Gas in crankcase oil pro 9.9 kicker .

[SilverFox579]

I'll share my experience with similar setup, my 8hp gets fuel from same tank as my Optimax (which contains PP @ 150:1) doesn't bother it at all, idles fine, throttles up fine, runs great anywhere in RPM range. JMHO, no need to go "full throttle" just put in gear whether FWD or REV (I use FWD). Was running to town a few weeks ago and a guy passed me with a 9.9 Pro kicker in neutral and prop was spinning so fast it was just a blur.

FWIW I troll for 3 - 5hrs at a time.

[008wagon]

I’d spoke with don years Ago about running that same fuel mix in the kicker he said it would be fine .

[EuropeanAM]

I'm not convinced that it's the source of your concern, 008. Basically I know of about 2 dozen that are running it (which is a pretty small sampling).

[008wagon]

I'm not convinced that it's the source of your concern, 008. Basically I know of about 2 dozen that are running it (which is a pretty small sampling).

I went ahead and replaced the fuel pump. Gave it a oil change and will test and report back . Thanks again

[008wagon]

Ran one hour on muffs with no change in the oil level. Need to get back on the water for a real test this weekend. Will report back then with results

[SilverFox579]

Fingers crossed for you!

[008wagon]

Going to revive my old thread. Well after replacing the thermostat and fuel pump it was still making oil. Oil was thin and dark once drained . I got a new mercury carburetor kit and replaced the needle and float . Is the seat not serviceable? I sprayed merc power tune on a q tip and polished up the seat as best as possible . The carb was spotless inside . Is there anything else that could cause this problem that I’m over looking? Thanks again

[EuropeanAM]

Seat is not serviceable.

Formic Acid/Corrosion is the most common cause. I will usually replace the needle once- if there is ANY repeat problem, replace the carb as an assembly.

Without running all the way back through the thread: Did you confirm that you have a FDV (Fuel Demand Valve) in your fuel supply system?

[008wagon]

Seat is not serviceable.

Formic Acid/Corrosion is the most common cause. I will usually replace the needle once- if there is ANY repeat problem, replace the carb as an assembly.

Without running all the way back through the thread: Did you confirm that you have a FDV (Fuel Demand Valve) in your fuel supply system?

No I have not I’m not sure what I’d be looking for. Could you explain what It is ? This set up is on a ranger boat . Main is a 175 pro optimax.

[008wagon]

Ok I looked up what that is and I don’t have that . Should I ?

[EuropeanAM]

You would have one (or perhaps have an older boat that does not require one) if you have the 175 ProXS Optimax on the boat.

What is the fuel supply line configuration? (Ie: "Y" in the line, shutoff valve for kicker, separate tank for kicker, tee in the line, etc).

[008wagon]

Just a tee fitting . No shut off to the kicker or main . Comes off the 38 gallon tanks in the boat

[EuropeanAM]

I would recommend putting some form of a shutoff in the line going to the 9.9. The larger engine's fuel demands may actually be pulling fuel (or even eventually air) from the 9.9's fuel system.

Think of it this way: If even a little fuel in the 9.9's bowl evaporates, and the float drops- it's essentially the same as punching a 1/8" hole in your fuel line somewhere.

LOW fuel level in the carb can result in fuel congealing faster, or in some of the worst possible places.

Just a "seldom thought of" possibility.

[008wagon]

Thanks don i will find a valve to install . Any recommendations? Also I run 10w30 quicksilver oil in it . I’ve read that some people say running the 25w40 will help solve this problem. What is your thoughts about that? I do fish in temps below freezing though.thanks

[EuropeanAM]

Simply recommend a fuel-rated (brass) switching valve with appropriately sized fittings.

For an electric start, 25w40 is fine to use.

[008wagon]

Don , should those hose off the intake that runs to the airbox have resistance when blown into ? I removed that hose out of the airbox and it is hard to push air through or suck air back through. Thanks

[008wagon]

Don , should those hose off the intake that runs to the airbox have resistance when blown into ? I removed that hose out of the airbox and it is hard to push air through or suck air back through. Thanks

Never mind I took the oil cap off and tried it and it was clear !

[EuropeanAM]

[008wagon]

Is there any way the primer bulb could cause this ? I’ve yet to water test after replacing the needle and float . But just sitting in my garage I noticed the oil is up a 1/16 inch maybe a freckle more . It ran fine on the muffs after replacing the needle I’ve just yet to water test it on the lake. Temperature is 45-50 degrees warmer though. Could the oil just expand that much ? Thanks

[EuropeanAM]

Some expansion, or even a change in apparent level due to boat/motor "attitude" may occur.

Make sure that you have an FDV (Fuel Demand Valve) in the system. Without it, a pressurized fuel tank will force the needle open.