Suzuki 250 ss Charging crank battery

[BassCatKev]

I have a 4 bank charger on bilge wall to charge 3 trolling and 1 crank batteries. No issues with it. I have some interference in my front unit with 2D sonar when I'm on the trolling motor. I've separated wires from trolling steering cable. Wires underneath the front bow panel are organized and separated. the transducer that's getting interference is clamped to the lower unit of trolling motor in the standard way. I know there are dozens of causes for interference. I heard disconnecting the battery charger leads from the crank battery (that's were my electronics run as well) can sometimes eliminate the issue. I'd like to try it (amongst other things)

So, does the 250ss really charge up the battery to the point where a charging bank isn't necessary? If I do disconnect those two leads of the charger, do you just wrap them up in electrical tape and put them out of the way?

[booter]

I have a 4 bank charger on bilge wall to charge 3 trolling and 1 crank batteries. No issues with it. I have some interference in my front unit with 2D sonar when I'm on the trolling motor. I've separated wires from trolling steering cable. Wires underneath the front bow panel are organized and separated. the transducer that's getting interference is clamped to the lower unit of trolling motor in the standard way. I know there are dozens of causes for interference. I heard disconnecting the battery charger leads from the crank battery (that's were my electronics run as well) can sometimes eliminate the issue. I'd like to try it (amongst other things)

So, does the 250ss really charge up the battery to the point where a charging bank isn't necessary? If I do disconnect those two leads of the charger, do you just wrap them up in electrical tape and put them out of the way?

Hey Kevin, for troubleshooting interference, the easiest thing would be either 1, pull the fuses on the charger leads (if your charger has those) to see if that helps, or 2, remove the charger leads and just wrap with tape. As far the alternator charging your main battery, I'm not sure it will fully charge your battery like a charger would.

In regards to your clamps, do you have the ones that extend the sonar wires a few inches away from the trolling motor shaft? I believe that with Minn Kota trolling motors, there might be a ground issue on there as well that can be improved or cleaned up to reduce interference.

[BassCatKev]

I do not have anything that extends the wires a few inches from the shaft. My wires are taped straight to the shaft. But I separate the wires of the trolling steering cable and it doesn't help any. The fuse in top of tm is fine. So that's not the issue.

Do you have a link to this separator piece you speak of?

[BassCatKev]

Booter do you have a link to that gadget that would hold ducer wire an inch off shaft?

[billnorman1]

Our 4 strokes have a lot of charging current available. I have been running an AGM 31 Duracell for the last 5 or 6 years. I'm using it with my new 200DF. I have always found my charging battery better than 12.7 without using a separate charger even after tournaments. Occasionally I will disconnect one of the cables and charge it with a portable charger after a long tournament just in case.


Suzuki Outboards have been designed with high output alternators to provide ample power for engine & onboard electronics, even at low rpm. All V6 models (DF200-DF300) have 54 amp alternators that will output a full 38 amps at 1000 RPMs. The Big Block 150/175 are equipped with 44 amp alternators and will output over 35 amps at 1000 RPMs. This is enough power to keep an assortment of electronics up and running.

[booter]

Booter do you have a link to that gadget that would hold ducer wire an inch off shaft?

I've been looking for it and can't find it. I thought Brandon Palaniuk had something similar where he ran his wires down his 360 pole and then over to his trolling motor. Another thing is that you might want to add a dedicated wiring harness for your graphs. I know that the dedicated harnesses built by Sonar Pros and Sea Clear seem to clear up a lot of sonar issues.

I also found these on Amazon:: https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-1005-4-.../dp/B00QICJF78

[JoePA]

I believe the product is made by Chad Ashmore? https://ashmoremarine.com/

[BassCatKev]

Well I would buy one of those products but I just cut all the tape and zip ties off the tm shaft AND tm steering cable and held all the wires far away from the shaft and steering cable. Put tm back in water and gave it power and same interference as before. Made absolutely no difference.
What about the transducer puck itself that's clamped to tm. Could loosening it and moving it an inch make any difference? I can only move it closer to prop but there is space. What about putting a piece of rubber between it and tm?
Also the interference only occurs when tm is in the water. If I pull it out and give it juice the interference doesn't show up.
I know this is getting off the Suzuki subject but since we're here.....