I have refinished kitchen cabinets before but never painted them. For those of you that have painted them before; any do's and dont's?
I have refinished kitchen cabinets before but never painted them. For those of you that have painted them before; any do's and dont's?
Don’t use a brush. Do use a sprayer.
I really like the wood look. Don’t care for the painted ones. But to each his own. I would go to a good paint store and ask questions.
I've never had any luck painting them, Seems to chip real easy or peel. I've really tried to do the correct prep also. I have stripped and re stained them, I white washed a set that looked terrific. Good luck
Mike Wright '07 Ranger 520vx
Henrico Va./Henrico NC.
Originally Posted by Cbump
This.
AND USE the special paint made for cabinets
Tim Messer ~ Lake Ariel, Pa.
US Army 1968 ~ 1971
2019 Ranger RT188 ~ Merc PRO XS ~ MK Ultrex
The problem with painting old kitchen cabinets is all the grease and oil they have absorbed over the years. You can prep all you want but the cabinets have absorbed oil and grease. It is not just in the first layer it is soaked into the wood. Paint doesn't stick to oil or grease. The only thing I know you can do is sand, sand and sand. Even then I am not sure how well the paint will stick.
BulletTJ
Tim
There is never a wrong time
to do the right thing!
I just finished yesterday. Agree on a sprayer. I just used a Wagner 570 power sprayer and it did a good job. We sanded first with 220 grit paper. While you are not trying to get down to bare wood the better you sand the better your finish. Don’t go cheap on the primer. Need to seal the wood. On the finish coat we used a semi gloss and it looks nice. Time consuming job but well worth it. Good luck.
Steve
2006 Sylvan Expedition Sport
2006 Yamaha F150 TXR s/n 63P L 1041829
We do it full time there’s a lot of steps and not every cabinet is the same
#1 most workers at the paint store have zero painting experience. #2 special paint for cabinets??? lol #3 If your cabinets were properly finished in the beginning they won't be absorbing anything..especially grease. Spraying will achieve the best results but brush and roll can be done with excellent results also. Do Not use a latex paint! There are many products that will produce great results but at a quality oil based paint would be a minimun.
A lot of do's and dont's. Find a professional paint store. Not lowes. The one that the guys who do it for a living use. Sherwin williams At least. Then go introduce yourself and get to know them ask a lot of questions and they will help. We have smaller paint stores that deal mainly with the pro's that would walk you through the process. Stay away from gloss or even semi gloss. Go satin finish
We did our 80’s oak cabinetry about three years ago. My wife used chalk paint. It goes on real well and then they have a wax that goes on after that, she also distressed the edges a bit, and it turned out fantastic ( she has a fine arts degree so this kind of stuff is super easy for her), and we’ve not had any issues at all with it in three years.
Triton Tr17, Yamaha 130
Lund Pro V 1900, Optimax 200
Smokercraft Pro Mag 182, Suzuki DF140
Helix 9si, 10si mega
Minnkota Talon, Terrova
Oil based bullseye 123 primer and Sherwin pro classic paint.
Yes.. there is SPECIAL paint for caninets.
Do some research and make sure you sand and primer
Here is the paint we used. PERFECT and very hard once cured. Looks like original.
https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...UIdBmYQgTYIkgo
Tim Messer ~ Lake Ariel, Pa.
US Army 1968 ~ 1971
2019 Ranger RT188 ~ Merc PRO XS ~ MK Ultrex
IMO. Don't use anything that's water clean up. My house was built in 63 with stained cabinets. Around 76-77 my mom decieded to paint and was done in oil. Held up great. I bought it around 90 91. Wife decided she didn't like color and wanted to change. I let a paint store guy convince me to go to the new enamels with water clean up. Scuffed and primed all 34 doors and drawers plus cabinets. Couldn't lay new crap down at all without texture or brush strokes in it on cabinets. Which made the sprayed doors look different. Chit didn't hold up two years before it was rubbing off regularly used doors and drawers. Redoing was 5 times the work as the first two times.
That said. Use a good oil based paint. I use SW and you can lay it down with minmal brush strokes if any. If you hit it with penetrol and a lil mineral sprits and flow it on with a good boars hair brush. Less strokes the best. Forget the oderless stuff. It's gonna smell for a few weeks but it will hold up and look good!
Jim Harvey
I've had good luck with Farrell Calhoun products. There are several products that clean the residue off from years of cooking. I've always taken the fronts and doors off, roughed them up with sandpaper and used a farrell bonding primer and a good oil based gloss top coat. I use a graco sprayer. I did my house with a chocolate brown about 10 yrs ago and they've held up well. The primer is starting to show a bit on the top of the door where the pullout trash cans are. I've done a few sets off white that I brushed the last coat and went over that with a dark glaze that came out well. Depends on the finish you like.
Kudos to Benny Moore they make some good stuff. Advance is probably great for cabinets but it says for trim doors and cabinetry so I wouldnt really call it special cab paint
Use a wood sealer prior to painting
I use Pre catalyzed lacquer for kitchen cabinets. I have the customer pick the color, usually Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. Then I have my local paint company match it with the lacquer paint! I use a conventional automotive type spray gun. I do the doors and drawers in my shop and let a house painter do the frames and sides. Lacquer is very flammable so I rarely will spray in a customers home.
Don't think a homeowner can do that though
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