so i had a good look at the motor and rigged it enough to do a compression check which it passed. i will be buying the motor. next step is to have a look at the ficht leg, but i think i will take that as well.
so i had a good look at the motor and rigged it enough to do a compression check which it passed. i will be buying the motor. next step is to have a look at the ficht leg, but i think i will take that as well.
so i bought the 2005 etec motor and the 2002 ficht lower unit and got them in my garage last night.
i haven't dropped the bad etec lower unit yet. externally the two legs look identical.
if all goes well i will swap the shaft and shifter between the two lower units, and make sure the motor runs and the lower unit shifts before i buy some parts for it. does anyone see a problem with momentary shifting into gear on a stand to test the lower unit while running on muffs or should i use a garbage pail of water?
Muffs are fine, but you will get to know the gearcase a lot better when you change out the driveshafts.
Just don't forget to set your shift rod height to spec on the new lower before installing.
lol, nice comment. after puzzling i think i just figured out what i was missing. i may have bit off more than i was thinking. i was going by the fact that rebuilt legs are often sold without the upper shaft that this was doable.Originally Posted by gearcaseman
i know i can pop the etec driveshaft out of the bad leg with a bfh and vice grips and i know i can pull the ficht driveshaft out of the good leg the same way but unless i get lucky the keeper on the good leg will be damaged and the drive shaft will be floating
so questions i should have asked earlier:
-can the driveshaft float in there without the keeper?
-will this tool give me a better shot of pulling it without damaging it?
https://www.offshoremarineparts.com/93-13-866k.html
-is there a trick to get the damaged keeper out?
-if i do have to pull the prop shaft what special tools do i need other than the puller and pinion nut wrench?
It can, but I don't recommend you do this. This will allow a lot of vertical movement of the driveshaft, that your water pump will be absorbing and possibly damage. The upper shaft puller is always best, but if you must improvise, be sure you use vise grips or pipe wrench on the '' skinny'' part of the shaft. The trick to removing and replacing the retaining clip is removing the lower driveshaft, driving out the locking pin, and replace. You can improvise here as well with a harmonic balancer puller to pull out the rear bearing carrier. Use a 7/8'' open end wrench to hold the pinion nut while turning the upper shaft counter clockwise. Hope and pray that the pinion gear will separate from the lower shaft while jerking up on the upper shaft. The propshaft need not be removed.
thanks. turns out i cannot get that removal tool in canada very easily
i guess i can practice on the bad lower unit. if i can get a regular 7/8" wrench on the nut and use a regular harmonic puller that means i need two less tools anyway. i can sharpen the pipe wrench and see if that will turn the drive shaft off the pinion nut if i can get a wrench on it. does it matter if i scuff the skinny part of the drive shaft or should i tape it before i clamp it?
l will see how far i get.
Gonna need two pieces of all thread to thread into the bearing carrier so the harmonic puller can pull it out. Gonna need a long 7/8" wrench to get down in there and it may help to pull the reverse gear out also.
yep i will grab the ready rod tomorrow once i pull a bolt to get the thread. first i want to see if my balancer puller plate is wide enough. it's currently bolted into the flywheel as a lifting ring so not lost for once.
looking at photos of the tool online, the wrench jaws are angled straight and staggered below the shaft. maybe a crow foot socket wrench on a breaker bar will work.
if anyone has the driveshaft removal tool and would be willing to post some photos with a ruler, i can maybe get one machined locally. very interested in the diameter of the centre hole, whether it is a complete or partial circle, and if the surface of the circle that grabs the shaft is machined somehow or smooth.
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Nope not for yours. Pull one of the bolts from the keeper and use that. NO JAWS! on the RBC. 4 nuts and some large fender washers. Use two of the nuts and make them jamb nuts on each piece. Thread them into the carrier and use the center bolt on the puller to remove, easy peasy.
