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  1. #1
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    1999 tracker 175 complete remodel

    ok you remod junkies!!
    just started a full remod of a completely destroyed tracker 175.......and i mean completely !! will probably even need a new wiring harness and 50 hp motor rebuild. currently i have removed all decks wood and aluminum. also have removed all poly foam ( which i hope to never do again). have looked at some materials for the decking from Boat Outfitters in Florida, specifically Coosa board and the King Starboard. Any info from you pros that have used these materials would be appreciated. any fails you would have done different would be nice. i really would like to never have to replace decks again, in my lifetime anyway.

    thanks Dave

    also, any other ideas for composite materials for the decking ??

  2. Member
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    #2
    sorry, guess i should do the pics of how it started.thumbnail_image0.jpgthumbnail_image1.jpgthumbnail_image3.jpgthumbnail_image4.jpgthumbnail_image5.jpg

    sorry about the repeated pic.

  3. Member
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    #3
    If it doesn't work out you could rent it out to a family of squirrels. Good luck. Keep us updated and post a bunch of photos.

  4. Member
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    #4
    No where to go but up on that one. Look forward to seeing how it turns out. If you go with 1/2" Coosa from Boat Outfitters go with the 48 X 31.5 size if you can, you can get it shipped ground for $15. Anything larger is going to cost a ton to ship.

  5. Member
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    #5
    now that's funny K, don,t care who you are!!!
    The squirrels would have to fight off the other rodents already occupying the boat!!

  6. Member
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    #6
    thanks will,
    the shipping price for the large sheets of coosa and king starboard were @ 300$. for one or 6 sheets. shipper says it had to be palletized. i assume you have used the coosa board before, did you use fiberglass or gellcoat when you used it or just as a replacement for the wood??

  7. Member
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    #7
    Willwork,
    you get out on the big lake much???
    20 years ago this boat would come up for the Coho March Madness, hope to return it to better than its former glory.

    Dave

  8. Member
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    #8
    ok, so the puzzle begins.
    this is the aluminum that's left, most of which will be used again.
    Some will be replaced with a composite deck material (to be determined). In fact a lot is still being determined. The rest of the pictures are after 4 or 5 days of chipping , scraping, heat gunning, and pressure washing the hull and most of the panels.



    thumbnail_image0 (1).jpgthumbnail_image0 (2).jpgthumbnail_image0 (3).jpgthumbnail_image0 (4).jpgthumbnail_image0 (5).jpg


    we hope to start replacing deck parts up front and re-pouring the urethane foam soon. please, any advice on anything would be awesome.

    Dave

  9. Member
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    #9
    WOW! Just getting it cleaned up was a major improvement. Good call on going with composite materials. Water intrusion and rot will be significantly decreased. Since you've got everything out I would take a look at all the lids, etc and see if maybe adding some reinforcement will make them stronger and less likely to flex.

  10. Member
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    #10
    true kyrangerman,
    the flexing was a problem before, the spot welds on all the tracker lids broke after using for a short time. most had to be riveted back in place.
    my son and i are un sure on changing the layout or adding to the boat decking and lockers. may keep the aluminum rear decks and everything forward of that be the king starboard. i just haven't found anyone yet that has used it. with the cost of materials no one wants a 700$ mistake on something that could have been avoided.

    you fish KY lake much??? first place we will probably take this when completed !!

  11. Member
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    #11
    Friend of mine re-did all of his decks with old traffic signs . Bought them at a scrap metal yard . No wood to rot and boat is much lighter .

  12. Member
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by firecap#246 View Post
    true kyrangerman,
    the flexing was a problem before, the spot welds on all the tracker lids broke after using for a short time. most had to be riveted back in place.
    my son and i are un sure on changing the layout or adding to the boat decking and lockers. may keep the aluminum rear decks and everything forward of that be the king starboard. i just haven't found anyone yet that has used it. with the cost of materials no one wants a 700$ mistake on something that could have been avoided.

    you fish KY lake much??? first place we will probably take this when completed !!
    Haven't fished KY Lake much in the last few years. I did a lot when I fished the local club tournaments. My dad who passed 3 years ago lived on Barkley so when I was in that area I was usually on Barkley. I live in the middle of the state so most of my time is spent on Nolin, Rough River, Barren & Green River since they are all within 1 - 1.5 hours from my house.

