Rocket
I don't get it either. Too much room for the human error factor. If you forget to unplug them before you submerge them and it it ruins the brakes what's the point. If you forget to plug back in before you get on the road you have no lights or brakes what's the point.
I'll stick with surge disc brakes for the simplicity.
The only thing that is electric on electric brakes is a coil. This coil turns into a magnet when you apply voltage to it. These coils are sealed pretty well from water intrusion. The coil wire is insulated so there is no bare wire touching the water. The max voltage they could see is 14.8 or so depending on your settings. I think the most I have seen going to mine is 8 or so under heavy braking. Regardless, 14.8V is very low and wont short out when submerged. No need to unplug. Do your lights short out after being submerged? Ever since I changed to LED lights I do not unplug anymore when backing in. The only reason you unplug incandescent bulbs is to keep them from popping from thermal shock when they get hot and hit the colder water.
I am considering Electric over Hydraulic brakes for my trailer. My Hydraulic actuator is shot and my truck is already set up for Electric brakes with a controller. anyone using this type of system? Any recomendations on what brand / size I need for a heavier than average Z7?
Thanks
Always "Huntin" the IA Bass!
Boat: Nitro Z7
Primary Propulsion Unit: 200 Optimax ProXS
Vertical Depth Propulsion Adjustment: 8" Bobs Action Jack
Underwater Surveillance: Solix10 G2 Console & Solix10 G1 Bow
Anchoring: Powerpole, Ultrex Spot Lock
Dynamic Positioning System: Ultrex i-pilot Link
You should own a towing business / drive a flatbed tow truck for 20 years then. (Or ANY tow truck for that matter.)
There hasn't been a rollback invented that has enough back axle brakes to keep the front end from locking up on damp, (not even WET roads) when trying to stop at an intersection with even a small car on the bed. Load 1 up top, and another on the wheel-lift and it's game over!
In my opinion they should outlaw a rollback on ANY truck smaller than 26,000 lbs GVW (basically a small big rig). The Super-Duty class is nothing but an accident waiting to happen.
Later,
Dixie Chicken
OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
My sealed light just crapped out on back up lights, and 1 mo. later my running/brake went.
All I can tell you is that water and electric like each other about as much as my X wife likes me.
KY duck,
As I posted before, I had the same situation as yours and I ended up replacing everything ( actuator, brake lines, entire brake assemblies for drum brakes, replace all hub seals and repacked all hubs). I bought everything from https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com (800) 628-1819, and it's not a cheap ordeal with quite of bit of time involved including a helper to bleed all the air out of the system.
BTW, unless you have mechanical experience, get it done by someone that does.
OK, why do your lights crap out at the very little water intrusion? same voltage!
My sealed light just crapped out on back up lights, and 1 mo. later my running/brake went.
All I can tell you is that water and electric like each other about as much as my X wife likes me.
Read my post. The bulbs blow on boat trailer because as you're backing down the ramp you have your foot on the brake, and/or your running lights are on, heating up the bulbs. When they hit the water "POP" not from voltage but thermal shock.
Like I said since I have switched to LED i do not unplug and never had an issue with the LED lights blowing.
Hot bulbs and non sealed electrical plug ins don't like water and traveling on rough roads or interstates will knock out sealed or non sealed bulbs.
But I have never in 30 years of using electric brakes on a boat trailer EVER EVER had any problem with magnets, shoes, hubs or any other componets related to the electric brakes. My brakes are not electric over hydraulic they are straight electric put on by me.
Rocket