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  1. Member
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    #41
    Quote Originally Posted by digthemup View Post
    Electric brakes are not allowed on boat trailer, since if you do not unplug them when in the water the electric actuated magnets will activate and crap out.
    THAT IS A BUNCH OF BS. I can back mine in with it pluged or not it doesn't matter. Never had a problem in over 20 years.
    Rocket

  2. Member
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    Benton, KY
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    #42
    Quote Originally Posted by 375VTROCKET View Post
    THAT IS A BUNCH OF BS. I can back mine in with it pluged or not it doesn't matter. Never had a problem in over 20 years.
    I don't get it either. Too much room for the human error factor. If you forget to unplug them before you submerge them and it it ruins the brakes what's the point. If you forget to plug back in before you get on the road you have no lights or brakes what's the point.

    I'll stick with surge disc brakes for the simplicity.

  3. Member
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    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
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    #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger519VS View Post
    That feeling of being pushed into an intersection on wet roads is something I don't want to experience again
    That will get your attention fast, I've been there, done that. You can brownstain in a hurry when it happens.

  4. Member
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    Oct 2005
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    Oaks, PA
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    #44
    The only thing that is electric on electric brakes is a coil. This coil turns into a magnet when you apply voltage to it. These coils are sealed pretty well from water intrusion. The coil wire is insulated so there is no bare wire touching the water. The max voltage they could see is 14.8 or so depending on your settings. I think the most I have seen going to mine is 8 or so under heavy braking. Regardless, 14.8V is very low and wont short out when submerged. No need to unplug. Do your lights short out after being submerged? Ever since I changed to LED lights I do not unplug anymore when backing in. The only reason you unplug incandescent bulbs is to keep them from popping from thermal shock when they get hot and hit the colder water.

  5. Member einsteins's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
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    Davenport, Iowa
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    #45
    I am considering Electric over Hydraulic brakes for my trailer. My Hydraulic actuator is shot and my truck is already set up for Electric brakes with a controller. anyone using this type of system? Any recomendations on what brand / size I need for a heavier than average Z7?
    Thanks
    Always "Huntin" the IA Bass!

    Boat: Nitro Z7
    Primary Propulsion Unit: 200 Optimax ProXS
    Vertical Depth Propulsion Adjustment: 8" Bobs Action Jack
    Underwater Surveillance: Solix10 G2 Console & Solix10 G1 Bow
    Anchoring: Powerpole, Ultrex Spot Lock
    Dynamic Positioning System: Ultrex i-pilot Link


  6. Member
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    Jan 2017
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    30 minutes south of Atlanta
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    500
    #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger519VS View Post
    That feeling of being pushed into an intersection on wet roads is something I don't want to experience again
    You should own a towing business / drive a flatbed tow truck for 20 years then. (Or ANY tow truck for that matter.)

    There hasn't been a rollback invented that has enough back axle brakes to keep the front end from locking up on damp, (not even WET roads) when trying to stop at an intersection with even a small car on the bed. Load 1 up top, and another on the wheel-lift and it's game over!

    In my opinion they should outlaw a rollback on ANY truck smaller than 26,000 lbs GVW (basically a small big rig). The Super-Duty class is nothing but an accident waiting to happen.
    Later,

    Dixie Chicken

  7. Member
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    May 2012
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    Kennesaw, Georgia
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    #47
    Quote Originally Posted by jrh_67 View Post
    Got sick and tired of fixing my brakes that seemed like they were always needing something so I disconnected mine. After the trailer almost catching fire because the brakes locked up I'd just had it with the brake system and disconnected it. I've pulled many 18ft bass boats without trailer brakes and like mine much better without them. People can flame on me all they want but now I don't have to worry about sitting on the side of the road because of some stupid brake malfunction and I have no problem stopping without them. To each their own I guess but I just don't think an 18ft bass boat needs trailer brakes...
    Do you pull the trailer by putting the safety pin in the hole to disable the brakes? If so, how has the pin held up so far? I'm going to have to do that temporarily till I have a chance to get the surge brakes fixed. Just wonder how safe/durable that option is. Thanks.

