sit. I don’t knowabout PB Blaster, we used Breakfree in my years as a crew chief in themilitary. Let it sit then if you are by yourself, I would tap the hinge boltwith the wood, turn the tongue a few inches and tap again. The tongue is not gonna fall until the boltis about out, so no worries on that for a while. You’re gonna need a wooden dowel or a driftto go into the hinge once the threads are no longer visible to tap on if thebolt is not loose enough by then to pull it out. Once the bolt is close tocoming out then you could put the pins in for safety so the tongue does notfall.


  18. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #38
    the nut is a good idea on the bolt lower side and be sure the nut is outside the bolt to protect the threads.

    We use a bearing grease on the bolts here. Lucas Tacky Red is our current grease, though Valvoline red works also.

    BCB

  19. Member
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    #39
    Could the pin be bent? Wouldn't take much.

  20. Member
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    #40
    Quote Originally Posted by greenlion View Post
    Could the pin be bent? Wouldn't take much.
    I don't think so. I got the pivot pin up about an inch last Friday but didn't have a steel punch to knock it rest of way up. I think I'll get it out, clean it, and replace it ok. If it STILL catches on the other side like it has been, after that, then I'll have to consider that.

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