  13. Member
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    #13
    If you added decking it would probably help with the flexing issue. My first boat was a 1979 16' Tracker. The previous owner had built a casting deck over the back bench seat which made it a lot better if anyone was fishing out of the back of the boat.

  14. Member
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    #14
    ok ,
    the whole composite deck material is an irritation to say the least. King Starboard 1/2 in. x 5' x 8' = 456$ .
    interstate plastics mariene board 1/2in. x 54'' x 8' = 315$
    e plastics cutting board 1/2 in. x 4' x 8' = 192$ and you can clean the fish on the deck!!!

    i am waiting on a price on 1/2' x 4' x 8' sea board grip x ........... my guess is it wont beat the cutting board. im trying to weigh the potential issues with the cutting board material on my deck!!

  15. Member
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    #15

    deck material

    Quote Originally Posted by Upstate Gamecock View Post
    Friend of mine re-did all of his decks with old traffic signs . Bought them at a scrap metal yard . No wood to rot and boat is much lighter .

    hey upstate,

    how did the boat look when he finished it?? i could be going that direction because of the cost of composite materials. did he carpet or rino line his decks??

    dave

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    #16
    Starboard weighs a ton and you do not have enough support to keep the starboard from warping. I use the 1/2 DOT finished Deck Starboard for Poling platform decks. It needs support. You can go 1/2in Coosa 26, glass 1 layer 1708 then 2 layers Chop on top and bottom, glass in reinforcements in the centers of large suspended areas just like the boat manufacturers do. Will give you a bulletproof deck forever. PITA to do this way. A sheet of 5052 1/8in aluminum is much cheaper. You look to have enough bracing to just install a aluminum deck. Call around to see who sells the aluminum and price against everything else. The price difference will shock you. Aluminum is much cheaper.

  17. Member
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    #17
    thanks for the info rojo.

    i thought that might be an easier way to go....aluminum decking. i was a little apprehensive about removing too much weight from the front. i have the tools to work on aluminum. im pretty sure with everything ive removed from the front and mid deck has to be at least 150 lbs or more. surely i need to add at least a 1/3 of that back.......just guessing......im no engineer. ever run into a boat that the bow was too light ??

    also, aluminum would need a covering of some kind. hoping the composite material would be a finished product.

    if the starboard is both heavy and warps easy, i wonder if all products will have the same problems. how much framing was nessary for the star board ? Found seaboard gripX , similar to sea board but less expensive. have any experience with that product ?? im not dismissing anything anyone has said.....only playing devils advocate...trying to see all sides of the issue before pulling the trigger.

  18. Member
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    #18
    I buy all the sheet plastics from Piedmont Plastics and the New Orleans distributor is a big Starboard warehouse, I don't have experience with other products. Being a Unlimited HP USCG Chief Engineer, I can address your concerns, stability is your question on the weight. When these type boats are are made Longitudinal, Transverse, and Vertical Stability are concerns but not the total driving force for the burnt brain cells used in the design. Cost, Liability exposure, Passing USCG tests are the big ones. A sheet of 5052 1/8in 4x8 aluminum is 56#'s per sheet. Plywood 1/2in is about 1.5#'s per sq/ft or close to 50#'s per sheet. Aluminum is heavier. I will shoot you a picture of my tin boat floor, I had a bunch of leftover camo Seadek so I topped the aluminum with it. Came out great. I used oversized flat head aluminum rivets to install, doesn't make a sound when walked on. A remod like our projects should be an instance not a pattern. Meaning do it only once. Some of the stuff you do is great, some you wish you did it differently after completion. Your approach is very good because your working on your plan "To" attack first. I would go all aluminum, dropping back to .100 gauge for non-weight bearing will save you some money and weight.

  19. Member
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    #19
    Losing weight is never a problem. The 50hp engine will thank you for that. Go with aluminum decks. You can use the extra money you saved on updated electronics, new tackle, Bimini top, etc.

  20. Member
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    #20
    here is a picture of my aluminum boat deck with the Camo Seadek. It's super quiet for catching Crappie way back in the Swamp where the bass boats can't go. Also a bit dusty but you can get the idea.

    Aluminum Deck.jpg

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