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  1. #1
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    Fixed jet Fastrike idle adjustment?

    1994 Johnson faststrike 150GLERA w/ fixed idle jets
    did the sync n link last week and boat ran much better this weekend. However when in gear I do think the idle rpm is a little lower than what I’ve seen jughead suggest on other posts. It did stall out once or twice when putting it in gear. With the fixed jet carbs with no adjustment screws, are the timing notches on top of the flywheel the only way to increase the rpm? If so, adjusting the low idle arm toward the + a notch or two will raise the idle rpm?
    thanks

  2. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #2
    The jets are replaceable and they are offered in different sizes, Juggy will be by in a few to help you.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  3. Member
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    #3
    You can adjust the idle tab a notch, should raise the idle 100 RPM. Other things can cause a low idle, the thermostats can cause a problem. The motor temp must be in the operating range at idle. If they have not been changed it might be a good time to do that. You can test the temp, check at the top of the heads. The VST tank and little vapor pump is often over looked, but so important in the fuel system. Non Ethanol fuel will help, if you can get it. Your OMC service manual will be of great help with this.
    Last edited by 316jughead; 08-03-2020 at 04:29 PM.

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    #4
    Would a faulty thermostat cause the fast idle to work incorrectly? The fast idle works as it should currently. Would a thermostat cause any other issues such as bogging when accelerating if the engine isn’t warmed up correctly?

  5. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #5
    The quick start is turned off by temp on the port head temp switch or RPM reaching the shut off point of approximately 1100, if the starboard thermostat is stuck open then quick start will work just fine.

    A carb engine running cold can cause bogging, fouled plugs, poor idle.
    Last edited by ELGIN; 08-03-2020 at 04:14 PM.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

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    #6
    Thermostats were good. Put them in boiling water and they opened right up.

  7. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #7
    Then bump the idle timing like Juggy suggested.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by UKjake15 View Post
    Thermostats were good. Put them in boiling water and they opened right up.
    Did you happen to notice what color the springs were? White paint is no good, the springs should be replaced, red is OK and no color at all is the newest springs. This was a change made since your motor was new. You can check the idle timing with a timing light, just don't shine it on the sensor.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by UKjake15 View Post
    Would a faulty thermostat cause the fast idle to work incorrectly? The fast idle works as it should currently. Would a thermostat cause any other issues such as bogging when accelerating if the engine isn’t warmed up correctly?
    With a stuck open thermostat, the QuikStart will still work, it will stay on longer, until the motor temp reaches 105 degrees, or over 1100 RPM. I see you tested them, I posted this just for info.

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    #10
    Thanks everyone. The springs were either red or a little rusty with no color to them. Definitely not white however. I will try the idle timing a notch or two. I just cleaned and rebuilt the carbs and it seems to be idling low now after all the passages were cleaned out but it idling smoother than it ever has. What’s your all’s thoughts about changing out the air bleeds for smaller size ones? I see that mentioned frequently as a fix for the stalling out. Or is that more of a bandaid fix?

  11. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #11
    Thats how we fixed them back in the day.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

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    #12
    Did you all replace just the idle bleeds or the intermediate bleeds? Or both for the smaller size?

  13. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by ELGIN View Post
    Thats how we fixed them back in the day.
    Was waiting for that, been a long time and the mind don't remember some stuff so good but if I remember it was go up 4 and down 4 sizes but can't remember which ones went which way.

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    #14
    You need to know what your idle timing is and what size idle orifices are in the carbs now If the idle orifice size is changed a lot then you may need to also change the intermediates. I know that some motors needed the orifice change, I don't have much experience in changing the orifices. ChampioNman or ELGIN can help you there. I think I know what to do but I don't want you to buy a bucket of orifices.

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    Was waiting for that, been a long time and the mind don't remember some stuff so good but if I remember it was go up 4 and down 4 sizes but can't remember which ones went which way.
    Yep me too, on some we only changed the idle. smaller I think. Put your thinking cap on, I lost mine a long time ago.

  16. Moderator SEAHORSE's Avatar
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    #16
    De-carbon your engine first
    -----


    A Technical troubleshooter possessing more tools than talent !

  17. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #17
    And change your gear lube.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  18. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #18
    And grease the zercks.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  19. Member ELGIN's Avatar
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    #19
    And change the cotter pin in your prop.
    RUSTY63 in a Shiny Green Jacket.......

  20. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by ELGIN View Post
    And change the cotter pin in your prop.
    when did that bulletin come out??? I thought we still used galvanized roofing nails.

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