  8. Member
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    #48
    Quote Originally Posted by 375VTROCKET View Post
    THAT IS A BUNCH OF BS. I can back mine in with it pluged or not it doesn't matter. Never had a problem in over 20 years.
    Are you sure that you don't have electric over hydraulics??

  9. Member
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    #49
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Dougherty View Post
    The only thing that is electric on electric brakes is a coil. This coil turns into a magnet when you apply voltage to it. These coils are sealed pretty well from water intrusion. The coil wire is insulated so there is no bare wire touching the water. The max voltage they could see is 14.8 or so depending on your settings. I think the most I have seen going to mine is 8 or so under heavy braking. Regardless, 14.8V is very low and wont short out when submerged. No need to unplug. Do your lights short out after being submerged? Ever since I changed to LED lights I do not unplug anymore when backing in. The only reason you unplug incandescent bulbs is to keep them from popping from thermal shock when they get hot and hit the colder water.
    OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
    My sealed light just crapped out on back up lights, and 1 mo. later my running/brake went.
    All I can tell you is that water and electric like each other about as much as my X wife likes me.

  10. Member
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    Nov 2013
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    #50
    Quote Originally Posted by kyduck View Post
    So I recently tried to change my brake fluid in a used boat o bought a couple years ago and figured out that the actuator is broken and not functioning. I’ve tried to get in touch with a few local shops about a repair and they have no interest and just blow me off. I’m not comfortable with it personally from the research I’ve done but might have to resort to it. It’s on a 2011 ranger z521 and I pull with a f250. Is it plausible to just keep rolling like this or should I reconsider?
    KY duck,

    As I posted before, I had the same situation as yours and I ended up replacing everything ( actuator, brake lines, entire brake assemblies for drum brakes, replace all hub seals and repacked all hubs). I bought everything from https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com (800) 628-1819, and it's not a cheap ordeal with quite of bit of time involved including a helper to bleed all the air out of the system.
    BTW, unless you have mechanical experience, get it done by someone that does.

  11. Member
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    #51
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Dougherty View Post
    The only thing that is electric on electric brakes is a coil. This coil turns into a magnet when you apply voltage to it. These coils are sealed pretty well from water intrusion. The coil wire is insulated so there is no bare wire touching the water. The max voltage they could see is 14.8 or so depending on your settings. I think the most I have seen going to mine is 8 or so under heavy braking. Regardless, 14.8V is very low and wont short out when submerged. No need to unplug. Do your lights short out after being submerged? Ever since I changed to LED lights I do not unplug anymore when backing in. The only reason you unplug incandescent bulbs is to keep them from popping from thermal shock when they get hot and hit the colder water.
    OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
    My sealed light just crapped out on back up lights, and 1 mo. later my running/brake went.
    All I can tell you is that water and electric like each other about as much as my X wife likes me.

  12. Member
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    Oaks, PA
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    #52
    Quote Originally Posted by digthemup View Post
    OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
    Read my post. The bulbs blow on boat trailer because as you're backing down the ramp you have your foot on the brake, and/or your running lights are on, heating up the bulbs. When they hit the water "POP" not from voltage but thermal shock.

    Like I said since I have switched to LED i do not unplug and never had an issue with the LED lights blowing.

  13. Member
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    #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Team Dougherty View Post
    Read my post. The bulbs blow on boat trailer because as you're backing down the ramp you have your foot on the brake, and/or your running lights are on, heating up the bulbs. When they hit the water "POP" not from voltage but thermal shock.

    Like I said since I have switched to LED i do not unplug and never had an issue with the LED lights blowing.
    That would seem to make sense, but mine are sealed units.

  14. Member
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    #54
    Quote Originally Posted by digthemup View Post
    OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
    My sealed light just crapped out on back up lights, and 1 mo. later my running/brake went.
    All I can tell you is that water and electric like each other about as much as my X wife likes me.
    Hot bulbs and non sealed electrical plug ins don't like water and traveling on rough roads or interstates will knock out sealed or non sealed bulbs.
    But I have never in 30 years of using electric brakes on a boat trailer EVER EVER had any problem with magnets, shoes, hubs or any other componets related to the electric brakes. My brakes are not electric over hydraulic they are straight electric put on by me.
    Rocket

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