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  1. #1
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    Xpress X19 pad, what are they supposed to look like?

    After I posted in the props forum, one of the fine gurus suggested the prop slip for the 200 hp, 57.8 mph, 6400 rpm, 3-4" PTP and 8" setback seemed out of whack... There was a suggestion that something may be causing air to be infused in the prop area, well, this 2001 X19 has basically a small groove or tunnel right down the middle of the keel area (pad) about even where the console is. My first Xpress boat ever, so I think, well, maybe it is a way to increase air under the hull for more lift..... My assumption is it should be flat or closer to flat than it is... Am I correct? FWIW: the boat does ride nose down quite a bit at WOT and trimmed out...
    20200729_065427_HDR.jpg20200729_065459_HDR.jpg

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    #2
    Day'um!!!!!!! I ain't never been called a "guru" or "fine".

    The short answer to your question is 'yes', your pad has some SERIOUS issues ....... and I whole heartedly believe this is what's causing your issues.

    It should be relatively flat, and relatively smooth (with exception to the centerline weld). Keep in mind that you do not want that weld to be excessive, but you don't want to grind it down smooth either. Some in the past would use a material to fill in and shape their pad to make it perfectly smooth (think of it like fiberglass or body filler ...... but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called). Generally when people are having prop slip issues and/or plowing issues with a hyperlift hull, it's b/c of excessive welds along the centerline (generally causes slip due to aeration), and/or the transom to running surface transition (thus causing a wedge and forcing the nose down).

    Your hull has seen some serious wear/tear/repair in it's past. It appears that you have a massive 'hook' in your pad. That Hook is what's causing your nose to plow. It could also be adding to the prop slip as well. Also, that 'tunnel' is definately not suppose to be there, and to be honest scares the heck out of me, making me wonder what happened and how did whomever try to fix it. Just to be 100% honest with you, I've walked away from hyperlifts that had hull issues not as severe as yours. Moving forward and how to correct it properly, I would search the internet for the above mentioned 'filling in-&-smoothing' method OR find a great aluminum repair place and turn them loose (just know that's $$$). There was a guy on here that had a red X19 w/ 2.6L HPDI 200 that did this (the 'filling in-n-smoothing' process). For the life of me I can't remember his screen name. The most cost efficient option is the other option and that is to just live with it. As long as the boat does not leak, catches fish,and you're good with that, then just roll with it. ....... but who buys a X19/200 to watch 150's pass them all day ...... not I.

    Side note ...... here's a few of my Xpress projects from years gone by. Miss that first one and my X19 some. ....... I guess that's where/why I sometimes sound like I've been there with these aggravating azz things. LOL
    The First Love Affair Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=93730
    H50 DB Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=312937
    X19 Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=547323

    Good Luck man!!!!

    Hope it Helps.
    -391v
    Last edited by Ranger391v; 07-29-2020 at 02:37 PM.
    '09 Ranger Z520 Silverado Edition / '09 Evinrude ETEC 250 HO
    '15 Xpress HD16DBX / Merc 59ci

  3. Arkansas Rally Moderator Arkyarcher's Avatar
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    Gene Wilson

    2000 Xpress X19 Mercury 200
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    Two wrongs don't make a right , but three lefts do.

  4. Member alli ss's Avatar
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    #4
    Just think though, any of the other tin boats sold right now would have sunk on about 99% of those dings

    xpress x19, 200ho G2, aluminum sawtooth cut prop, paper sack tackle storage, ugly stik pro team, color c-lector

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger391v View Post
    Day'um!!!!!!! I ain't never been called a "guru" or "fine".

    The short answer to your question is 'yes', your pad has some SERIOUS issues ....... and I whole heartedly believe this is what's causing your issues.

    It should be relatively flat, and relatively smooth (with exception to the centerline weld). Keep in mind that you do not want that weld to be excessive, but you don't want to grind it down smooth either. Some in the past would use a material to fill in and shape their pad to make it perfectly smooth (think of it like fiberglass or body filler ...... but I can't for the life of me remember what it was called). Generally when people are having prop slip issues and/or plowing issues with a hyperlift hull, it's b/c of excessive welds along the centerline (generally causes slip due to aeration), and/or the transom to running surface transition (thus causing a wedge and forcing the nose down).

    Your hull has seen some serious wear/tear/repair in it's past. It appears that you have a massive 'hook' in your pad. That Hook is what's causing your nose to plow. It could also be adding to the prop slip as well. Also, that 'tunnel' is definately not suppose to be there, and to be honest scares the heck out of me, making me wonder what happened and how did whomever try to fix it. Just to be 100% honest with you, I've walked away from hyperlifts that had hull issues not as severe as yours. Moving forward and how to correct it properly, I would search the internet for the above mentioned 'filling in-&-smoothing' method OR find a great aluminum repair place and turn them loose (just know that's $$$). There was a guy on here that had a red X19 w/ 2.6L HPDI 200 that did this (the 'filling in-n-smoothing' process). For the life of me I can't remember his screen name. The most cost efficient option is the other option and that is to just live with it. As long as the boat does not leak, catches fish,and you're good with that, then just roll with it. ....... but who buys a X19/200 to watch 150's pass them all day ...... not I.