You're going to do some cosmetic damage to the driveshaft with a pipe wrench, but this is why you use the skinny part of the shaft. Nothing will be hurt, because the seals and water pump will be sliding over the large diameter of the shaft.
gearcaseman, do you think this flat puller tool could pull the driveshaft with the smaller gripping surface? i can get this locally.
https://www.amazon.ca/Bar-Type-Bearing-Separator-Storage-Carrying/dp/B071KK8C8Q/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=universal+puller+set &qid=1598042072&sr=8-16
so i had time to rebuild my engine stand completely to handle the weight of the 200. with that done i took it off the chain lift and finally pulled the "bad" lower unit today.
-while doing this something changed. previously the lower unit would only go into reverse, and in reverse it would bind up at the prop and turn with difficulty like it was fighting comoression.
just before i disconnected the shift rod i worked it back and forth repeatedly. i got it to distinctly shift and click into forward and reverse and you can feel a mild resistance at the prop compared to neutral when in eiether gear. but it does not turn the driveshaft in either gear and the strong resisatance in reverse i felt before before disappeared.
the driveshaft also spins very easily once the water pump came off. my instinct is the driveshaft is broken just below the bearing housing but was somehow still engaging in reverse. however i can only pull it up about 1/4" vertically by hand.
the good news is my balancer puller will fit so i will get some ready rod and pull the carrier next and see what comes out. i want to see if the pinion nut moves when i turn the driveshaft.
It does sound as if the lower driveshaft is broken, probably at the pinion bearing area. You could still shift the case into both gears by moving the propshaft slightly. The shift mechanism is independent from the driveshaft. The reason you are able to pull up slightly on the upper shaft, is because the lower and upper are still attached, and the driveshaft bearing carrier is holding it in place. Remove the 4 bolts holding the carrier and it should pull out. ( If its broken)
ok, i got the carrier and reverse gear out.
driveshaft is definitely broken. cannot tell how far up the shaft but with a wrench on the pinion nut the drive shaft spins.
so i figure now i have to get that nut loose. not sure whether to stuff rags into the gears or put it in gear and use the prop hub kit or some kind of rod passed through the cotter pin hole to hold it.
If the housing looks rebuildable, You can try this....Push the clutch dog forward and engage forward gear, put the 7/8 open end wrench on the nut, grab the propshaft with a large pipe wrench and turn counterclockwise. This will loosen the nut and hopefully allow you to complete the disassembly. You'll need a tight hold on the gearcase for this to work.
well i got it off. thanks for the tip gearcase. it worked a treat and the nut cane off. instead of a pipe wrench i used a prop hub kit over the splines with hub kit clamped with large vice grips and a 1" pipe for an extension to turn the vice grips into a breaker bar.
even with nut off i still needed vice grips to get the driveshaft out. the entire driveshaft is out and now it still won't come apart even with the roll pin out.
there was some interesting carnage under the bearing housing. what you see there in the photo is all that was down there. no shims or anything else. surprisingly the needle bearings in the housing still turn.
anyway, i think the keeper has rusted to pieces and the upper drive shaft is stuck in what is left of it inside the lower shaft. not sure if it is possible for neither shaft to actually be broken. i am afraid to use a brass mallet on the lip of the lower shaft so i am thinking i will make a wooden jig and see if i can separate them.
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Last edited by suzukidave; 08-28-2020 at 01:25 AM.
This is the perfect example of very low oil supply. The lower shaft and driveshaft bearing carrier have melted due to the heat. Whats left of the broken driveshaft has probably welded to the pinion bearing. I suggest you stop here and get a new gearcase. I doubt the housing will be rebuildable. A new case from SEI will run @ 850.00-900.00 If you try to rebuild what you have, you'll spend more than that for new parts you'll need. I applaud you for getting the case apart, that took a lot of work.
Gonna cost him a bit more Eddie, he's in Canada so it will be a bit more for him.. If his upper DS is still good he'll be able to use that and he'll also need a new H2O pump as they don't come with either.
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