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  1. #1
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    Carb terminology help with J150GLEN fast strike

    Blew a fuel pump in my 92 johnson fast strike and throughout the troubleshooting process (compression, spark, fuel filter, primer bulb/hose) I did a carb rebuild kit before the fuel pump. Replaced fuel pump with the VRO even though my oil is bypassed and has been. Boat is back to running however it is not running like it was and I am trying to figure out what I might need to do now with assumption new fuel pump is good and I have something messed up with how I put the carb bowls back together possible with the float adjustment or the jets which I never touched.

    Boat idles fine, planes out fine, but at full throttle I am short approx 15 mph than I am used to. My tach has never worked so I do not know the rpm. When full throttle can pump the bulb and get a couple more mph. There is some feel of a miss at times between 3/4-full throttle. At low idle putting it in and out of gear it seems to run better than it did before. Feels like a fuel restriction.

    Questions:
    Regarding the two fixed jets which at the point I havent touched. The online parts diagram shows the top jet as #28 Orifice and bottom as #43 idle air bleed. Is that #28 orifice considered a high speed jet? I plan on pulling them and cleaning them out. Would that be reason for top end performance issues?

    Regarding the float adjustment, I read that parallel to the gasket is good to go and when flipped upside down it should be approx 7/8-1.25". Mine hangs 1", should that be wider?

    Any other thoughts? Appreciate any options.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    When you did your carb rebuild, did you install new float bowls? If you did, did you remember to move the high speed orifices from the old float bowls to the new float bowls? They live behind the carb drain plugs. If you didn't did you make sure that they are fully seated. The float drop is fine.

  3. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #3
    And if you used the old float bowls did you sand them flat on a flat surface?
    They warp and suck air, on my parts break down the main jet is #15 and its description is: ORIFICE High Speed.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  4. Member
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    #4
    I only did the carb kit with gaskets/floats. I did not sand the bowls at all but they appear to seal with no leaks. I think I am taking them apart again tomorrow I can see if they lay flat on surface and possibly sand them a bit.

    What parts diagram do you use?
    I found: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/jo...odel=J150GLENC


    Could those orifices cause loss of top end or should I be thinking something else? I got a drill bit kit to try to clean them out a bit too.

  5. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #5
    I use Bossweb, its the dealer program from Evinrude, according to it you should have 57D orifices
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  6. Member
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    #6
    Thanks for kicking me in the head and helping me realize what is going on. Two orifices in the upper portion of the carb #5 and #19 and #15 is the high speed orifice in the lower bowl. Had to see it in the diagram to realize it and it does show 57D. The upper two control air and the lower high speed fuel? So my fast strike should be the items listed below with just "150" in the name?

    [COLOR=#FFFFFF !important]5[/COLOR]
    ORIFICE, HIGH SPEED, #57D, 150
    [COLOR=#FFFFFF !important]0322907[/COLOR]


    19
    ORIFICE, IDLE AIR BLEED, #44, 150
    0325827


    19
    ORIFICE, IDLE AIR BLEED, #40, 175
    0327745


    19
    ORIFICE, IDLE AIR BLEED, #36, 150
    0323703


    5
    ORIFICE, #28, 150 XP, GT
    0322936


    5
    ORIFICE, #39, 150
    0334568



  7. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #7
    Did you adjust the linkage and synchronize per the manual and check that all the carbs open fully?

    Is the throttle roller complete or is the plastic outer coating broken off? Very common

    Was timing moved?
    -----


    A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !

  8. Member
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    #8
    Regarding the float adjustment, I read that parallel to the gasket is good to go and when flipped upside down it should be approx 7/8-1.25". Mine hangs 1", should that be wider?

    Any other thoughts? Appreciate any options.[/QUOTE]

    Float level is set parallel to the gasket surface, gasket off. Same with the float drop. Just a thought.

  9. Member
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by SEAHORSE View Post
    Did you adjust the linkage and synchronize per the manual and check that all the carbs open fully?

    Is the throttle roller complete or is the plastic outer coating broken off? Very common

    Was timing moved?
    I have read about 'link and sync' but havent done it. Havent found a write up on exactly how that is online, I did see a video which had most of it I think. I do not have a service manual. I didnt make any adjustments to timing or the roller. I did verify that opening the throttle the carb butterflys are working at the same time and perpendicular to the carb. I will see if I can get a manual and what ever tools are needed for link and sync.

    Took apart the carbs again yesterday to look at floats and the high speed jets. Floats were good and at 1" drop. The high speed jets however were loose to the point of one falling out when dumping the gas out of the bowl. Took them out and cleaned them up and got them back in place. Running the boat today was basically the same. Good idle, good low/mid range, but high end seems to just flatten out. Still down about 12mph from before the fuel pump issue started.

    Could bad gas or gas tank vent cause something like this?