    Side note ...... here's a few of my Xpress projects from years gone by. Miss that first one and my X19 some. ....... I guess that's where/why I sometimes sound like I've been there with these aggravating azz things. LOL
    The First Love Affair Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=93730
    H50 DB Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=312937
    X19 Project
    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=547323

    Good Luck man!!!!

    Hope it Helps.
    -391v
    Hey man, if the shoe fits??? I truly appreciate the experience and wisdom from you guys. So I actually have a River-pro for my main boat. So, I've seen my share of dings and dents in other river rigs, and they kept running. This rig is a project my son and I took on. I did get a heck of a deal on the X19 in AR this past Dec. When I first looked at that area of the pad, it didn't look damaged, punched to me, or as though it had major repair worketc...compared to what I am used to seeing on river boats.... But who knows. In any case, I do know some damn good welders and I have patience, it floats, no leaks, does fish great. All good. Appreciate the links and advice man...

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Arkyarcher View Post
    Perfect, thanks!!!

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by alli ss View Post
    Just think though, any of the other tin boats sold right now would have sunk on about 99% of those dings
    Like I said earlier, I've seen way worse on some rigs,.. and to be honest, I've driven my River-pro in places most people would crap their pants... But I agree, with most of the rigs these days, not so sure they would take a "good" hit so we'll.
    Last edited by Smallie_Hawgin; 07-30-2020 at 07:05 AM.

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    #8
    RiverPro jet boats are bad azz! I've only seen picture and YouTube of them. And I know what you mean, you guys (river jet guys) are used to small dents/dings not being that big of a deal. I've heard some guys with jet's say they don't get worried about their hulls until it starts looking like a washboard. LOL Here lately I've had some kind of fascination with jet drive outboards and trying to see if they would work better for me. It's amazing how little information is on the web about this stuff (or at least that I've been able to find). Sadly half of our state would be perfect for one it seems, and the other half not so much ...... and I live right on the transition line between rock/sand and shallow flats full of aquatic vegetation.

    Anyway, I don't want to side track your thread. That link that 'Arkarcher' posted had the dude I was thinking of ...... 'Miker2702'. He's got a Project Thread somewhere on BBC Xpress board (YEARS ago) that details out what he did. Keep in mind too that he was not filling in major areas, but rather he was just basically blueprinting his hull to smooth it out for those last few MPH. I know there are some products out there that are liquid/paste that you can mix together that harden like steel. I'm not fluent enough on them to know the details other than they do exist.

    As far as aluminum repair work, I've seen guys weld pads on the bottom of duck boat hulls that were never intended to be more than a mod-v hull ...... and it sounds like you live in an area used to repairing rock damaged boats since you have a RiverPro ...... thus getting it properly repaired might be a very good option for you. Depending on what the guy doing the repair sees, but as long as you can get a long enough section of clear/clean-weld-free zone in front of that prop, you should be GTG and start seeing better performance numbers.
    '09 Ranger Z520 Silverado Edition / '09 Evinrude ETEC 250 HO
    '15 Xpress HD16DBX / Merc 59ci

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Ranger391v View Post
    RiverPro jet boats are bad azz! I've only seen picture and YouTube of them. And I know what you mean, you guys (river jet guys) are used to small dents/dings not being that big of a deal. I've heard some guys with jet's say they don't get worried about their hulls until it starts looking like a washboard. LOL Here lately I've had some kind of fascination with jet drive outboards and trying to see if they would work better for me. It's amazing how little information is on the web about this stuff (or at least that I've been able to find). Sadly half of our state would be perfect for one it seems, and the other half not so much ...... and I live right on the transition line between rock/sand and shallow flats full of aquatic vegetation.

    Anyway, I don't want to side track your thread. That link that 'Arkarcher' posted had the dude I was thinking of ...... 'Miker2702'. He's got a Project Thread somewhere on BBC Xpress board (YEARS ago) that details out what he did. Keep in mind too that he was not filling in major areas, but rather he was just basically blueprinting his hull to smooth it out for those last few MPH. I know there are some products out there that are liquid/paste that you can mix together that harden like steel. I'm not fluent enough on them to know the details other than they do exist.

    As far as aluminum repair work, I've seen guys weld pads on the bottom of duck boat hulls that were never intended to be more than a mod-v hull ...... and it sounds like you live in an area used to repairing rock damaged boats since you have a RiverPro ...... thus getting it properly repaired might be a very good option for you. Depending on what the guy doing the repair sees, but as long as you can get a long enough section of clear/clean-weld-free zone in front of that prop, you should be GTG and start seeing better performance numbers.
    We'll see. I may try to see about modifying the existing "tunnel" a bit from the top side first. Then see about smoothing out the remainder with various epoxy, and/or bond type material.
    As far as jet running... Yeah, it's a blast for sure. If you ever come up this way (Central MN), I'd be happy to get you out for some truly great river Smallies. Just a taste of some runs...... :)


