Thread: surge brakes

Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691

    surge brakes

    I have a brake dragging getting the wheel hot on a ranger trail single axle. Not a brake guy. Can somebody tell me where to start. Thanks

  2. Member AirForceAngler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Highland, IL
    Posts
    8,593
    #2
    Start with the wheel cylinder if drum brakes or the caliper if disk brakes. Something is not relieving the pressure or is stuck. From there, go to the soft lines, maybe one has collapsed. Does the other side work at all?
    __________________________________________________ _____________
    2005 Lund Rebel SS 1650 w/25 HP Merc 4-stroke
    USAF 1985 - 2006 NKAWTG!

  3. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691
    #3
    yeah, the oyher side works fine. Thanks for the reply.

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691
    #4
    They are disk brakes

  5. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Alliance, Ohio
    Posts
    31,454
    #5
    Most likely the piston is sticking in the caliper. Just to double check, push the release lever under the trailer tongue and see if that helps. (You do make sure that the tongue is fully extended before you unhook and also push that release lever each time you hook up, don't you?)
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  6. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691
    #6
    No, I have not. I will try that. Thanks for the help guy's.

  7. Member Jeff Hahn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Alliance, Ohio
    Posts
    31,454
    #7
    Pushing the lever under the tongue releases the brake if it is the least bit applied. Making sure that the tongue is pulled all of the way out when you unhook will make sure that there's no hydraulic pressure on the brakes while the trailer is parked.
    "The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691
    #8
    ok, thanks Jeff. I will also check the caliper.

  9. Member cwilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Homestead, FL
    Posts
    11,275
    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by zbasser View Post
    I have a brake dragging getting the wheel hot on a ranger trail single axle. Not a brake guy. Can somebody tell me where to start. Thanks
    I just had the same problem. The wheel got so hot, the bearing cap came loose. I was 600 miles away from home. I just ordered 2 new TDE brake calipers. I will be installing them tomorrow. I will be going through the whole brake system on my trailer.
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

  10. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Benton, Ky
    Posts
    691
    #10
    Good luck. I hope you get it going soon. I ordered new calipers today. At least I got home with it.

  11. Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Insomnia, near Seaford Delaware
    Posts
    35,626
    #11
    Some brake pads fall apart. Pieces can get caught between the caliper and rotor and cause heat. I believe there is a requirement for removable Loctite on the bolt that holds the caliper to the axle, that bolt can come loose and the caliper can "lean" on the rotor causing heat. If there is too much play in the bearing it can cause issues, but that is rare.

  12. Member cwilt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Homestead, FL
    Posts
    11,275
    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by zbasser View Post
    Good luck. I hope you get it going soon. I ordered new calipers today. At least I got home with it.
    Just gonna up date my issues...

    Replaced both brake calipers and pads. Attempted to bleed RT side first. No go! The actuator master cylinder would not pump fluid. So, ordered new actuator. Actuator came in Thursday and installed same day. I primed the cylinder today and bled the RT side caliper till clear fluid came out of the bleeder hose. Now when i tried to bleed the LT side no fluid comes out. I can feel the hose pressuring. I removed the banjo fitting... still no fluid. Next i removed the line from banjo, still no fluid. I stuck a small allen key into the hose and fluid shot out. Tried to clean the hose out but no go. I think the hose is collapsed inside the line. I need a brake hose from the LT caliper to the tee which is located on the RT side of the trailer. It dont end $$$! On a good note i tested the solenoid with a 9V battery an clicks real nice!
    2008 Ranger 178VX
    150 Yamaha V-max

    GO Fins!!!

  13. mikesxpress
    Guest
    #13
    Feel your pain. Boat trailer design & fabrication is last thing on any of the OEM's lists. It's just a necessary evil to get a boat off the lot. Take your brake lines to NAPA or an actual brake shop and have them fab braided lines as replacements. Flush/bleed every 2-3 years and that eliminates most problems.