Master Kill Switch

[Mark Weare]

1B937241

What is the general consensus on using a battery disconnect switch on the power (+) battery cable, any issues? Installing a new power buss to clean up battery connections and want to also switch the motor battery cable while I am at it. Not sure if the motor has to have power all the time or if it's OK to kill it when not in use, my only question really is of that's OK for the ECM or not.

Thanks.
Mark

[Savage]

Killing power to the PCM wont cause a problem. Cut-off switches are ok if they are sized properly and are a quality unit. Cheap undersized switches cause a lot of problems.

[Mark Weare]

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll be using the disconnect installed by Triton in the factory, believe it's rated for 12V 275A continuous so that should do the trick.

Have a good one.

[thommo59]

My factory switch on my 2018 Triton is rubbish and just by passed It and tested today. No low voltage alarm, starts better, perfect. I’ve just ordered a new one 1500 amps for 10 seconds at 12volts

[Savage]

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll be using the disconnect installed by Triton in the factory, believe it's rated for 12V 275A continuous so that should do the trick.

Have a good one.

Mark here's what I did.....

I use a switched breaker on the trolling motor batteries, for isolating the trolling motor, during charging.
I also have ALL of my ELECTRONICS running through a separate fuse panel, which has its main power controlled by a relay.

[SilverFox579]

Thanks for the confirmation. I'll be using the disconnect installed by Triton in the factory, believe it's rated for 12V 275A continuous so that should do the trick.

Have a good one.

You really need to know the cranking rating more so than the switch's continuous rating as they are not the same and the cranking rating needs to equal or exceed engine minimum cranking specification.

Example, simplest Blue Sea ON/OFF switch, 6004, is rated for 300A continuous, 500A intermittent, and 900A cranking (up to 30secs).

I have not been able to locate the same information for Guest or Perko battery switches, only continuous and intermittent.

My boat is wired just like Savage's with the engine cables direct to battery.

[Mark Weare]

I have a Blue Seas panel with negative buss ran through a breaker at my cranking battery and a + power switch at my console. This runs all of my electronics which is 4 Helix 10's, two nmea gauges, two ethernet boxes, mega 360 and other Bird accessories. That's all very neat and orderly under my console.

At the cranking battery (2150 pulse amps, 1370 MCA, 230 RC 100Ah) I have the boat wiring connections such as memory, fuel sending unit, main power cable, jackplate, two Talons, charger connections etc. Too many connections on one terminal, looks ugly and is an issue waiting to happen.

I've tried the Johnny Ray terminal's, not a fan of those and similar product's, still too many connections in one confined area for my liking.

I want a neat, orderly battery area, makes for simpler diagnostics, maintenance and longer life.

The specs I found guy's for the switch was 275 continuous, 455 intermittent and 1250 momentary. If I can find a better switch, I'll buy it without concern. Thanks for that heads up, I'll be sure to get the best I can get there.

So I will be installing a Blue Seas dualbus plus bar. It's rated for 150 amps so I will leave the 250 ProXS connected directly to the battery terminals as a result. The rest will feed from the buss bar which will go through the disconnect.

Appreciate all the input, love talking boat s#”+ LoL.

Thanks gents!