    Thanks again for all the insight and advice!!!
    Last edited by Smallie_Hawgin; 07-30-2020 at 09:59 PM. Reason: Added details

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    #10
    Ranger gave you some of the best advise. Alot of these boats do not go far enough on the bunks and the few inches they stick out will cause the bunks to hook the hull at the back. I straightened mine then adjusted the front jack so the boat went all the way on the bunks. My pad on my boat needs work and tiger hair is what i normally use but I run canada and get into alot of rocks and skip beaver dams so it would be useless in my case. The pad looks ugly but still runs out decent. Pay close attention to your welds and smooth the ones on the pad. Don't get too nuts on the outer strakes or you may cause proposing. Cj
    2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by CJ1 View Post
    Ranger gave you some of the best advise. Alot of these boats do not go far enough on the bunks and the few inches they stick out will cause the bunks to hook the hull at the back. I straightened mine then adjusted the front jack so the boat went all the way on the bunks. My pad on my boat needs work and tiger hair is what i normally use but I run canada and get into alot of rocks and skip beaver dams so it would be useless in my case. The pad looks ugly but still runs out decent. Pay close attention to your welds and smooth the ones on the pad. Don't get too nuts on the outer strakes or you may cause proposing. Cj
    Thanks sir, appreciate the additional info!

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    #12
    PM sent Smallie

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    #13
    Well, filled a significant portion of the "tunnel" we had with Bondo glass... It's not perfect (yet), but an amazing performance change so far. I'm no auto body guy, but got her smoothed out a bit and nose runs quite a bit higher now. Spray was in front of console pre, and post is behind driver seat. Speed hasn't changed considerably yet, but still waiting on 25", 4 blade. Was able to run the jack plate nearly 2" higher than previously.. good enough for now. We may try to finish her out a bit over the winter. Thanks for all the tips and advice.

  14. Member MIKER2702's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Smallie_Hawgin View Post
    Well, filled a significant portion of the "tunnel" we had with Bondo glass... It's not perfect (yet), but an amazing performance change so far. I'm no auto body guy, but got her smoothed out a bit and nose runs quite a bit higher now. Spray was in front of console pre, and post is behind driver seat. Speed hasn't changed considerably yet, but still waiting on 25", 4 blade. Was able to run the jack plate nearly 2" higher than previously.. good enough for now. We may try to finish her out a bit over the winter. Thanks for all the tips and advice.
    Yeah I remember the spray changing greatly.
    Like a different boat.
    Wish I could have flipped the boat would have been much easier.
    Weld down center just means more speed possible.
    1998 bullet 20xd 2006 225 sport xs

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Smallie_Hawgin View Post
    Well, filled a significant portion of the "tunnel" we had with Bondo glass... It's not perfect (yet), but an amazing performance change so far. I'm no auto body guy, but got her smoothed out a bit and nose runs quite a bit higher now. Spray was in front of console pre, and post is behind driver seat. Speed hasn't changed considerably yet, but still waiting on 25", 4 blade. Was able to run the jack plate nearly 2" higher than previously.. good enough for now. We may try to finish her out a bit over the winter. Thanks for all the tips and advice.
    Just remember to seal it up with a good sealer, one little nick and the filler will pop on you when it gets wet. I am resisting working mine because of that reason. Hey, I always thought pads were supposed to look like golf balls!! Just fixed the pad and lip that had a few chips on my buddies Blazer. Damage was very minimal but once above 70mph it just didn't feel right. now that it is fixed he says boat is stable at 80+ again. little stuff really has a effect with these hulls at speed. CJ
    2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by CJ1 View Post
    Just remember to seal it up with a good sealer, one little nick and the filler will pop on you when it gets wet. I am resisting working mine because of that reason. Hey, I always thought pads were supposed to look like golf balls!! Just fixed the pad and lip that had a few chips on my buddies Blazer. Damage was very minimal but once above 70mph it just didn't feel right. now that it is fixed he says boat is stable at 80+ again. little stuff really has a effect with these hulls at speed. CJ
    Thanks man. Appreciate the tip! We'll get it figured out, hopefully sooner than later.

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    #17
    Anyone want to share a pic of their "bottom"?? Sorry, I couldn't resist. Seriously, looking for pic (or several) specifically of the area where the hull point (where most place a keel guard) transitions to the "pad". On our project rig, that's pretty close to the console location. I'd appreciate it. Our rig is a 2001 X19. Did the design change any time?? TIA.
    Last edited by Smallie_Hawgin; 08-17-2020 at 10:07 AM.

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    #18
    I'll get one in a bit.
    2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.

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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by CJ1 View Post
    I'll get one in a bit.
    How long a "a bit" in Michigan? Still looking for what the start and middle of the pad area looks like on a similar year model X19. Ours hes obviously had a "few" bumps in the past.

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    #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Smallie_Hawgin View Post
    How long a "a bit" in Michigan? Still looking for what the start and middle of the pad area looks like on a similar year model X19. Ours hes obviously had a "few" bumps in the past.
    A bit is quite a while when you are computer handicapped!! Please send me your e mail or a number I could text to. CJ
    2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.

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