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  1. Member
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    #21
    Ok thanks Joe Just to verify

    The nut under the anode should be 55ft lbs
    The nut holding the anode on located under the plastic piece that pops out should be 40ft. lbs

    Correct?

    This is likely where I messed up then as I under torqued both.

  2. Member
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    #22
    I should also verify that all power head stud nuts are 25ft lbs. (hopefully that makes sense don't have manual in front of me at the time but I'm thinking it sunder power head to mid section may and if I remember right is about 8 nuts or so, anyway the important thing is that I am correct in saying they are all 25ft lbs?

  3. Member
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    #23
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  4. Member
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    #24
    Ok another thing I thought off, when torqing down a few of the nuts on the power head and actually the nuts on the LU that the cracks are around I had to use an adapter box wrench for my torque wrench (Crow's foot) any tips when using these.

    I think the two bolts that have cracks around them were the only nuts I had to use this set up regarding LU and I know there were a few on the power head to mid section as well but iI don't recall which. Also I ws able to find 3" adapters in a closed end but only like 1" in andopen end box style, anyone know of where I could get 3" in the open end box style?

    Thanks
    Last edited by joeim8; 08-25-2020 at 07:36 PM.

  5. Member
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    #25
    Update guys, I received all of the necessary parts and I believe I have all of the necessary tools to complete the job this Saturday, there are a few nuts that my torque wrench can not reach even with an adapter, crows foot but I will figure out something concerning those nuts.

    I did want to post some pics of the new (used) mid section I received as it appears to have seems exactly where my existing has cracks, I don't think these are cracks but it is really tough to tell so wanted to post a few pics of both the existing and new. The existing is still on the motor so it will be the one with nuts still attached, the new without.IMG_1632.jpgIMG_1633.jpgIMG_1634.jpgIMG_1635.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. Member
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    #26
    I know Crappie Bob had mentioned earlier in the post that they may just be casting edges and that's what I think I'm seeing on the new, man it's really tough on the new one but I still feel like my existing is easier to tell they are actually cracks. What do you guys think?

    I was hoping maybe some of you could just check you mid sections and let me know what you see or even post if possible.

    I really don't want to go through all of this work if the new mid section is jeopardized as well you know.

    Thanks

  7. Member
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    Mar 2020
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    Lakeland, Florida
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    #27
    As I said, still looks like casting imperfections to me. I don't see what you could have done to it to make it crack.

    Magnafluxing" is the process of using iron oxide particles and a magnetic field to locate cracks on an iron engine block. This technique is ineffective on aluminum, however, so the Magnaflux Corporation offers penetrating dyes that accomplish the same task on aluminum.

  8. Member
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    #28
    Ok thank Bob, I think you may be correct considering the new(used) one pictured but the existing pictured I'm pretty sure there are cracks off of the casting imperfections. I'm not 100% sure though as I only have these 2 to go off of but I do know that something recently has caused my sterring to feel loose and water sprays up when on pad now which it never used to so something happened not sure what.

    Anyone that can check out there own real quick and provide feedback would be really appreciated, pics would be really cool.

    Just want to be sure before I proceed with this project that one I actually need to and two the new (used) part is ok?

    Thanks guys.

  9. Member
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    Mar 2018
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    Ashland city tn
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    #29
    ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS when u plan to remove the lower , that you loosen those nuts little at a time and make sure the lower units drops down as you loosing the nuts , if you don't let the lower drop as loosening, the nuts will drive into the top above the stud and will break mid section every time. One pic looks like thats what happen hope this makes sense , not saying this was your issue but there's a distinct mark from the nut on upper part

  10. Member
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    #30
    Ok makes sense Merc, that could certainly be what happened as well.

    So I should just work my way around prior to completely removing any single nut it sounds like?

    What do you think about the new (used) mid section I pictured, do you think it is ok maybe just casting edges. I mean I know it's certainly better than the one on my motor currently as that one is for sure cracked but its so hard to tell with the new?

  11. Member
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    #31
    ya its to hard for me to tell lookin at the pic , u can always strip paint rite there to really know what u got then do little touch up? The more I look at old one the more it looks like it was pried apart with the nut. Yrs and yrs ago b4 i knew better I thought the tighter the better and gorilla the nuts and stuff and never broke or cracked a mid. Thats just my observation tho

  12. Member
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    #32
    Update guys.

    So I was all set to change the mid section today, had a buddy over all the parts/tools on hand and we decided to take the advice of some of the posts on this matter and sand down the areas on the mid section in question before proceeding and well upon doing so it does appear that these are just casting edges. So long story short we just went ahead painted the areas we sanded and called it a day. Thank you guys for bringing up that this could be the case as it does appear to be, man I was so sure they were cracks but appear just to be excess material in some areas that fooled me.

    If you recall the reason I started to inspect is becasue last time on the water while breaking in my new powerhead I thought the steering was a little loos feeling and also when looking back at the motor while running and especially around turns I noticed water spraying pretty high upward even though I was basically trimmed all the way down and in, so I also went ahead and bled the hydraulic steering in case that is what may have caused the slightly loose steering feel, no idea what caused the weird spray but maybe has somehting to do with new Fury4 prop I put on not long ago in which I'm just not used to yet, not really sure but I don't really see what else could have caused that as I have pretty much inspected everything I can think of.

    Anyway I plan on getting it out this coming Friday to finish the break in on the new power head and hopefully all goes well.

  13. Member
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    #33
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  14. Member
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    #34
    What I said That second pair of eyes worked out, does in most cases, glad you got it going without replacing something that didn't need it...

    Extra money =

  15. Member
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    Jan 2012
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    Houston, TX
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    #35
    Hi joe, sorry for delayed response. Solid mounts are just that, solid aluminum instead of bonded rubber. Made a night and day difference in my boat handling when I ditched the old rubber. Don might sell them or check Bob's machine. Worth every single dime if you're over 60 mph.
    90 Shadow 20' Mod V w/ 200 Merc - Total resto and loving it!
    Here's my build from cap-off to boat in the water.
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=336645

  16. Member
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    #36
    yep
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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