Quick thermostat replacement questions regarding Don's posted instructions.......

[GamblerJeff]

Motor Info:
2014 Mercury 250 ProXS- Serial# 2B089028

Hey guys-
So I am waiting on some thermostats and other misc parts that I ordered from Don (I guess Mercury is really hurting with keeping up with parts orders in these tough times, since we have no ETA on when Don's shop will even get these parts).
So anyway, I have a few questions before I get these thermostats sent to me and attempt to change them myself (have never messed with the motor really), and was hoping you all could clarify a couple things for me.

Questions I have regarding a couple of these steps I attached below from Don's FAQ sticky:
1.) When I slide back these fuel rails, Don says to make sure direct injectors stay in cylinder heads......if I am only sliding these rails back an inch or so, how can I tell if an injector comes out of the cylinder head?
2.) Don says to check for debris on the direct injectors and o-rings......if the injectors are supposed to stay in the cylinder head, and I am only sliding the fuel rails back like an inch or so, how do I see debris on those injectors and o-rings?
3.) Along the same lines, Don says to liberally oil the injector o-rings before sliding the fuel rail back against the motor......where exactly are these o-rings he is referring to?.....and are they accessible with the rails pulled back only like an inch? Wouldn't I have to remove an o-ring to oil it or no?

Thanks guys in advance for any advice or expertise with this process.
Jeff


Thermostat replacement/removal instructions from Don's FAQ sticky:

-Relieve AIR PRESSURE at the PORT SIDE rail schrader valve FIRST.

-Remove nuts that secure fuel rails (2 per rail).

-Slide rails back as far as they will slide on the studs (you MAY need to carefully unplug the direct injectors to prevent stress to the connectors)

-Direct Injectors should REMAIN IN CYLINDER HEADS

-Utilize a 8mm socket, swivel, and extension (1/4" drive) to loosen and remove the thermostat covers

-Remove thermostat, clean as needed (or grab replacement).

-Replace gasket if damaged. Be sure to remove ALL broken or damaged gasket material

-Place thermostat in place install cover over thermostat w/gasket. HOLD DOWN while installing screws to ensure it's properly seated

-Secure thermostat cover screws to 100 INCH (yes that's INCH) pounds

-Check to ensure that NO DEBRIS is present on the direct injectors, o-rings, etc

-Apply a LIBERAL amount of 2-stroke oil (same oil you run in your oil tank) to the o-rings of the direct injectors

-Carefully slide rail back into place, and seat it over the direct injectors, depressing the rail back toward the head EVENLY

-Install rail nuts... snug down evenly, and TORQUE TO 35 FT LBS.

-Reconnect any disconnected direct injector wiring connectors

-Monitor temp after next startup to confirm you reach at least 120 degrees on Smartcraft.

[Savage]

You need to get a Genuine Mercury Marine Service manual, so you can become familiar with what the components look like. Direct injectors are on top of the cylinder head and under the fuel rail. I don't know how to answer your questions without being there and showing you. You should ask someone local for hands on assistance.

[GamblerJeff]

Thanks Savage.....I actually ordered a service manual through Don on this same parts order, and I will certainly attempt to use that manual for any projects I try on my own going forward.
And I know the direct injectors are on top of the cylinder head under the fuel rail. To try and word it more clearly, my question was when I loosen or remove the fuel rail bolts, and then slide the fuel rails back (as per Don's recommendation), how can you see or access the direct injectors (or the o-rings) if I am only sliding these rails back like an inch (or enough to provide wrench clearance for the thermostat covers)?
Don said to be sure that the injectors stay within the head......so with only an inch of gap between the fuel rails and the head, can you actually see if an injector comes out?
And.....is there enough clearance to actually push an injector back in if you see one pop out?
And.....is the o-ring that Don mentioned located where the injector is (under the fuel rail), or is that black collar that appears to be attached to the rail that appears to fit over each injector port maybe considered an "o-ring" that requires the adding of oil that Don recommended?

Sav- And I do understand what you are saying about asking for local assistance, and believe me, I would prefer to have this done by an actual mechanic. Not sure about where you live, but our authorized Mercury dealers/shops around the lake I live on are all 2-3 months backed up for service. I need to get the boat back on the water, so that is why I am asking for everyone's advice, so to try and handle this myself, while trying to do it right the first time, so as not to create more problems for myself and even more time off from fishing.

Thanks for the input. Of course any other suggestions are always appreciated.

[Savage]

Questions:

1. The direct injectors are right there on top of the head, so yes you can see them. The direct injectors are pushed completely against the head.
2. Yes
3. Yes
4. O-rings are O-rings. Not sure what part you are calling a "black collar".

Don't attempt this job without the proper inch pound and foot pound torque wrenches.

[GamblerJeff]

I do have inch/pound and foot/pound torque wrenches, and I will torque everything back down to Don's specs.
So how do you get in there to oil these injector o-rings if the fuel rails are only pulled back an inch and are not off the motor?

Oh, and the black "collars" I am referring to are the black bushing/collar looking things on the back of the fuel rails where they connect at each injector port.....I guess they are just sleeves or something that butt up to the injector ports.......

[EuropeanAM]

To lubricate the DI o-rings, you can use a syringe, or even just dip your (clean) finger in 2-stroke oil and smear it all over the o-ring.

There is no "black bushing/collar looking thing on the back of the fuel rails where they connect at each injector port". The Direct/Air Injector INLET end seals (via it's o-ring) directly to the fuel rail.

[GamblerJeff]

Ok, thanks Don for the clarification. I will try the clean finger method around the o-rings before sliding the rails back. Have you all by chance heard any updates on the parts making it to you yet? Just trying get an idea of an ETA on when everything might arrive up here......

And thanks for clearing up the fuel rail confusion for me......I guess it just looked to me like three sleeves or collars, or something, protruding out on the back of each rail where it connected to each injector inlet, and I just was trying to confirm that it was not something else I needed to lubricate, or reconnect in some specific way, or whatever. No biggie.....appreciate the explanation......

[EuropeanAM]

The Parts Department would have to assist you with questions regarding availability or ship dates (contact them directly).