All gaskets are uniform no variance. The carb body appears to be warped.. Twitch may have a carb body close by you. Not sure but in your last picture the bowl and body appear to be fine and will seal with the OEM gasket.
But I'll defer to SuzukiDave as he appears to be in the know..
ok i see the photos now.Originally Posted by basscat21
that gap is exactly offset by the matching thickness gasket on the outside. they compress to the same extent when you tighten.
you said you could hold pressure on the fuel bulb. if there was an air gap there then gas would be pouring out of the carb everytime you pumped the bulb.
that's definitely a dangerous move.But I'll defer to SuzukiDave as he appears to be in the know..
the extent of my expertise with plastic carbs, is i have a 1994 evinrude 200 with roughly similar carbs that i rebuilt not long ago. i don't actually recall the thick gasket though. pretty sure mine used an o-ring.
I have a dumb question. If the motor was level, and a good needle and seat set correct, would fuel still leak out when pumping the primer bulb?
my understanding is the float bowl will fill up and then the float will rise and the needle will close off the fuel input, so no more fuel enters the carb until some fuel is consumed by the motor and the float drops and the cycle repeats. that's why the bulb goes hard. the fuel line is full of fuel and has nowhere to push fuel.
I was given two a 346797 mine are 346798. Looking at them they look identical. Is there a difference? That is not visible?All gaskets are uniform no variance. The carb body appears to be warped.. Twitch may have a carb body close by you. Not sure but in your last picture the bowl and body appear to be fine and will seal with the OEM gasket.
But I'll defer to SuzukiDave as he appears to be in the know..
I inspected that body pretty good its straight as far as I can tell.
Thanks, I understand now how that works.
The circled areas appear to show warping I'd put a straight edge on in and put the float bowl on a flat surface and see if it is warped.
Inkedcarbwarp_LI.jpg
I was given two a 346797 mine are 346798. Is there a difference that would matter?
get a piece of glass and put them flat against , or use a small straight edge it will tell you if they are warped,also I might have a few if it comes down to that, not sure what the numbers are but will check what I have left in the cellar ok...
1990 374V Ranger Still kickin' bass after all these years
Will check again, and thank you!
Twitch, thank you. BTW whacked them last night....
There's a Master mechanic on You Tube that removes the brass tubes, lays carb on 320 sandpaper on a mirror and lightly sands in circles, you can see the high and low points and he continues both the carb body and the float bowls until perfectly flat. Here ya go....
Good old Nick, great guy and a good friend. I watched it from the beginning twice until the end and I didn't see him remove anything from the carb body such as the emulsion tube and didn't see him sand them either. Thanks for posting though.
Ok I got a in line low pressure guage, pumped ball to 15 psi, started motor, slowly went to 0. No fuel pressure!
Now the questions, what does the little pump(arrow) do? Would that stop the fuel pressure? I did rebuild the VRO, watched every video on it, and was pretty meticulous in doing it. Seems to be my problem.
Note I do have mix in tanks, and it has been consuming oil.
I appreciate all the comments and advice!
That little pump removes the vapor from the VST, would not cause a loss of fuel pressure.
basscat21 any update on the problem???
Waiting on a new VRO to come, I rebuilt the 26 yr old one, but have no pressure to fuel rail. Compression is good, its the last thing. Btw Chuggbugged up a bunch last night, had a blast, first topwater nite all year. TM fishing till I get it sorted out.
Way to stay on them bro....
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