I have a brake dragging getting the wheel hot on a ranger trail single axle. Not a brake guy. Can somebody tell me where to start. Thanks
I have a brake dragging getting the wheel hot on a ranger trail single axle. Not a brake guy. Can somebody tell me where to start. Thanks
Start with the wheel cylinder if drum brakes or the caliper if disk brakes. Something is not relieving the pressure or is stuck. From there, go to the soft lines, maybe one has collapsed. Does the other side work at all?
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2005 Lund Rebel SS 1650 w/25 HP Merc 4-stroke
USAF 1985 - 2006 NKAWTG!
yeah, the oyher side works fine. Thanks for the reply.
They are disk brakes
Most likely the piston is sticking in the caliper. Just to double check, push the release lever under the trailer tongue and see if that helps. (You do make sure that the tongue is fully extended before you unhook and also push that release lever each time you hook up, don't you?)
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
No, I have not. I will try that. Thanks for the help guy's.
Pushing the lever under the tongue releases the brake if it is the least bit applied. Making sure that the tongue is pulled all of the way out when you unhook will make sure that there's no hydraulic pressure on the brakes while the trailer is parked.
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
ok, thanks Jeff. I will also check the caliper.
2008 Ranger 178VX
150 Yamaha V-max
GO Fins!!!
Good luck. I hope you get it going soon. I ordered new calipers today. At least I got home with it.
Some brake pads fall apart. Pieces can get caught between the caliper and rotor and cause heat. I believe there is a requirement for removable Loctite on the bolt that holds the caliper to the axle, that bolt can come loose and the caliper can "lean" on the rotor causing heat. If there is too much play in the bearing it can cause issues, but that is rare.
Just gonna up date my issues...
Replaced both brake calipers and pads. Attempted to bleed RT side first. No go! The actuator master cylinder would not pump fluid. So, ordered new actuator. Actuator came in Thursday and installed same day. I primed the cylinder today and bled the RT side caliper till clear fluid came out of the bleeder hose. Now when i tried to bleed the LT side no fluid comes out. I can feel the hose pressuring. I removed the banjo fitting... still no fluid. Next i removed the line from banjo, still no fluid. I stuck a small allen key into the hose and fluid shot out. Tried to clean the hose out but no go. I think the hose is collapsed inside the line. I need a brake hose from the LT caliper to the tee which is located on the RT side of the trailer. It dont end $$$! On a good note i tested the solenoid with a 9V battery an clicks real nice!
2008 Ranger 178VX
150 Yamaha V-max
GO Fins!!!
Feel your pain. Boat trailer design & fabrication is last thing on any of the OEM's lists. It's just a necessary evil to get a boat off the lot. Take your brake lines to NAPA or an actual brake shop and have them fab braided lines as replacements. Flush/bleed every 2-3 years and that eliminates most problems.